thanks for the help guys, I am at the bottom of the slippery slope David 85 was talking about, Going for a full rebuild well it is out.
I will do the Vally pan holes.
What else can I do to make a it more turbo ready well it is out?
Head studs?
Don't worry about head studs for a 7.3. Even on a 6.9 they are not needed unless you like spending lots of time above 10 PSI. Just be sure to clean the threads both on the bolts and in the block very well to make sure they clamp down properly when you go at them with the torque wrench.
Its extremely unlikely that you have cavitation kill compression on more than one cylinder. However, inspect the head very well to make sure there aren't any cracks or damaged valves.
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1986 F250HD Ex cab Fresh built up 6.9L diesel, Lariat AC leather seats power everything w/full cluster, sterling rear 3.08LS gears, E4OD trans, ram intake ATS 088 turbo
1986 F150 Ex cab Lariat rollercam 5.0L on LPG AOD trans 3.55 gears 390 000Ks
Better find out exactly what the problem is first.
That way you will have a better idea how much you have to invest in just getting it running again.
After that if you have extra dollars, we can talk upgrades.
I have spreadsgheets set up to calculate RPM, Tire size, axle ratio's, overdrive ratio's and MPH with the most common transmission ratio's plugged in already.
So all I have to do is enter the known numbers and it calculates the rest for me.
Lotus 123 Release 1A was the first computer program I learned to use with my first computer way back when DOS 1.24 (IBM 1.1) was the killer operating system and the 8086 running 4.77 MgHtz was a hot CPU with 384 K of ram on the original IBM PC.
Windows 2.3 was still a couple years away when the 80286 CPU came out.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
Better find out exactly what the problem is first.
That way you will have a better idea how much you have to invest in just getting it running again.
After that if you have extra dollars, we can talk upgrades.
I have spreadsgheets set up to calculate RPM, Tire size, axle ratio's, overdrive ratio's and MPH with the most common transmission ratio's plugged in already.
So all I have to do is enter the known numbers and it calculates the rest for me.
Lotus 123 Release 1A was the first computer program I learned to use with my first computer way back when DOS 1.24 (IBM 1.1) was the killer operating system and the 8086 running 4.77 MgHtz was a hot CPU with 384 K of ram on the original IBM PC.
Windows 2.3 was still a couple years away when the 80286 CPU came out.
Would you care to tell me what my speed is in my truck in 4th gear from 1000 rpm all the way to 4000 rpm, it has t-19 3.55 gears 285/75/16 tires
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1986 ford f250 XLT Lariat 4x4 6.9 n/a, t19,285/75/16 maxxis mudders, on gun metal grey wagon wheels,Brand new BB code injectors from typ4, rebuilt ip set to 4??? rpm, really advanced timing, glow plug delete mod, soup bowl and restrictor plate gone, equis performance water temp, and oil pressure gauges, factory tach, putting a non wastegated psd turbo on it very soon, and going to run isspro boost and pyro gauges and maybe isspro tach along with factory tach just for kicks and giggles
I am pulling the motor and taking it apart before I order anything.
I am hoping it is the head gasket.
If the cylinder wall has cavitation holes, I will have a shop bore a good 6.9 block I have to 7.3.
They will do that for $200, but they want $1200 to sleeve the 7.3 block.
are you talking about boring a 6.9 over to a 7.3? dont always bore the minumal amount to clean the cylinder walls up
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1986 ford f250 XLT Lariat 4x4 6.9 n/a, t19,285/75/16 maxxis mudders, on gun metal grey wagon wheels,Brand new BB code injectors from typ4, rebuilt ip set to 4??? rpm, really advanced timing, glow plug delete mod, soup bowl and restrictor plate gone, equis performance water temp, and oil pressure gauges, factory tach, putting a non wastegated psd turbo on it very soon, and going to run isspro boost and pyro gauges and maybe isspro tach along with factory tach just for kicks and giggles
As you can see, giving the RPM to speed through the entire range would be a lot of typing since I can not just copy and paste the info.
Bill boring a 6.9 110 thousandths will give you a 7.3, but consider that cavitation is still an issue on the 6.9 block.
If you chose to bore it that much, there is a possibility that they will bore into a cavitation pocket which would mean a ruined block.
The common over sized pistons for the 6.9 are 20, 30 and 40 over.
My recommendation is go with the minimum overbore you can use and still have fresh clean cylinder walls.
You will be buying over sized pistons and rings, and while I was in there I would change all bearings, seals and gaskets.
Lifters and cam would also be a good idea.
