thank you again exv10,and 06silvercrewit's way better with the washer in place. still haven't used the jb weld. haven't had the time. as for me keeping it safe. tell that to the ford dealership that i drove away from with the sloppiest steering i've driven with. and for the washer, i got it from the dealer, oem part, just doubled it up. i do still plan on using the jb weld. i'll still let you know how it works.
There's your problem, if you just doubled up the stock washer its still not pulling the arm up on the splines.... THE I.D OF THE WASHER MUST!!! BE ABLE TO SLIDE OVER THE SPLINES, NOT THE THREADS!!
DO NOT DRILL AND PIN THE NUT, THAT WILL WEAKEN THE NUT AND THE SHAFT!!!!
HALF ASS ENGINEERING HAS NO PLACE IN A STEERING SETUP. I CANT BELIEVE THESE OPTIONS ARE EVEN BEING GIVEN AS ADVICE
__________________ God is Great, Beer is good, people are crazy
'06 F250 PSD XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, SCT custom tune from eric, ARP studs, autometer gauges, 4'' MBRP turbo back, AFE stg II, EGR delete, Zoodad, Chrome step bars, '08 mirrors, viper Alarm, Rough Country 8'' Lift, MT MTZ 36-15.50-20, 20X10 Motometals.
so this confuses me a little bit. i appreciate you still bearing with me and giving me your advice. yes i just doubled up the oem washer. but what cofuses me that you said was for the washer to slide over the slines not the threads. is the splines the slines that are on the shaft that comes out of the gearbox? because the threads are on the bottom of the shaft, how would i put a washer over the splined part of the shaft and not the threaded part, i have to go over the threaded part to get to the slines.
thanks
o6silvercrew is correct, these recommendations are very dangerous and can end up killing someone. If you want to take those kind of risks while off roading or out on the farm I guess that is OK but not where other people are at risk from your mickey mouse repairs! This is not the same as mounting a mud flap or a set of air horns. I've been a mechanic for over 30 years and and I've seen some pretty scary repairs done in the past and seen the damage that they caused. Front end repairs and brakes are not the place to be taking chances. If you don't want to listen to me that is your right this is still America, but please let us all know exactly what roads you drive on and at what times so we can try and keep our family and loved ones off those roads when you are on them.
__________________ " No other success can compensate for failure in the home " David O McKay
There's your problem, if you just doubled up the stock washer its still not pulling the arm up on the splines.... THE I.D OF THE WASHER MUST!!! BE ABLE TO SLIDE OVER THE SPLINES, NOT THE THREADS!!
DO NOT DRILL AND PIN THE NUT, THAT WILL WEAKEN THE NUT AND THE SHAFT!!!!
HALF ASS ENGINEERING HAS NO PLACE IN A STEERING SETUP. I CANT BELIEVE THESE OPTIONS ARE EVEN BEING GIVEN AS ADVICE
A 1/8" hole and a little pin is not going to hurt anything. You are being overly dramatic. People that don't work on vehicles much get freaked out easily about nothing. Drill the nut airforce if the other things don't work and don't listen to all these worry warts.
__________________
Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
man, i haven't done anything questionable, have i? putting second oem washer isn't going to kill anyone. it's tight, which is better than the dealer let me drive away with. why the bold face accusitions. it certainly does sound like you havet delt with this issue and are certainly not helping mine with the way you posted. the truck is steering better than it has for a long time. so lay off..
Try putting two nuts on and tightening them against each other that should do it.
__________________
2008 ford f-250 cc 5.4 super duty , raider hi rise camper top with thule ladder racks, front winch bumper top gun, rear bumper top gun,12,000 lb. winch, 98 gal. aux tank, on board 12 volt puma air compressor w/10gal tank and 50' auto hose reel,1000 amp 2nd battery,1,000,2,500,6,000 watt power inverters, 9" hid lights, running boards, air horns by hadley, xm radio, fac. 6 cd nav. center, air bags, cb,2-4'12volt flourescent lights in back.
man, i haven't done anything questionable, have i? putting second oem washer isn't going to kill anyone. it's tight, which is better than the dealer let me drive away with. why the bold face accusitions. it certainly does sound like you havet delt with this issue and are certainly not helping mine with the way you posted. the truck is steering better than it has for a long time. so lay off..
I agree, these guys are acting like you used a paper mache` nut.......................hey, now there's an idea.
__________________
Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
A 1/8" hole and a little pin is not going to hurt anything. You are being overly dramatic. People that don't work on vehicles much get freaked out easily about nothing. Drill the nut airforce if the other things don't work and don't listen to all these worry warts.
I work on cars and truck every day of my life thanks. ASE master,GM master and world class. I have PLENTY of experience.
Your not understanding the point of the problem, its not just the nut loosening, its the fact that the drop pitman arm isnt being "pulled" up into the tapered part of the splines far enough, thus requiring a washer. The factory nut bottoms out against the splines before the pitman arm is far enough up on the splines.
To the original poster, Im in no way getting after you, you came here with a legitiment question, and this guy is shelling out advice that could be detramental to you, your family and others on the road.
