Need help I.D'ing 7.3 or 6.9
#1
10-17-2009, 02:23 AM
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Need help I.D'ing 7.3 or 6.9
I went back to my old shop the other day to visit a buddy of mine. And low and behold he had an ole IDI sitting on the floor. He told me he had a customer come in with his truck and this donor truck and robbed the banks turbo kit off it. Being a diesel junkie that he was before sending the donor truck back to the scrap yard it nabbed the engine. My question is that we don't know whether its a 7.3 or a 6.9 and this is where I need your help.
(alright you smarta**es before you say it) The ID tag on the valve cover has no writing left on it. It was completely blank. All we know what was left of the truck was that it was an 88 F350 and it had an auto tranny. I'm guessing its a 7.3 because it has the round tipped glow plugs in it but whos to say they haven't changed them. Is there any other way to ID this thing so I can see if we want to rebuild this puppy or not.
Its in rough shape. Looks like its been into before because several of the intake bolts have washers under them for spacers. It is completely covered from intake to oilpan under like a 1/2 inch of grease and grime. any help would be appreciated.
(alright you smarta**es before you say it) The ID tag on the valve cover has no writing left on it. It was completely blank. All we know what was left of the truck was that it was an 88 F350 and it had an auto tranny. I'm guessing its a 7.3 because it has the round tipped glow plugs in it but whos to say they haven't changed them. Is there any other way to ID this thing so I can see if we want to rebuild this puppy or not.
Its in rough shape. Looks like its been into before because several of the intake bolts have washers under them for spacers. It is completely covered from intake to oilpan under like a 1/2 inch of grease and grime. any help would be appreciated.
#3
10-17-2009, 07:49 AM
Cylinder head bolts are the best indication.... may be a bit more than you needed.
Cylinder head bolts - 6.9 = 7/16"-14 UNC 5.25" long
Cylinder head bolts - 7.3 = 1/2" - 13 UNC 6" long
.................................................. .................................................. .........
First year for the 6.9 - 1983
Last year for the 6.9 - 1987
By 1988 all production 7.3
6.9 - Max H.P. 175 Torque 318 ft. lb.
7.3 - Max H.P. 185 Torque 338 ft. lb.
6.9 max torque at 1800 RPM
7.3 max torque at 1600 RPM
Both max HP at 3300 RPM.
7.3 external identification variance from 6.9 - New fuel filter/fuel heater/water sparator, larger/taller cylinder head bolt bosses with ribs. Dual mass flywheel on 5spd.
Crankcase differences
Cylinder bore - 6.9 = 4.00"
Cylinder bore - 7.3 = 4.11"
Stroke for both - 4.18"
Top deck thickness - 6.9 = .500"
Top deck thickness - 7.3 = .560"
Oil drain Back holes - 6.9 = 3/8"
Oil drain Back holes - 7.3 = 7/16"
Cylinder head changes
Cylinder head bolts - 6.9 = 7/16"-14 UNC 5.25" long
Cylinder head bolts - 7.3 = 1/2" - 13 UNC 6" long
Cylinder head bolt washer 6.9 = .105" thick
Cylinder head bolt washer 7.3 = .134" thick
Head bolt torque -
6.9 with new bolts = 75ft. lbs.
6.9 with used bolts = 85ft. lbs.
7.3 new or used = 100ft. lbs.
Cylinder head gasket changes -
Fire ring I.D. 6.9 = 4.14"
Fire ring I.D. 7.3 = 4.22"
Gasket cutouts elimitated between cylinders on the 7.3 to eliminate cosmetic corrosion phenomenon.
Viton oil drain back sealing rings added to the 7.3 (also used in later versions of the 6.9 head gasket, then eliminated again).
Head design changes -
6.9 features "centered" glow plugs, while 7.3 are "off-center"
Injection nozzles have been retracted on the 7.3 .060" to facilitate Federal and state emission certs.
Precombustion chamber volume -
6.9 = 18.34 cm3
7.3 = 20.42 cm3 (increased only for emissions certs)
Precombusion chamber inserts are physically interchangable, however the throat has been redesigned to distinguish them apart, and the 7.3 prechamber cup has an embossed "88" on it.
