Performance motor feels less powerful than stock?!
74 351w block bored .040 over with 1.7 RR in GT-40 heads, Crane 444232 cam and LT headers.
Well it seems to me that this motor should have a little more "pep in its step". NOT LESS The only difference between the two motors so far is exhaust volume... This motor sounds bada$$ but it really has nothing to show for it. Barely spins the 33's on wet blacktop. The stock motor could light one side up on dry pavement and leave a strip 50' long.
IDK whats going on here. Maybe the motor isnt "awake" yet. its got almost 1000 miles on it so far... The timing is set at 12*, so i know i cant advance it anymore. Im using autolite 764 copper plugs for a 93 mustange GT. Plug wires are just autolites. I bumped up the fuel pressure and nothing changed. Its set at 45psi with vac. Stock is what? 37psi? should i try 50psi or so? when you step on the gas, the motor really doesnt rev high like it should. kinda takes off slowly and then jumps in the RPMs. Any thoughts?
__________________ Guzzy
1989 F250 Custom
351W with Crane 444232 Cam, 1.7RR in GT40 heads, summit shorties (waiting on Pacesetter LTs)
Isn't the fastest thing, but we will pull your house down
I would put the fuel pressure back to stock. Your cam appears to be designed for your application so I would expect some decent low end power. Your heads are a good step in the right direction. Now you have found out what most have gone through with the EFI 5.8L: the intake sucks. You have increased the airflow potential from the heads through the exhaust, but you are still stuck with the same intake "straw". The 5.8L EFI truck intake is not near as good of a design as the 5.0L.
Before going overboard, do the basics. check for codes, check vacuum, check vacuum lines, look for anything left unplugged. Assuming your ECU is speed density it may take awhile for the long term fuel trims to kick in. But with 1000 miles on it, you would think it may have compensated by now. But then again you did have the EGR problem....
I thought the intake on a 5.0 were too large and by having those, the motor suffers low rpm torque. Thats what this motor was built for. And, as stated the truckis SD and with these upgrades, the motor should have about 300hp or so. I was told this was all the stock injectors could handle. Thats why i had to get the adj FRP to compensate for the injectors. I may have to get a wideband 02... there pretty expensive and i really dont have the money right now.
__________________ Guzzy
1989 F250 Custom
351W with Crane 444232 Cam, 1.7RR in GT40 heads, summit shorties (waiting on Pacesetter LTs)
Isn't the fastest thing, but we will pull your house down
That motor should be WAY stronger than stock.. I know mine was. You do have the spout plug installed and you verified the ignition is advancing with the timing light?
P.S. What rpms are you seeing when you floor it?
__________________
Paul (Conan) O'Brien
1990 F150 4x4 XLT X-Cab 5.0, 3.55LS, Comp XE264HR-14, Flowtech LT's to 3" single, FRPP Mass Air Conversion, TweecerRT with BE, Innovate LC-1 wideband O2
1996 Kawasaki ZX11D w D&D 4into1 and jet kit. 550lbs, 150hp.
Two different animals 5.0 and the 5.8. The 5.0 is a good intake and as noted by some it may be a little too large. The 5.8 intake on the other hand is not good for much of anything. Your are correct about your stock injectors capable of ~300HP.
Overall you have a decent package. I still will tell you the 5.8L truck intake is going to be your bottleneck. But you should have some good low end power. Something else is amiss here. Once you find that issue your bottom end will improve. But you will still have not realized your true potential with that 5.8L intake.
The truck holds steady at about 1750-2000 rpms, then climbs from there. When this happens, I hear a "pop" noise from the driver side. Not quite sure what that is.
And yes, the timing mark moves with the timing light on it when throttle is applied.
Has it always done this since your rebuild or did it start recently? I asked before what your vacuum reading at idle was. It would be good to check your fuel pressure too when trying to accelerate. Base timing set with the SPOUT out?
Has it always done this since your rebuild or did it start recently? I asked before what your vacuum reading at idle was. It would be good to check your fuel pressure too when trying to accelerate. Base timing set with the SPOUT out?
It had always done this since i put the motor in. I didnt want to get on it too much when I first started driving it, bt now that I am starting to loosen in up, i drive it harder and notice it more and more that its all sound and no TQ. The timing was set with the spout disconnected. I am foing to get another fuel pressure gague that i can hook up in the cab. There is one on the rail, but i cannot see it through the hood
I have rigged up a few different solutions over the years for the same reason. Last time I only latched the hood part way, ran the gauge and hose under the wiper. It worked for the few minutes I needed to see the gauge. Please use your best judgment for your situation. Your results may vary. Personally I figured it was safer than spraying gasoline inside the cab of something bad happened. I never got over 25MPH, so I also felt confident with the hood latched in the 1st position instead of fully closed.
The truck holds steady at about 1750-2000 rpms, then climbs from there.
That doesn't sound right, from a dead stop in drive the motor should smoothly ramp up through the rpms in each gear.. no hanging, and it should pull harder and harder all the way to 4500-5000rpm or whatever rpm the trans shifts at.
What trans is in this thing anyway?
__________________
Paul (Conan) O'Brien
1990 F150 4x4 XLT X-Cab 5.0, 3.55LS, Comp XE264HR-14, Flowtech LT's to 3" single, FRPP Mass Air Conversion, TweecerRT with BE, Innovate LC-1 wideband O2
1996 Kawasaki ZX11D w D&D 4into1 and jet kit. 550lbs, 150hp.
You can put a permenent gauge in the cab , there good to have so you can moniter your fuel pressure . Just use an isolater on it before it goes thru the fire wall so you have no gas in the cab ...Lew
Or get an electric gauge.. doesn't have to be an Autometer anything will do.
Something strange going on with that drivetrain too.. a mysterious bang when accelerating can't be good.
__________________
Paul (Conan) O'Brien
1990 F150 4x4 XLT X-Cab 5.0, 3.55LS, Comp XE264HR-14, Flowtech LT's to 3" single, FRPP Mass Air Conversion, TweecerRT with BE, Innovate LC-1 wideband O2
1996 Kawasaki ZX11D w D&D 4into1 and jet kit. 550lbs, 150hp.
With the set up you have it should pull good . Something is very wrong . Are you sure you have the cam timing right , on your last thread we talked about it and it seamed to me that you were not sure if you had the cam and crank gears lined up good when you put the chain on ??? I never heard if you checked it ??... Lew
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The only difference between the two motors so far is exhaust volume... This motor sounds bada$$ but it really has nothing to show for it. Barely spins the 33's on wet blacktop. The stock motor could light one side up on dry pavement and leave a strip 50' long. 