If you do use the 6.9 block and are considering a turbo, I would use head studs when I put it together.
Do you know what year the 6.9 is?
If 86 or older, swap the rockers from the 7.3 heads to the 6.9 heads, bolt on swap.
Almost everything from the 7.3 will bolt to the 6.9.
The only exception is the heads.
I would use 7.3 turbo exhaust valves, again a drop in swap.
Also check the valve spring tensions, some of them may be getting weak.
Magnaflux the block and heads checking for cracks before you do anything else with either motor.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
As you can see, giving the RPM to speed through the entire range would be a lot of typing since I can not just copy and paste the info.
Bill boring a 6.9 110 thousandths will give you a 7.3, but consider that cavitation is still an issue on the 6.9 block.
If you chose to bore it that much, there is a possibility that they will bore into a cavitation pocket which would mean a ruined block.
The common over sized pistons for the 6.9 are 20, 30 and 40 over.
My recommendation is go with the minimum overbore you can use and still have fresh clean cylinder walls.
You will be buying over sized pistons and rings, and while I was in there I would change all bearings, seals and gaskets.
Lifters and cam would also be a good idea.
If you do use the 6.9 block and are considering a turbo, I would use head studs when I put it together.
Do you know what year the 6.9 is?
If 86 or older, swap the rockers from the 7.3 heads to the 6.9 heads, bolt on swap.
Almost everything from the 7.3 will bolt to the 6.9.
The only exception is the heads.
I would use 7.3 turbo exhaust valves, again a drop in swap.
Also check the valve spring tensions, some of them may be getting weak.
Magnaflux the block and heads checking for cracks before you do anything else with either motor.
Thanks dave, so when i finish my build up of my hoped up motor i will have a top speed of about 110
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1986 ford f250 XLT Lariat 4x4 6.9 n/a, t19,285/75/16 maxxis mudders, on gun metal grey wagon wheels,Brand new BB code injectors from typ4, rebuilt ip set to 4??? rpm, really advanced timing, glow plug delete mod, soup bowl and restrictor plate gone, equis performance water temp, and oil pressure gauges, factory tach, putting a non wastegated psd turbo on it very soon, and going to run isspro boost and pyro gauges and maybe isspro tach along with factory tach just for kicks and giggles
As you can see, giving the RPM to speed through the entire range would be a lot of typing since I can not just copy and paste the info.
Bill boring a 6.9 110 thousandths will give you a 7.3, but consider that cavitation is still an issue on the 6.9 block.
If you chose to bore it that much, there is a possibility that they will bore into a cavitation pocket which would mean a ruined block.
The common over sized pistons for the 6.9 are 20, 30 and 40 over.
My recommendation is go with the minimum overbore you can use and still have fresh clean cylinder walls.
You will be buying over sized pistons and rings, and while I was in there I would change all bearings, seals and gaskets.
Lifters and cam would also be a good idea.
If you do use the 6.9 block and are considering a turbo, I would use head studs when I put it together.
Do you know what year the 6.9 is?
If 86 or older, swap the rockers from the 7.3 heads to the 6.9 heads, bolt on swap.
Almost everything from the 7.3 will bolt to the 6.9.
The only exception is the heads.
I would use 7.3 turbo exhaust valves, again a drop in swap.
Also check the valve spring tensions, some of them may be getting weak.
Magnaflux the block and heads checking for cracks before you do anything else with either motor.
The 7.3 is a 90 and the 6.9 is an 83.
If the 7.3 block is good, is there any reason to swap to the 6.9 ?
I am just waiting for the rain to stop so I can pull the motor.
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My V10 will out pull your PSD any day of the week.*
*If you have a stock 7.3 with 3.73s or 3.55s and 4 speed auto. Test must be at sea level
I will smoke the 6.0,6.4 and new 6.7 after I do the twin turbo mod.
As long as the block aint cracked in the 83 and as long as you never use the factory block heater then you will be just fine, im about to put my 83 6.9 in my 93 f150, i guess i need to start a build thread pretty soon
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1986 ford f250 XLT Lariat 4x4 6.9 n/a, t19,285/75/16 maxxis mudders, on gun metal grey wagon wheels,Brand new BB code injectors from typ4, rebuilt ip set to 4??? rpm, really advanced timing, glow plug delete mod, soup bowl and restrictor plate gone, equis performance water temp, and oil pressure gauges, factory tach, putting a non wastegated psd turbo on it very soon, and going to run isspro boost and pyro gauges and maybe isspro tach along with factory tach just for kicks and giggles
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