Alright, so 4 months ago I bought this F-150 4WD 300I6 5SPD, It leaked like a sieve. Naturally the First thing I did was replace the oil pan gasket. That didn't stop the leak, it just wasn't leaking from the pan gasket anymore. So I replaced the valve-cover gasket. The leak got smaller and then was isolated to the where the engine meets the transmission. Great, a rear main seal. So I went through all of the BS involved in replaceing that, I also did some other things while I was at it, like shifter bushings and a new oil pan. So I get done with that and whatta'ya-know the little bustard still has a leak coming from where engine meets transmission. I was absolutely, positively 100% certain that I did the rear main correctly, no worries there. So then I degreased the engine and srubbed it until there was no grime left on it. Then I noticed a runnel of oil coming from the rear half of the cover plate that goes onto the side of the block behind the distributor and the coil. Where do I get a seal for that? What is it called? About what would it cost me to get that fixed in a proffesional shop? I have recently been forced to do a lot of my own maintenance and I am very good at it... I just hate doing it too much to describe. The best thing about having coin is not what you can buy, but what you can pay someone else to do for you. Not that I have an abundace of coin at the moment, it would just be nice.
Don't know the part number etc, but that's the lifter gallery cover. The hydraulic lifters are hiding in there.
Congrats on your efforts and results. I just used a sheet of cardboard and a rock for my leaks. They are all sealed now, though, as sodium silicate seals up reeeeeeaaaal good.
Don't know the part number etc, but that's the lifter gallery cover. The hydraulic lifters are hiding in there.
Congrats on your efforts and results. I just used a sheet of cardboard and a rock for my leaks. They are all sealed now, though, as sodium silicate seals up reeeeeeaaaal good.
Huh? You mean you plastered your leaks from the outside? Or basically put cement in your oil?
I've never, ever heard of that
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1991 Bronco; 4.9L; Mazda 5 speed; BW1356, 8.8 open rear; 44TTB open front, 3.55; daily driver
1985 F-250 4x4; 300; C6; BW1345, Ford sterling semi float posi rear; 44HD TTB open front; 3.55; runs
1979 F-250 4x4; 400, NP435; NP205; Dana 60 full float open rear; Dana 44HD open front, project truck
Ah yes,the agony of oil leaks! There is a good lesson here,clean the engine first and find out for sure where the little buggers are coming from.It's a little work,but so is spinning your wheels taking things apart twice.An ounce of hot oil blown down across an engine can look like it's leaking everywhere.That lifter cover shouldn't be too bad of a job,but watch your torque specs,it's kind of like a valve cover only worse.At least you know what shape your pan and gasket and rear seal are in,and that's a good thing.
As to that... I knew the rear main and oil pan were leaking. So they had to go anyway. I was just hoping that would take care if it. I may have to scrub that part of the block again as all I did in my initial cleaning was to remove the wet oil on the block, I still have layers of scunge to get through. I'm using this degreaser called Purple Power. Alkaline, but it seems to work and it was cheap.
Oh ok. I didn't know the cash for clunkers cars were being systematically seized. Seems like a waste. Why not just order all those vehicles immediately recycled rather than go through all that trouble?
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1991 Bronco; 4.9L; Mazda 5 speed; BW1356, 8.8 open rear; 44TTB open front, 3.55; daily driver
1985 F-250 4x4; 300; C6; BW1345, Ford sterling semi float posi rear; 44HD TTB open front; 3.55; runs
1979 F-250 4x4; 400, NP435; NP205; Dana 60 full float open rear; Dana 44HD open front, project truck
Yes ,91bronc300,They don't want anyone to reuse or make additional (illegal) money off those engines,once the go through the crusher or bailer,who knows if the motor was in there.And yes,I think it's a shame too,almost as big of shame as not designating the program to apply to new USA made vehicles with a high percentage of USA parts in them.We put a lot of Asians to work.
Now,back to the thread.
Yes,cleaning can be a bear,sometimes the only good way to get those heavy layers of grunge off,is with a putty knife.Gunk gets expensive.I used to get Gunk SC by the quart and it would make 5 gallons of engine cleaner when mixed with kerosene or mineral spirts,but I don't know if they even have it available anymore.I remember about 30yrs ago,I took a filthy Pontiac to the car wash and blasted the engine.It cleaned it pretty good,but it displaced most of the grunge onto the engine compartment and me!Good luck with it and when it's done,it will be much easier to work on.
I have combed all over the net, and I can't find a new Pushrod Cover, only the gasket. I need the Cover, the six bolts and the gasket. I can't find anyone who sells them.
I know you can get them, but I'm not sure where. Why do you need a new cover?
You could probably find one in a local junkyard if yours is bent or something. It's in a very low risk area, so it should be easy to find one in great shape, as long as it wasn't over-torqued.
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4bbl Holley 390 w/ Offenhauser DP intake. 4 speed Manual w/OD. K&N air filter, EFI manifolds, 2.5" exhaust.
3.00 rear end and 2000 RPMs @ 80mph!
They may have them, or may know where you can get one if you write them.
I'd still hit up a junk yard though. Probably can have a nice straight one for $5. Sand it down and repaint it.
It can be difficult to find replacement parts for things that don't wear out. Been doing a little searching myself and haven't come up with anything.
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4bbl Holley 390 w/ Offenhauser DP intake. 4 speed Manual w/OD. K&N air filter, EFI manifolds, 2.5" exhaust.
3.00 rear end and 2000 RPMs @ 80mph!
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I may be missing a bolt or two in any case.
