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Old 10-14-2009, 10:45 PM
ranair57 ranair57 is offline
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Sparkplug change 2006 F150 5.4 liter

I have heard all sorts of horror stories about changing theses plugs and I had a service engine light come on. I took it to the dealer they put it on the engine analyzer and I had a P0303 code which they told me was a misfire on #3 cylinder.They cleared the code the light is out but I still have a slight miss in the engine. I purchased a coil for $50 and a set of plugs for $104. I intend to change the plugs and coil myself and I have been told that the end of the plug breaking off is almost a certainty.
I also understand that you can purchase a tool to remove this broken nose/electrode piece. The truck has only 85,000 km on it.
I intend to put never-seize on the plug and the metal nose piece as well prior to installation.
Any advice or enlightenment anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated.Anyone know if any jobbers carry the plug removal tool?
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:31 AM
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misfire code

Not to shake you up but I had a P0308 code which was misfire on #8 at low rpm... Removed coils and re-installed them in a criss cross patten to see if the code pointed to another cylinder: did not.This ruled out a bad coil. Next I replaced the plugs, which for me took 8 hours start to finish, which included 2 football games, dinner and a couple of beers. Most important point: TAKE YOUR TIME!!!
The P0308 & P0316 code returned and I did finally take it to a dealer. First dealer said "You need a new motor" and wanted $6,300 and having a "Certified Pre Owned Warranty" I left and went to another dealer. The second dealer wanted to do a compression check. I agreed and they concluded low compression in #8 cylinder. They then asked to pull the valve cover and check for a broken valve spring and again I agreed. By the way these steps were taken because until they could find an internal causing problem I was libel for the repair cost. With the valve cover off and no broken valve springs they ask to go one more step, remove the head and check the valves... I was reluctant but said ok. A couple of days went by and a call from the dealer said "We found the problem"... Asking to sit down first I then asked how much. I was told $100, the cost of your deductible...
It seemed that the valve guide is aluminum, but inside the valve guide is a plastic like seal that keeps the oil from going down into the cylinder. That wore and allowed the valve to offset itself hence not seat properly, hence low compression.
This is only my experience so don't get discouraged. Your issue may be a simple coil or plug... but I can be as serious as mine also.
Keep us informed on your progress.
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:18 AM
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Ryan50hrl Ryan50hrl is offline
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You may also want to return those motorcraft plugs and pick up a set of champion plugs if you plan on keeping the truck for a while....the champion plugs are one piece and won't break off the next time you do plugs again...
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Old 10-15-2009, 09:56 PM
ranair57 ranair57 is offline
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Thanks guys, I would appreciate any and all experiences and advise that others might have, like where can you purchase the lisle 65600 tool and how do the champion plugs perform and where can you purchase the champions?
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Old 10-23-2009, 03:58 PM
vpsr6 vpsr6 is offline
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I did the plugs on my 05 5.4 xlt supercab last summer with 38k miles on it, I got a little nervous after reading all the posts and I plan on keeping my truck till it dies. I am sure you will find a lot of other info here but I followed the TSB used lots of Kroil to soften and disolve the carbon. Take your time and let the Kroil work (the full recommended time) on loosening and disolving the carbon go slow on the removal and if you feel resistance go screw it back in and squirt a bit more Kroil. The Champions came out after I did mine so I will have to do them again soon.
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Old 10-24-2009, 08:39 PM
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I have an 06 FX4 and i have 68K on my truck... i know i have to do the plugs.... i'm scarred.. i pull alot with my truck and work it hard... . This truck has been flaw less for me... I love it... no noises at all out of the engin.... i have used 93 oct gas for over 2 years and i feel that has a good impact to the engin.... plugs are coming up soon...