Valve Stem -
The 7.3 valve stem oil sheild is larger to reduce hydrocarbon emissions. Intake and Exhaust sheilds have been color coded, even though they are identical and interchangeable.
Coolant passages -
The lower corner coolant passages on the cylinder head on the 7.3 have been plugged. This change is introduced to eliminate lower corner gasket coolant seepage during cold start engine warm-up. Mating passages in the block are also plugged. (could be why we hear more 7.3 overheating issues).
Exhaust valves - The 7.3 exhaust valve has had its alloy composition changed, with more nickel, chrome, and silver content, and decreased manganese content. The 7.3 valves may be used in the 6.9, but not the other way around.
Piston and ring sizes increased in accordance with bore changes. The 7.3 utilizes select fit pistons at the manufacturer. The engine is produced with A,B,C and D size pistons and cylinder bores. When re-using pistons, "A" pistons should go in "A" cylinders, and "B" pistons in "B" cylinders and so on. These letters are stamped on the pistons and the cylinder bores at the bottom of the bore when viewed from the crankshaft side. Service part pistons can be utilized in any bore, and are identified with an "S".
Cylinder head bolts - 6.9 = 7/16"-14 UNC 5.25" long
Cylinder head bolts - 7.3 = 1/2" - 13 UNC 6" long
.................................................. .................................................. .........
First year for the 6.9 - 1983
Last year for the 6.9 - 1987
By 1988 all production 7.3
6.9 - Max H.P. 175 Torque 318 ft. lb.
7.3 - Max H.P. 185 Torque 338 ft. lb.
6.9 max torque at 1800 RPM
7.3 max torque at 1600 RPM
Both max HP at 3300 RPM.
7.3 external identification variance from 6.9 - New fuel filter/fuel heater/water sparator, larger/taller cylinder head bolt bosses with ribs. Dual mass flywheel on 5spd.
Crankcase differences
Cylinder bore - 6.9 = 4.00"
Cylinder bore - 7.3 = 4.11"
Stroke for both - 4.18"
Top deck thickness - 6.9 = .500"
Top deck thickness - 7.3 = .560"
Oil drain Back holes - 6.9 = 3/8"
Oil drain Back holes - 7.3 = 7/16"
Cylinder head changes
Cylinder head bolts - 6.9 = 7/16"-14 UNC 5.25" long
Cylinder head bolts - 7.3 = 1/2" - 13 UNC 6" long
Cylinder head bolt washer 6.9 = .105" thick
Cylinder head bolt washer 7.3 = .134" thick
Head bolt torque -
6.9 with new bolts = 75ft. lbs.
6.9 with used bolts = 85ft. lbs.
7.3 new or used = 100ft. lbs.
Cylinder head gasket changes -
Fire ring I.D. 6.9 = 4.14"
Fire ring I.D. 7.3 = 4.22"
Gasket cutouts elimitated between cylinders on the 7.3 to eliminate cosmetic corrosion phenomenon.
Viton oil drain back sealing rings added to the 7.3 (also used in later versions of the 6.9 head gasket, then eliminated again).
Head design changes -
6.9 features "centered" glow plugs, while 7.3 are "off-center"
Injection nozzles have been retracted on the 7.3 .060" to facilitate Federal and state emission certs.
Precombustion chamber volume -
6.9 = 18.34 cm3
7.3 = 20.42 cm3 (increased only for emissions certs)
Precombusion chamber inserts are physically interchangable, however the throat has been redesigned to distinguish them apart, and the 7.3 prechamber cup has an embossed "88" on it.
Valve Stem -
The 7.3 valve stem oil sheild is larger to reduce hydrocarbon emissions. Intake and Exhaust sheilds have been color coded, even though they are identical and interchangeable.
Coolant passages -
The lower corner coolant passages on the cylinder head on the 7.3 have been plugged. This change is introduced to eliminate lower corner gasket coolant seepage during cold start engine warm-up. Mating passages in the block are also plugged. (could be why we hear more 7.3 overheating issues).