Even if you were to take his advice and drill and pin the Nut, IT WONT 100% CORRECT YOUR PROBLEM.
__________________ God is Great, Beer is good, people are crazy
'06 F250 PSD XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, SCT custom tune from eric, ARP studs, autometer gauges, 4'' MBRP turbo back, AFE stg II, EGR delete, Zoodad, Chrome step bars, '08 mirrors, viper Alarm, Rough Country 8'' Lift, MT MTZ 36-15.50-20, 20X10 Motometals.
i actually do understand, the nut bottoms out on the splines. your last statement " THE I.D OF THE WASHER MUST!!! BE ABLE TO SLIDE OVER THE SPLINES, NOT THE THREADS!!"
i don't understand this. the threads are at the bottom of the shaft, don't i have to be able to get the washer over the threads to get to the pitman arm?
i actually do understand, the nut bottoms out on the splines. your last statement " THE I.D OF THE WASHER MUST!!! BE ABLE TO SLIDE OVER THE SPLINES, NOT THE THREADS!!"
i don't understand this. the threads are at the bottom of the shaft, don't i have to be able to get the washer over the threads to get to the pitman arm?
Visulize this: You are trying to make the pitman arm extend past the splines (as if it was thicker) so the nut can tighten up against it without reaching the splines.
In order to do this, the washer must be big enough inside to slip up over the threads and the splines and rest against the pitman arm. It also has to be thick enough that the nut tightens against it and squeezes everything tight before the nut reaches the splines.
Since the pitman arm seems to have loose internal splines, you should consider buying another arm (a quality one with proper splines) that will tighten up on the shaft properly without an added washer. Even if the shaft is worn out, you will not be wasting money since the old arm appears to be too worn to reuse anyway. If the shaft splines appear worn, this may not be enough and you should consider a gearbox as well, but only if the new arm won't fit tight.
To summerize: 1) Make sure the washer doesn't bottom against the splines before the arm comes up tight. 2) If that arm is still loose, replace it with a quality new arm. 3) If the new arm slips up too far on the splines, replace the gearbox.
thank you i will try this. is it hard to change gearbox out? or should i have a shop do this? i've seen some ads for gearbox rebuilds that look pretty good. any suggestions?
Yes good advice, he explained it just as I was meaning. I would give the washer a try before I spent anything on a new box or rebuild.
As for replacing the pitman arm, as sad as it is I have ran into this same exact problem on many different lift kit manufacturers and different vehicles. So chances of spending money on a new arm and getting another "bad" one are good. Go with the washer, can just about guarantee the washer and proper torque will have you fixed right up. Good luck keep us posted.
__________________ God is Great, Beer is good, people are crazy
'06 F250 PSD XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, SCT custom tune from eric, ARP studs, autometer gauges, 4'' MBRP turbo back, AFE stg II, EGR delete, Zoodad, Chrome step bars, '08 mirrors, viper Alarm, Rough Country 8'' Lift, MT MTZ 36-15.50-20, 20X10 Motometals.
Yes good advice, he explained it just as I was meaning. I would give the washer a try before I spent anything on a new box or rebuild.
As for replacing the pitman arm, as sad as it is I have ran into this same exact problem on many different lift kit manufacturers and different vehicles. So chances of spending money on a new arm and getting another "bad" one are good. Go with the washer, can just about guarantee the washer and proper torque will have you fixed right up. Good luck keep us posted.
I understand what the problem is, that never was my point. Airforce; You might want to invest in a new self locking nut also from a fastening specialty company.
__________________
Brent Bradley Scenic photographer and former mechanic with car and motorcycle drag racing background. Also, avid snowmobiler.......retired. The Ex; custom mudflaps
I understand what the problem is, that never was my point. Airforce; You might want to invest in a new self locking nut also from a fastening specialty company.
Thats a good idea, as once the washer is added and the stock lock washer is used there isnt much thread left. That thing takes a 46mm socket, bet it would be hard to find but if you could that would be good too.
__________________ God is Great, Beer is good, people are crazy
'06 F250 PSD XLT, CC, SB, 4x4, SCT custom tune from eric, ARP studs, autometer gauges, 4'' MBRP turbo back, AFE stg II, EGR delete, Zoodad, Chrome step bars, '08 mirrors, viper Alarm, Rough Country 8'' Lift, MT MTZ 36-15.50-20, 20X10 Motometals.
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I CANT BELIEVE THESE OPTIONS ARE EVEN BEING GIVEN AS ADVICE
o6silvercrew is correct, these recommendations are very dangerous and can end up killing someone. If you want to take those kind of risks while off roading or out on the farm I guess that is OK but not where other people are at risk from your mickey mouse repairs! This is not the same as mounting a mud flap or a set of air horns. I've been a mechanic for over 30 years and and I've seen some pretty scary repairs done in the past and seen the damage that they caused. Front end repairs and brakes are not the place to be taking chances. If you don't want to listen to me that is your right this is still America, but please let us all know exactly what roads you drive on and at what times so we can try and keep our family and loved ones off those roads when you are on them.