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Old 10-25-2009, 03:35 PM
mercman78 mercman78 is offline
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I just had my plugs changed on my 2006 5.4.I only had 37,000 miles when mine were changed and 4 still broke off.I also had complained of a tick noise when the engine was hot.(i had complained of this many times with no answer,even after new phaser gears)I had them install new champion plugs at cost of over $600.00!!!After the new plugs were installed I noticed the engine was much smoother and that damn tick was finnaly gone!!!!The new Champion plugs were about $120.00 more than the factory crap ones,but I plan on keeping this truck untill it dies...so I went with the better plug and I am completely satisfied!!!
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Old 10-25-2009, 04:53 PM
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Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddedprairie View Post
etc ... i have used 93 oct gas for over 2 years and i feel that has a good impact to the engin.... plugs are coming up soon...
Believe what you want if it makes you feel good, but using the 93 octane fuel has impacted your wallet negatively while in no way positively impacting your 5.4.

Fact is, using higher octane fuel in these motors which are designed to operate on 87 octane fuel can even negatively impact the engine in time with increased deposits.

There is no "extra power" in 93 octane fuel, there are no "extra cleaning agents" in it either. Higher octane simply refers to an increased resistance to preignition brought on by higher compression ratios or advanced timing or higher operating temperatures or super / turbo charging. The 93 octane lets you increase compression ratios, advance timing curves, or super charge or turbo charge the motor.

This increased octane is not more volitile, it's less volitile. It is harder to ignite, it's more resistant to ignition all else remaining equal. It performs well when increased compression pressures or advanced timing cause lower octane fuels to pre igniote uncontrolably before their plug fires or simply explode when it fires. Timing curves fire a plugbefore a piston reaches top dead center, while it's still compressing more, and a controled burn is what is needed. Not too fast, not too slow either as you don't need fuel burning after the piston is half way down the cylinder after TDC.

Higher octane is the result of additives that hinder or slow the ignition of the fuel. No extra power. It just lets you design a motor with higher compression, more timing, greater push on the piston when it tops over at TDC and goes down on the powerstroke.

When used in a lower compression motor, with factory timing, etc, the 93 octane at best, will make the same power as the 87 octane. There is a good chance that it may not perform as well, returning lower mileage even, due to it's formulated higher resistance to ignition which can slow it's full ignition when that plug fires, effectively acting like retarded ignition timing.

It can likewise, leave added deposits as it's full flame is later then in the combustion cycle, and thus cooler.

Not saying you'ld notice it so much in your 5.4, but I've had this same conversation with others using higher test gas in motors set up to operate on 87 octane, and have had more than one come back later and tell me they see an increase in mileage and even better response.

I have a '92 Thunderbird Sport 302 that I purchased with just over 130,000 actual miles, new trans and paint, well maintained car ... lady (it was"her" car, not "his") and her husband who were original owners said they always had used 93 octane in it and told me to be sure to because it didn't run right on 87. I said I thought it said in the manual that 87 was correct, they told me no.

I didn't argue, just brought it home, looked in book, yep, 87 is fine. I tried a couple more tanks on 93, then switched to 87 octane after accumulating some real history of mileage records and getting a feel for the car. My mileage with 87 was a full half MPG better over same loop time after time, car feels pretty much same, never pings on 87. I live out in country, nearest town is 12 miles, we often go to one of two larger cities which are an hour each way, north or south. Loops are road miles, sometimes interstate, sometimes not.

It's an old wives tale that high test = better. Only when the engine is set up for the need of higher octane is it betterto use, and then it's usually necessary to use (unless equipped with nock sensors to retard timing when 87 is used, like our '94-'06 LT-1 Caprice police cars were, they did run much better in lower two gears with 93, but it was because timing was advanced and nock sensors allowed them to, in high gear when engine gained rpms slower, when timing was on a slower curve, the 87 ran just as good).
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranair57 View Post
Thanks guys, I would appreciate any and all experiences and advise that others might have, like where can you purchase the lisle 65600 tool and how do the champion plugs perform and where can you purchase the champions?

I believe this post here answers your question.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/90...oval-tool.html
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