I need to get some Stainless Steel caliper pistons to replace the crap phenolic pistons that are all tore up.
I do have one Stainless Steel piston left over from my dealership days and it's a perfect fit!
Anyone know where I can get 3 more of the Stainless Steel ones??
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
Well, they might not be Stainless Steel, but they are metal, and unemployment is my regular income right now, so it has to be cheap.
Also, That brake supplier only offer rotors, custom made calipers, pads and everything is way out of my price range.
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
It's kind of a moot point as I found a set of NEW CALIPERS IN THE WRECKING YARD!!
That's right, a new set with the high temp gray silicone dust boots!
The fluid coming out of them was clear and fresh!
The pistons pushed in so easily, and the ever so slight surface rust it had was like a new caliper kept on a shelf in the warehouse for a few months!
The rotors were even new!
Too bad I did not have the money for them!
And the truck they came off of made my rust bucket look new!
They had the phenolic pistons, but since they were new, I thought why not just reinstall them.
It must have had the front brakes completely replaced just before it went into the junk yard!
I will still make a set if I can't find them cheap at summitracing.com, or someplace else for the next overhaul.
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
All that's left now is to bleed and install the master cylinder, bleed the remainder of the system and reinstall the wheels.
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
Don`t forget to bleed the RABS module on the left frame rail.
Good luck.
I know.
I tore it apart and cleaned it up and lubed it on the inside, but there seems to be an opinion that it requires activation to properly or completely bleed the thing.
I have been attempting to research the issue, but have found and heard nothing definitive.
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
[quote=archangel;8071155]I know.
there seems to be an opinion that it requires activation to properly or completely bleed the thing.
That is wrong. It is a big advantage that the Ford system has over the Chevy one that Ford had the brains to provide a bleed screw.
Whoever told you that was probably thinking of the four wheel ABS.
Bleed it just like you would a brake wheel cylinder.
Now the Ford manual says to bleed both back brakes and then the RABS module before moving on to the front brakes. However some people prefer to bleed the RABS module first then the rear brakes then the front.
I opened up the rear right and waited for gravity to get the fluid there, then did the rear left, went back and forth a few times, then did the R.A.B.S. and there was almost no air in the R.A.B.S. at all by the time I felt I was done with the wheels.
I will drive it a week and bleed it again just to be sure I got it all.
The master cylinder was a real pain to get going on the bench though.
The pedal does not feel as good as I would like it to, but it does stop well.
If I step on the brake pedal a couple times quickly it does feel a lot better.
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
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