Exhaust valves - The 7.3 exhaust valve has had its alloy composition changed, with more nickel, chrome, and silver content, and decreased manganese content. The 7.3 valves may be used in the 6.9, but not the other way around.
Piston and ring sizes increased in accordance with bore changes. The 7.3 utilizes select fit pistons at the manufacturer. The engine is produced with A,B,C and D size pistons and cylinder bores. When re-using pistons, "A" pistons should go in "A" cylinders, and "B" pistons in "B" cylinders and so on. These letters are stamped on the pistons and the cylinder bores at the bottom of the bore when viewed from the crankshaft side. Service part pistons can be utilized in any bore, and are identified with an "S".
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10-17-2009, 12:13 PM
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10-17-2009, 04:04 PM
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10-17-2009, 06:26 PM
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#8
10-25-2009, 12:49 AM
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Well after thoroughly pressurewashing the 50lbs of grease and gunk off of it we finially got down to the casting number. It clearly stated that its a 6.9. We are planning on rebuilding the thing as a little project engine.
A new question I now have is this. My friend has a 75 F350 with a service body with either the 460 or 490 (can't remember off the top of my head), with one of the T type manual trannies. Once we rebuild the 6.9 we eventually want to drop that puppy in.... Will the 6.9 fit on the '75 chasis and bolt up to the gasser's T type tranny? Looking at it earlier today, I told him the only thing I would be concerned about is the gear box. I remember somebody a while back had done something similar to this to their '7? pickup and wanted to know what had to be done for the swap other than the obvious wiring etc.
Dave S., I'm shouting out to you in this part.
What would be a list of maybe some modifications when rebuilding this 6.9 you would suggest or any build suggestions. I know for sure that my buddy being the diesel junkie he is will want the most power as possible (aside from turbo right now)
. He is a top notch mechanic and he is a giant fan of 7.3 PS and I consider him a guru at them but he is not as familiar with the secrets of the IDI. He has rebuilt a 7.3 IDI for a customer several years ago, just a generic rebuild. We had sleeves put in it cause it had cavitation pretty bad (machinist used the step at the bottom of block method I've explained about before). So far they have put close to 80,000 on the rebuild without a problem.
I do know as far as the fuel system goes we have a guy within 15 mins. of us, that we will send the IP to for a fresh rebuild and let him "tinker" with it a bit. That gentleman has build several racing IP's for a few fellas I know that drag cummins, chevys, and ford diesels. We will also get him to pop test the injectors. Other than that I leave any other suggestions to you.
Sorry for the longa** post.....Thanks
A new question I now have is this. My friend has a 75 F350 with a service body with either the 460 or 490 (can't remember off the top of my head), with one of the T type manual trannies. Once we rebuild the 6.9 we eventually want to drop that puppy in.... Will the 6.9 fit on the '75 chasis and bolt up to the gasser's T type tranny? Looking at it earlier today, I told him the only thing I would be concerned about is the gear box. I remember somebody a while back had done something similar to this to their '7? pickup and wanted to know what had to be done for the swap other than the obvious wiring etc.
Dave S., I'm shouting out to you in this part.
What would be a list of maybe some modifications when rebuilding this 6.9 you would suggest or any build suggestions. I know for sure that my buddy being the diesel junkie he is will want the most power as possible (aside from turbo right now)
. He is a top notch mechanic and he is a giant fan of 7.3 PS and I consider him a guru at them but he is not as familiar with the secrets of the IDI. He has rebuilt a 7.3 IDI for a customer several years ago, just a generic rebuild. We had sleeves put in it cause it had cavitation pretty bad (machinist used the step at the bottom of block method I've explained about before). So far they have put close to 80,000 on the rebuild without a problem.I do know as far as the fuel system goes we have a guy within 15 mins. of us, that we will send the IP to for a fresh rebuild and let him "tinker" with it a bit. That gentleman has build several racing IP's for a few fellas I know that drag cummins, chevys, and ford diesels. We will also get him to pop test the injectors. Other than that I leave any other suggestions to you.
