well i went ahead and pulled the intake and heads off. i had a few days before my next job comes to the shop. i recently got another running 460 from a guy. i took the heads off of it and pulled all the push rods out of it and placed them in order they came out. i am going to reinstall the new head with their push rods. since i torn my old heads off i noticed that there weren't any shims under the rockers. i don't know how that happend. there were shims when i took it apart, i think we might have forgot to put them back in. oops!!. so with the newer heads they have no shims and i made sure of that. getting everything cleaned up and ready to stick back on the motor. i have a pretty good feeling about this. I know Subford said something awhile back about my pushrods, i was just being stubournd.

 

oh and i don't remember if i said anything in the post about the motor when i took it apart to rebuild. since the motor was a reman motor it had 3 bent push rods and that's why i put new ones in. another thing is all the old push rods were different lengths with shims. so with no shims and all the same length pushrods i think i might have messed it up and that's why i am going with different heads and the pushrods that go with those heads.

 

Let us know how you come out with it.

 

what do ya think? think it will work

 

I think it will.

 

awesome, me too. i should have to add shims or anything should I. it should all work with what i have right?

 

well this sucks, got it back together last night...my hesitation is still there and hard to start when it's warm. it was to late to take it for a drive so i am going to take it up the road saturday to see what it's going to do. my top radiator hose don't get rock hard anymore like it used to. the old heads had a little black carbon between cylinders so the old gaskets where bad. so i didn't hurt myself any. I am going to get another FPR and coil and change the plug wires. the plug wires are from my old 302 i built about 6 years ago. some of the connections on the spark plugs aren't tight, they don't have that click feeling when you connect the wires to the plug. I don't know, i am really starting get discouraged. I want my truck to run.

 

But what about number 3, is it working now?

 

yeah it's seems to be working. the only thing with #3 is when you pull it does miss but not as bad as the rest of the plugs, there is spark there too. so i was just wondering if it was a weak wire but i checked the resistance with wire 3 and wire 6 since they are about the same length. you pull 3 the miss is faint and you can notice it, but you pull the rest and you can instantly notice it. i hope that makes sence.

 

you know the crazy thing about it is... the truck sounds really good. just by looking at the motor while idle it shakes a bit not to much so you can tell it has that hesitation at idle, but you can just keep giving it gas and rev it up and it sound awesome sounds like nothings wrong. the fuel pressure doesn't drop everything just seems to be good. timing is dead on it advances where is suppose to as well. you get it out on the road and and floor it sounds and feels like timing is off. you can baby it and it's fine. and hard to start after warm, just keeps cranking and spits and spits and dies or sometimes it spits and it picks up and runs. while it hesitates the rpms don't jump up and down in the tach. you put a dollar bill or a piece of paper by the right tail pipe it intermitantly pulls the paper back towards the pipe, which shows there's a miss. so i don't know. some reading i have done seems it could be a ignition coil, wires. Another thing is, is there a chance if the ignition coil is wired backwards cause and issue or while it not run at all. my plug is broke and just have the terminals to connect the the coil. might have those in the wrong place maybe. i don't know. what are your thoughts. sorry i know it's long rant

 

I take it you did remove the SPOUT while timing it with a timing light.
Hesitating most of the time turns out to be a bad TPS.

 

oh yeah i took the spout out. if the tps would be bad wouldn't it throw a code

 

Not if has a dead spot and has a good reading at closed throttle and WOT.
The only way to check one is with an analog VOM. Put it on the sense wire going back to the computer (TP) and SIG and slowly move the throttle from closed throttle to WOT.
Closed Throttle should be around 0.90 Volts DC and Full Throttle is triggered @ 2.71 volts above Closed Throttle. WOT will be around 4.5 Volts DC.
A DVM or DMM will not work it needs to be an analog VOM.

For more information on the TPS go to the following site.
Ford Fuel Injection Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)


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well i thought i checked the TPS before, but i will again, before spending any more cash on it i am going to take all the other parts off the truck i got the heads off of. it was a good running truck with no oil pressure. can you think of anything else to look at?

 

Maybe the MAP sensor, that the only other thing I can think of right now.
Make sure it has a good electrical connection and the vacuum line to it is OK.

And of course for more info on it go to:
Ford Fuel Injection Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP)

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