Just to elaborate on the "putting the pinion nut back where it was" idea; it's a bad idea. If you replace the pinion seal and don't know how tight the nut should be, consider the fact that the bearings have probably worn and the nut may have backed so. The pinion bearings like to run snug and using a torque wrench the check "rolling torque" when there are no torque specs for a pinion in a vehicle full of grease the best method (vs counting the threads) is to preferably get a new nut and run it down until there is a noticable drag on the pinion. The crush sleeve will spring back a few thousandths after being relieved of the original crush and the slack hasn't been taken up by the worn bearings so in effect you already have a new crush sleeve in there. This in conjunction with the new nut will assure a secure unit and a proper preload on the bearings. I have seen pinions with so much drag on them they were hard to turn by hand (after thousands of miles) and they worked perfectly so the torque is not that critical but you do need some drag on the bearings.
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Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
Just to elaborate on the "putting the pinion nut back where it was" idea; it's a bad idea. If you replace the pinion seal and don't know how tight the nut should be, consider the fact that the bearings have probably worn and the nut may have backed so. The pinion bearings like to run snug and using a torque wrench the check "rolling torque" when there are no torque specs for a pinion in a vehicle full of grease the best method (vs counting the threads) is to preferably get a new nut and run it down until there is a noticable drag on the pinion. The crush sleeve will spring back a few thousandths after being relieved of the original crush and the slack hasn't been taken up by the worn bearings so in effect you already have a new crush sleeve in there. This in conjunction with the new nut will assure a secure unit and a proper preload on the bearings. I have seen pinions with so much drag on them they were hard to turn by hand (after thousands of miles) and they worked perfectly so the torque is not that critical but you do need some drag on the bearings.
GREAT information, thanks Greg! What is the rational used in the recommendation for using a NEW pinion nut? I can see IF it is a nylon insert style nut. I was an aircraft mechanic in the AF and had MANY nuts that were 1 time use, mostly all had the nylon insert tyhat would loose it's grip ( so to speak) if you were to reuse it. But we were working on critical aircraft components.
__________________ Jeff Reichel 03 F250 V10 King Ranch Crewcab, Mildly Modded Daily Driver
Palmer, ALASKA CHRIST for LIFE! Phil 4:8
GREAT information, thanks Greg! What is the rational used in the recommendation for using a NEW pinion nut? I can see IF it is a nylon insert style nut. I was an aircraft mechanic in the AF and had MANY nuts that were 1 time use, mostly all had the nylon insert tyhat would loose it's grip ( so to speak) if you were to reuse it. But we were working on critical aircraft components.
Many pinion nuts are the self locking type. Just added insurance, you probably wouldn't need it.
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Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
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