Sorry for the longa** post.....Thanks
#9
10-25-2009, 09:41 AM
Logistics Pro
You will have to find a bell housing for a 6.9. The T transmission will then bolt to the 6.9 bell. The gasser bolt patterns are different than the diesels. I have not done a swap to the 70s body style but I think the perches on the frame for the motor mounts have to be made or changed. I'll let Dave or David fill you in on the engine goodies as they have done this.
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10-25-2009, 02:14 PM
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#11
10-25-2009, 03:22 PM
Cylinder head bolts are the best indication.... may be a bit more than you needed.
Cylinder head bolts - 6.9 = 7/16"-14 UNC 5.25" long
Cylinder head bolts - 7.3 = 1/2" - 13 UNC 6" long
.................................................. .................................................. .........
First year for the 6.9 - 1983
Last year for the 6.9 - 1987
By 1988 all production 7.3
6.9 - Max H.P. 175 Torque 318 ft. lb.
7.3 - Max H.P. 185 Torque 338 ft. lb.
6.9 max torque at 1800 RPM
7.3 max torque at 1600 RPM
Both max HP at 3300 RPM.
7.3 external identification variance from 6.9 - New fuel filter/fuel heater/water sparator, larger/taller cylinder head bolt bosses with ribs. Dual mass flywheel on 5spd.
Crankcase differences
Cylinder bore - 6.9 = 4.00"
Cylinder bore - 7.3 = 4.11"
Stroke for both - 4.18"
Top deck thickness - 6.9 = .500"
Top deck thickness - 7.3 = .560"
Oil drain Back holes - 6.9 = 3/8"
Oil drain Back holes - 7.3 = 7/16"
Cylinder head changes
Cylinder head bolts - 6.9 = 7/16"-14 UNC 5.25" long
Cylinder head bolts - 7.3 = 1/2" - 13 UNC 6" long
Cylinder head bolt washer 6.9 = .105" thick
Cylinder head bolt washer 7.3 = .134" thick
Head bolt torque -
6.9 with new bolts = 75ft. lbs.
6.9 with used bolts = 85ft. lbs.
7.3 new or used = 100ft. lbs.
Cylinder head gasket changes -
Fire ring I.D. 6.9 = 4.14"
Fire ring I.D. 7.3 = 4.22"
Gasket cutouts elimitated between cylinders on the 7.3 to eliminate cosmetic corrosion phenomenon.
Viton oil drain back sealing rings added to the 7.3 (also used in later versions of the 6.9 head gasket, then eliminated again).
Head design changes -
6.9 features "centered" glow plugs, while 7.3 are "off-center"
Injection nozzles have been retracted on the 7.3 .060" to facilitate Federal and state emission certs.
Precombustion chamber volume -
6.9 = 18.34 cm3
7.3 = 20.42 cm3 (increased only for emissions certs)
Precombusion chamber inserts are physically interchangable, however the throat has been redesigned to distinguish them apart, and the 7.3 prechamber cup has an embossed "88" on it.
Valve Stem -
The 7.3 valve stem oil sheild is larger to reduce hydrocarbon emissions. Intake and Exhaust sheilds have been color coded, even though they are identical and interchangeable.
Coolant passages -
The lower corner coolant passages on the cylinder head on the 7.3 have been plugged. This change is introduced to eliminate lower corner gasket coolant seepage during cold start engine warm-up. Mating passages in the block are also plugged. (could be why we hear more 7.3 overheating issues).
Exhaust valves - The 7.3 exhaust valve has had its alloy composition changed, with more nickel, chrome, and silver content, and decreased manganese content. The 7.3 valves may be used in the 6.9, but not the other way around.
Piston and ring sizes increased in accordance with bore changes. The 7.3 utilizes select fit pistons at the manufacturer. The engine is produced with A,B,C and D size pistons and cylinder bores. When re-using pistons, "A" pistons should go in "A" cylinders, and "B" pistons in "B" cylinders and so on. These letters are stamped on the pistons and the cylinder bores at the bottom of the bore when viewed from the crankshaft side. Service part pistons can be utilized in any bore, and are identified with an "S".
Cylinder head bolts - 6.9 = 7/16"-14 UNC 5.25" long
Cylinder head bolts - 7.3 = 1/2" - 13 UNC 6" long
.................................................. .................................................. .........
