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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2010, 12:50 PM
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lew52 lew52 is offline
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Well you might find something when you take it apart , if the intake was leaking thats a problem right there , we talked about that before & you said there were no leaks , when you pull you pull the intake look at the gasket real good , have you pressure tested the cooling system for leaks & dos it hold pressure ...Lew
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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2010, 12:54 PM
Crabby144 Crabby144 is offline
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no, i don't have pressure tester. i wish i did. when i said earlier there weren't any leaks. well i didnt' think it was a leak. i just thought it was the top radiator hose leaking around the bottom where it connect to t-stat housing. well that wasn't it. so it must be leaking around the intake or something.
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2010, 01:10 PM
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Yeah i would test it before you take anything apart , get one from a freind or rent one it could be just the intake gasket ...Lew
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2010, 01:17 PM
Crabby144 Crabby144 is offline
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yeah i will call one of my friends up and see i can barrow it.
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Old 01-26-2010, 01:18 PM
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yeah i will call one of my friends up and see i can barrow it. and see if he can check the push rods as well.
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Old 01-26-2010, 01:24 PM
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Good you might find something with out pulling the heads , let us know what you find & good luck ...Lew
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Old 01-26-2010, 01:29 PM
DLP Performance DLP Performance is offline
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The hose is supposed to be hard when running. The radiator cap holds 16psi. Pressurizing the cooling system raises the boiling point. If it's not overheating like crazy & blowing hoses & stuff off, I would say there is no backward head gasket issue.
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Old 01-26-2010, 01:31 PM
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alrighty. we'll find out more tonite.
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Old 01-26-2010, 01:58 PM
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When you take the valve cover off and put the bleed down tool on the rocker you should be able to bleed the lifter down. If you can not bleed the lifter down then the push rod is too long.

Collapsed Tappet Gap = Allowable .075-.175, Desired .100-.150

Here is how the book says to do it.
To determine whether a shorter or a longer push rod is necessary, perform the following check:

1. Install an auxiliary starter switch. Crank the engine (6007) with the ignition switch in OFF until the No. 1 piston (6108) is on TDC after the compression stroke.

2. With the crankshaft (6303) in the positions designated in the following Steps 3, 4 and 5, position the hydraulic tappet compressor Tappet Bleed Down Wrench T71P-6513-B on the rocker arm (6564). Slowly apply pressure to bleed down the hydraulic valve tappet until the plunger is completely bottomed. Hold the valve tappet in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler gauge. If the clearance is less than specifications, install a shorter push rod. If the clearance is greater than specifications, install a longer push rod.

Click the image to open in full size.

3. With the No. 1 piston at TDC at the end of the compression stroke (Position No. 1), check clearances on the following valves:

No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust

No. 3 Intake No. 4 Exhaust

No. 7 Intake No. 5 Exhaust

No. 8 Intake No. 8 Exhaust

4. After checking the clearance on these intake valves and exhaust valves, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees to Position No. 2, then check the following valves:

No. 2 Intake No. 2 Exhaust

No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust

No. 5 Intake No. 6 Exhaust

No. 6 Intake No. 7 Exhaust
Click the image to open in full size.

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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2010, 02:10 PM
Crabby144 Crabby144 is offline
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thanks for the diagram
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2010, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
When you take the valve cover off and put the bleed down tool on the rocker you should be able to bleed the lifter down. If you can not bleed the lifter down then the push rod is too long.

Collapsed Tappet Gap = Allowable .075-.175, Desired .100-.150

Here is how the book says to do it.
To determine whether a shorter or a longer push rod is necessary, perform the following check:

1. Install an auxiliary starter switch. Crank the engine (6007) with the ignition switch in OFF until the No. 1 piston (6108) is on TDC after the compression stroke.

2. With the crankshaft (6303) in the positions designated in the following Steps 3, 4 and 5, position the hydraulic tappet compressor Tappet Bleed Down Wrench T71P-6513-B on the rocker arm (6564). Slowly apply pressure to bleed down the hydraulic valve tappet until the plunger is completely bottomed. Hold the valve tappet in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler gauge. If the clearance is less than specifications, install a shorter push rod. If the clearance is greater than specifications, install a longer push rod.

Click the image to open in full size.

3. With the No. 1 piston at TDC at the end of the compression stroke (Position No. 1), check clearances on the following valves:

No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust

No. 3 Intake No. 4 Exhaust

No. 7 Intake No. 5 Exhaust

No. 8 Intake No. 8 Exhaust

4. After checking the clearance on these intake valves and exhaust valves, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees to Position No. 2, then check the following valves:

No. 2 Intake No. 2 Exhaust

No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust

No. 5 Intake No. 6 Exhaust

No. 6 Intake No. 7 Exhaust
Click the image to open in full size.

/
....Thats a very good diagram , so once you get the lifter bleed down , its like setting the valve lash on a solid lift camshaft , but there adjustable ...Lew
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2010, 09:28 PM
Crabby144 Crabby144 is offline
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well did everything tonite. push rods are good. i was getting ready to start taking everything apart until we noticed the plugs are all black now. they wasn't like that. so we are going to look into some more stuff tomorrow night, friend of mine who is a good mechanic is going to ask around tomorrow and dig some stuff up. so i don't know. we'll see
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 07:46 AM
DLP Performance DLP Performance is offline
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I know you don't want to hear this, but the ECM may be bad! I've seen the fuel control circuits go haywire on Fords quite a few times. Can you still try that 302 ECM you had before? Since you fixed the wiring problem you had, maybe you just worked your way through to another problem. However, low coolant level could cause the same rich condition... I sure wish you were closer! I have some bodywork we could trade!
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 07:53 AM
Crabby144 Crabby144 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLP Performance View Post
I know you don't want to hear this, but the ECM may be bad! I've seen the fuel control circuits go haywire on Fords quite a few times. Can you still try that 302 ECM you had before? Since you fixed the wiring problem you had, maybe you just worked your way through to another problem. However, low coolant level could cause the same rich condition... I sure wish you were closer! I have some bodywork we could trade!
Yeah the computer is on my List. I did get another computer and tried it but it didn't change anything. but who's to say that was good. the 302 computer i had before is an older one. i have to look on my goody shelf i might have one that's newer than 93. yeah i would trade some work if we were closer. kinda glad i didn't take it all apart last night, i have all the parts for a 37 chevy coupe laying in the other bay of the shop to paint and i need to get those done quick. next project is a 65 ford pickup. total restore.
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 08:02 AM
DLP Performance DLP Performance is offline
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Your truck's an '87, right? You really don't want to mess with a newer model ECM... ABS & other speed sensors are involved, which make for a real problem. I'd stick with model specific as close as possible. '87-91 Non-E4OD. There are extra circuits starting in '92 because they did away with speedometer cables & went w/ sensors.
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:02 AM
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