How does one go about building a higher HP (~500hp) daily driver carefully without over stressing one system after upgrading another? My truck has 65,000 miles and at the rate I drive it, it won't be out of the 100K warranty till forever it seems.

So if I wanted to upgrade one thing at a time such as the tranny, torque converter, airdog, injectors, head studs, turbo, intercooler, egr delete, tuner, oil and/or coolant bypass...what upgrades would overwhelm another system prematurely?

Would injectors, studs, and an airdog require a tuner and/or a turbo upgrade at the same time? Can I add a bigger turbo with no tuner? Is a tranny upgrade necessary under 600hp? Is a 700hp daily driver reasonable?

Or should I sell the truck and get something else and start over? J/K, I love my truck.

All I got now is an intake, exhaust and gauges. Most diesel mags give a list of parts to beef up a truck but no real order to do it in. Any help is appreciated.

 

This post is right up Tex25025's alley!

He is the one that got me started on my spreadsheets (I think my wife blames him now for my addiction) .

400+ reliable rwhp IMO...

Reliability first:

• Coolant filter
• Gauges (fuel pressure, EGT, Boost, EOT, ECT) - seems you are covered
• ARP studs
• EGR system delete
• 4 inch exhaust (lower your EGT's) - seems you already have this covered also!
• ccv re-route

HP next:

• Custom tuned SCT (or Phalynx)
• Fuel system upgrade (Airdog2 would be my choice, but many folks use FASS w/ a regulated return system added on)
• Suncoast updated direct shift solenoid (you may need to upgrade the tranny more if you want more than 450 - Tex will know!)

You might not need to mess with the sticks or turbo, all this would probably put you at 450 +. Many folks do upgrade the turbo and the injectors, but it is for a pretty penny for sure. Also - up to 500 hp you still do not NEED a new air intake (even though you have upgraded already)!.

 

I am basing all following responses based on what is in bold.




Actually once you start changing engine components, you might as well just consider it being out of warranty at that point. Unless you are able to deal with your local dealership.

Alright, since you have exhaust and gauges(I'm going to lay off my high horse on the intake at this point in time), I'm going to take it from there as those are the good ones to start with.

Next would have to be headstuds, I say headstuds, because in order to achieve ~500 hp, you are going to have to upgrade injectors and turbo and those will stress the already fragile balance of the bolts.

After that would be a tuner with custom tunes(either SCT's X3 or the Spartan Phalanx would be my first choice on that).

I would suggest ITP's Regulated Return kit as an insurance "policy" to help keep your modified injectors filled with fuel.

Next would be a mild set of injectors either 155s or 180s would get you at or a little over 500hp, maybe more depending on how your truck is exactly configured.

Now, unless you pump craps out on you, the stock pump should be able to support those mild injectors as long as it's in good operating order. If not, I would upgrade it.

This would be the time that I would do an EGR delete or bypass as the overfueling from those bigger injectors will give you some trouble with the valve.

As for a turbo, I would suggest nothing bigger then a 64mm Non-VGT turbo. I run RCD's 64mm turbo and it is a really really nice setup. If you want more info on that let me know.

After this, you'll have to get those custom tunes re-written for the turbo and injectors that you have. If you do injectors and turbo seperate, I would suggest the injectors first as it's easier to tune a truck with injectors and a smaller turbo, then it is the other way around.

I would expect the tranny to crap out on you and I would set aside for a rebuild kit(I use Suncoast). Depending on how you run your truck will determine what kind of TC you will need to get for that.

As to intercooler, if your on the low end of 500hp, you might not need one unless the area that you are in would dictate it. I would either go with Spearco or Banks on that one(the only thing that I would suggest Banks for).

The injectors and turbo would be the only things that in of themselves would require a tuner.

You can, but you won't like how it drives and I wouldn't advise it.

For our trucks yes it is.

Doable...yes, reasonable....no. I wouldn't do it because all of that power would be so far up the RPM range you won't be able to enjoy it and it would make towing any type of load that has to be hitched to the truck almost impossible to tow with as it won't have any street manners. 500-550 is the highest I would go on the street and still be able to use the truck as a truck.

Diesel mags are really good for finding out what's out there, but do your research about the products after that. Specifically their constant advocating the intake I have issue with as it directly applies to the 6.0.

 

Awesome info Tex and bismic. Much appreciated.

If I got the head bolts put in and some 180cc injectors at the same time and some fuel system mods (pump and regulator) would any damage or harm be done driving around suburban VA while saving up more $$ for a turbo, transmission and other mods? Most of the other items are relatively cheap it seems compared to the studs (+ labor), injectors and turbo.

 

I would prefer nothing crap out, so if I need to do everything at once so be it, but if I can drive my kids around with a few mods here and there until its "complete", I would prefer that route. I know there are no guarantees but if my driving style is a major factor at least that is controllable.

 

Properly tuned you should be fine doing things in piece meal as long as you get your supporting mods done first. I know supporting mods aren't the fun mods to do, but they do stave off heartache over the truck being at the shop more then it needs to be.

I would suggest getting an in-cab fuel psi gauge if you don't already have one as that would help monitor your pump, RR return and it would help show early on any problems in fuel delivery as to keep the injectors from being harmed to the point of needing to be replaced.

 

Great posts Tex. It is nice to have your knowledge here on the boards. I can't send any rep points your way yet, but hopefully someone else can (and does)!

 

I think I reped ya Tex not sure if I did it right or what but great info buddy!

 

you could very well do this and probably get by. the one thing that popped in my head was that usually when you are getting these parts installed it will make it so much easier and less time consuming (less labor=less money) and when the mechanic is already that close might as well do as much as you want so you don't have to pay twice.

maybe you should just get a tuner for right now, since it sounds like you want power, get a hot streetable tune and drive you truck around and see how you like 400hp. then go from there, if you blow the heads hot rodding then that will be the perfect time for studs and injectors to go in.

 

Good-one Tex!

 

Do any mod you want first just leave the turbo and injectors for last.

 

Tuning would need to be worked on after the injectors and turbo is put on there. Otherwise tuning might not be right.

 

Okay what's the problem with modding tuning files? You know they can adjust the tuning after ANY mods are done right?

To stay safe until you are ready to make the big jump keep it simple. Turbos and injectors will require time and effort to get done right. Some are lucky enough to get it right the first time around others take multiple attempts to get it all dialed in.

 

My point was that injectors and turbos weren't going to be the last thing to be done. Since there was a question about rather or not tuning needed to be done for an a/m turbo, I wanted it to be made certain that tuning has to be done after the modification of the injectors and turbo.

Surely you would know that I'm fully aware of that, however, I do not know if the OP is and I can't assume that he is.

 

No worries.