First year for the 6.9 - 1983
Last year for the 6.9 - 1987
By 1988 all production 7.3
6.9 - Max H.P. 175 Torque 318 ft. lb.
7.3 - Max H.P. 185 Torque 338 ft. lb.
6.9 max torque at 1800 RPM
7.3 max torque at 1600 RPM
Both max HP at 3300 RPM.
7.3 external identification variance from 6.9 - New fuel filter/fuel heater/water sparator, larger/taller cylinder head bolt bosses with ribs. Dual mass flywheel on 5spd.
Crankcase differences
Cylinder bore - 6.9 = 4.00"
Cylinder bore - 7.3 = 4.11"
Stroke for both - 4.18"
Top deck thickness - 6.9 = .500"
Top deck thickness - 7.3 = .560"
Oil drain Back holes - 6.9 = 3/8"
Oil drain Back holes - 7.3 = 7/16"
Cylinder head changes
Cylinder head bolts - 6.9 = 7/16"-14 UNC 5.25" long
Cylinder head bolts - 7.3 = 1/2" - 13 UNC 6" long
Cylinder head bolt washer 6.9 = .105" thick
Cylinder head bolt washer 7.3 = .134" thick
Head bolt torque -
6.9 with new bolts = 75ft. lbs.
6.9 with used bolts = 85ft. lbs.
7.3 new or used = 100ft. lbs.
Cylinder head gasket changes -
Fire ring I.D. 6.9 = 4.14"
Fire ring I.D. 7.3 = 4.22"
Gasket cutouts elimitated between cylinders on the 7.3 to eliminate cosmetic corrosion phenomenon.
Viton oil drain back sealing rings added to the 7.3 (also used in later versions of the 6.9 head gasket, then eliminated again).
Head design changes -
6.9 features "centered" glow plugs, while 7.3 are "off-center"
Injection nozzles have been retracted on the 7.3 .060" to facilitate Federal and state emission certs.
Precombustion chamber volume -
6.9 = 18.34 cm3
7.3 = 20.42 cm3 (increased only for emissions certs)
Precombusion chamber inserts are physically interchangable, however the throat has been redesigned to distinguish them apart, and the 7.3 prechamber cup has an embossed "88" on it.
Valve Stem -
The 7.3 valve stem oil sheild is larger to reduce hydrocarbon emissions. Intake and Exhaust sheilds have been color coded, even though they are identical and interchangeable.
Coolant passages -
The lower corner coolant passages on the cylinder head on the 7.3 have been plugged. This change is introduced to eliminate lower corner gasket coolant seepage during cold start engine warm-up. Mating passages in the block are also plugged. (could be why we hear more 7.3 overheating issues).
Exhaust valves - The 7.3 exhaust valve has had its alloy composition changed, with more nickel, chrome, and silver content, and decreased manganese content. The 7.3 valves may be used in the 6.9, but not the other way around.
Piston and ring sizes increased in accordance with bore changes. The 7.3 utilizes select fit pistons at the manufacturer. The engine is produced with A,B,C and D size pistons and cylinder bores. When re-using pistons, "A" pistons should go in "A" cylinders, and "B" pistons in "B" cylinders and so on. These letters are stamped on the pistons and the cylinder bores at the bottom of the bore when viewed from the crankshaft side. Service part pistons can be utilized in any bore, and are identified with an "S".
dang man i think dave should save this and make an idi frequently asked questions section
#12
10-25-2009, 08:22 PM
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Manual tranny info is all I can offer, I'm not "up to snuff" on performance.
Luckily I've got some older truck knowledge to help with. '75 F350 with a V8 has 3 options. You've got either a 360, 390, or 460. The standard 4 speed could either be a NP435 or Warner T18. Both trannies are incredibly bulletproof. Unforuately, they're not geared right for a diesel engine. They're wide-ratio 4 speeds. They work great behind the great RPM range of a big block gaser. Not ideally geared for a low revving diesel. Although, there is a member here who does have a T18 behind an IDI and loves it. Can't recall any names right now...
T18 Wide Ratio - 1st gear-6.3, 2nd gear-3.1 3rd gear-1.7, 4th gear-1:1 Direct.
NP435 Wide Ratio - 1st gear-6.7, 2nd gear-3.4, 3rd gear-1.7, 4th gear-1:1 Direct.
The 6.9 came stock with a Close-Ratio T19. This is another cast iron trusty 4 speed. The big difference is the gearing. Although, two other notes-PTO ports on both sides and a synchr 1st gear.
T19 Close Ratio -1st gear-4:1, 2nd gear-2.4, 3rd gear-1.4, 4th gear-1:1 direct.
Now, for fitment into the truck...you do need to find/acquire/buy a DIESEL bellhousing. A gas engine bellhousing will not fit. The engine side bolt are different. But, the tranny side bolts are the same. All these 4 speeds are interchangable bolt-ups. This will be the toughest part of the swap if you're buddy's a good mechanic.
The interesting part. The close-ratio 4 speed is nice, but it lacks a nice low range. You might want to keep your wide-ratio tranny and buy a Gear Vendors Overdrive unit. This would allow you to "split" your gears AND give you an Overdrive. Start is 1st gear, split into 1st high, shift into 2nd, grab second high, you get the point. The gear vendors unit is electrically shifted, so no funny shifters to pull.
Might be too much useless info from one head to another...but don't be concerned about the transmission. It will bolt up. Be concerned with finding a bellhousing.
Luckily I've got some older truck knowledge to help with. '75 F350 with a V8 has 3 options. You've got either a 360, 390, or 460. The standard 4 speed could either be a NP435 or Warner T18. Both trannies are incredibly bulletproof. Unforuately, they're not geared right for a diesel engine. They're wide-ratio 4 speeds. They work great behind the great RPM range of a big block gaser. Not ideally geared for a low revving diesel. Although, there is a member here who does have a T18 behind an IDI and loves it. Can't recall any names right now...
T18 Wide Ratio - 1st gear-6.3, 2nd gear-3.1 3rd gear-1.7, 4th gear-1:1 Direct.
NP435 Wide Ratio - 1st gear-6.7, 2nd gear-3.4, 3rd gear-1.7, 4th gear-1:1 Direct.
The 6.9 came stock with a Close-Ratio T19. This is another cast iron trusty 4 speed. The big difference is the gearing. Although, two other notes-PTO ports on both sides and a synchr 1st gear.
T19 Close Ratio -1st gear-4:1, 2nd gear-2.4, 3rd gear-1.4, 4th gear-1:1 direct.
Now, for fitment into the truck...you do need to find/acquire/buy a DIESEL bellhousing. A gas engine bellhousing will not fit. The engine side bolt are different. But, the tranny side bolts are the same. All these 4 speeds are interchangable bolt-ups. This will be the toughest part of the swap if you're buddy's a good mechanic.
The interesting part. The close-ratio 4 speed is nice, but it lacks a nice low range. You might want to keep your wide-ratio tranny and buy a Gear Vendors Overdrive unit. This would allow you to "split" your gears AND give you an Overdrive. Start is 1st gear, split into 1st high, shift into 2nd, grab second high, you get the point. The gear vendors unit is electrically shifted, so no funny shifters to pull.
Might be too much useless info from one head to another...but don't be concerned about the transmission. It will bolt up. Be concerned with finding a bellhousing.
#13
10-25-2009, 10:13 PM
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So we will at least need the bell housing and it will bolt up? But we may not like the rpms turned. Will the bell housing from a factory 6.9 auto tranny bolt up to the T18.
Any takers on what we will need to do as far as like motor mounts and mounting locations or any clearance problems. We just want to know everything before we start investing too much. We can fab just about anything. (for example we took a 1950 chevy truck and transferred the cab to a 6500 series chasis the powerplant were're using is the chevy 6.5 turbo with dual 5 in. stacks running behind the cab and fabbed the fenders and hood to fold forward like a big rig.) So fabbing won't be an issue for us if it needs to be done.
What other issues would we run into during the swap? I researched threads and really didn't find any good info on the swap.
Any takers on what we will need to do as far as like motor mounts and mounting locations or any clearance problems. We just want to know everything before we start investing too much. We can fab just about anything. (for example we took a 1950 chevy truck and transferred the cab to a 6500 series chasis the powerplant were're using is the chevy 6.5 turbo with dual 5 in. stacks running behind the cab and fabbed the fenders and hood to fold forward like a big rig.) So fabbing won't be an issue for us if it needs to be done.
What other issues would we run into during the swap? I researched threads and really didn't find any good info on the swap.
#14
10-25-2009, 10:28 PM
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#15
10-26-2009, 03:32 PM
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Just as Farmert said - you'll need a bellhousing from a 6.9/4 speed truck. That's the tricky part because you'll have to search for '83 - '86 6.9 F250's and F350's. The last year of the 6.9 ('87), they used the 5 speed ZF5 which has an integral bellhousing.
There's a member here who put a 6.9 with a Banks turbo into a '67 F250. If you look through the 1967 F250 galleries you'll find it. The truck is white and gorgeous! He has a few pictures that'll gve you ideas. The '67 - 72 and '73 - '80 chassis are pretty similar if I recall. He's also doing another 6.9 transplant into another truck right now. I think he goes by 67banks6.9 or something...not positive...
Sounds like you guys are prettygood with fabrication. In that sense, I think you'll be fine for this project. Do it to it!
The '75 will have a crossmember similar to the '85. I wonder what kind of a project it would be to cut the rivets off the '75 engine crossmember and bolt in the '85 crossmember. Luckily, I have a frame without an engine. When i get home, I'll shoot you some measurements.
Do you know what V8 the '75 has? I'll reference the Chilton manual to see what the capacities are for the stock '75 radiator, compared to the diesel radiator. If it's close, that may be useable rather than fabbing the '85 radiator in.
You'll have fuel tank fun. The diesel sending unit has a return line. Maybe the diesel sending unit will fit the '75 gas tank? If not-fit the diesel tank under the '75. Or modify the gas-job sending unit by making a hybrid between the two sending units.
Wiring won't be too bad. It'll be a good time to wire the truck! Wiring in an auxilary fuse panel for future electronic devices would be a good idea. Otherwise, the IDI's don't require too many wires.
Driveshaft length. Depending on where your engine mounts up, you may need to shortern or lengthen your driveshaft a little bit.
Front coils. In the '80's style trucks the diesel-equipped rigs got beefier coils. Is the donor 2wd? Maybe the '85 diesel coils will fit in the '75 coil brackets...?
There's a member here who put a 6.9 with a Banks turbo into a '67 F250. If you look through the 1967 F250 galleries you'll find it. The truck is white and gorgeous! He has a few pictures that'll gve you ideas. The '67 - 72 and '73 - '80 chassis are pretty similar if I recall. He's also doing another 6.9 transplant into another truck right now. I think he goes by 67banks6.9 or something...not positive...
Sounds like you guys are prettygood with fabrication. In that sense, I think you'll be fine for this project. Do it to it!
The '75 will have a crossmember similar to the '85. I wonder what kind of a project it would be to cut the rivets off the '75 engine crossmember and bolt in the '85 crossmember. Luckily, I have a frame without an engine. When i get home, I'll shoot you some measurements.
Do you know what V8 the '75 has? I'll reference the Chilton manual to see what the capacities are for the stock '75 radiator, compared to the diesel radiator. If it's close, that may be useable rather than fabbing the '85 radiator in.
You'll have fuel tank fun. The diesel sending unit has a return line. Maybe the diesel sending unit will fit the '75 gas tank? If not-fit the diesel tank under the '75. Or modify the gas-job sending unit by making a hybrid between the two sending units.
Wiring won't be too bad. It'll be a good time to wire the truck! Wiring in an auxilary fuse panel for future electronic devices would be a good idea. Otherwise, the IDI's don't require too many wires.
Driveshaft length. Depending on where your engine mounts up, you may need to shortern or lengthen your driveshaft a little bit.
Front coils. In the '80's style trucks the diesel-equipped rigs got beefier coils. Is the donor 2wd? Maybe the '85 diesel coils will fit in the '75 coil brackets...?