I have a 64 F-100 that has seen a lot of years outside. Luckily the majority of the rust is just surface rust that isn't pitted.
About 20 years ago (was 1989 really 20 years ago) I was restoring a 69 Nova with the same issue. At that time my dad and I got a solvent that was sold in metal gallon jugs that you could put in a plastic spray bottle and spray on. The rust would basically melt off. After a few minutes you would hose it off with normal water and it would leave a sort of white residue on the metal that would protect it a little until you painted it.
I know that it wasn't muratic acid, but we cannot remember what it was or find anything like it. I am sure that the stuff was outlawed because it was too effective (and it was most likely very toxic), but I was wondering if anyone out there knows of a product like this.
You might be thinking of a product called Ospho,..or some phosphoric acid. I 've heard of it,looked for it in a lot of places, but never could actually find the stuff...makes me wonder if it really exists, or just not available in my area. LoL! Good Luck! Try your local HD or Lowes paint dept, maybe local paint suppliers, the product name comes up alot and have heard good things about it.Good Luck!
What your looking for sounds like what they claim to be selling / or using here. I have never dealt with the people here just ween there add on CL one day.
Hope it helps.
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1986 F150 4X4 351 4vHO It was a 300 I6 RIP Totaled Hit a probe with the snow plow
1988 F150 4X2 302EFI and 35's Still under 100000 orginal miles.
1989 F250 4X4 351W EFI Basket Case.
1991 F250 4X4 351W EFI More rust then metal.
About 20 years ago (was 1989 really 20 years ago) I was restoring a 69 Nova with the same issue. At that time my dad and I got a solvent that was sold in metal gallon jugs that you could put in a plastic spray bottle and spray on. The rust would basically melt off. After a few minutes you would hose it off with normal water and it would leave a sort of white residue on the metal that would protect it a little until you painted it.
I know that it wasn't muratic acid, but we cannot remember what it was or find anything like it. I am sure that the stuff was outlawed because it was too effective (and it was most likely very toxic), but I was wondering if anyone out there knows of a product like this.
Thanks for all the information... that Phosphoric Acid sounds to be the stuff. Gearloose1, thanks for the wikipedia link. Although it is interesting that they explain how it is used for rust removal then the next paragraph is how it is used in food, especially Cola. Crazy... I think I will stick to Beer .
It sounds like you used something similar to our Fast Etch. This can be sprayed or brushed applied, or parts can be dipped in it to remove the rust.
Funny that you bring that up. I know I used a liquid 20 years ago to swish around the inside on my Mustang trunk lid to neutralize the surface rust and it still looks good. Was from Eastwood. Yet 20 years later you have many more products to deal with rust and it can get confusing how they are different. Case in point would be your Fast Etch and your Rust Converter. Both are liquids that come in 1 gallon containers. Maybe you could enlighten us over why one type would be preferred over the other and in what situations?
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Mike
1968 Cougar 302-4V
1968 Mustang 289-2V
1967 Parklane 410-4V
1965 F-100 360-2V
1943 USS Hornet/1945 TBM3E Avenger
In regards to your question about our various rust products, it is always best to remove rust (mechanical methods such as abrasive blasting, chemical removal, or cut-out and replace). Fast Etch and our Rust Dissolver are both chemicals that remove rust (the Fast Etch is acid-based, quicker, and leaves behind a phospate coating. Rust Dissolver is a gentler acid-free rust remover that generally won't harm rubber, plastic, copper or chrome). There are some situations where it is not possible to remove the rust, which is where our Rust Converter and Rust Encapsulator are best used.
Here is a good write up on our forum that one of our techs did about our different rust products and where/when to use them (the thread is a few years back and the links need to be updated to point to our new site, but the content is good).
Glad to hear about your postive experience on your Mustang trunk lid. You likely used OxiSolv, which we replaced with our Fast Etch a few years back. As a sidenote, we've found that Fast Etch also works well for etching galvanized plating, which allows painting (Keep in mind that a mild chemical reaction will occur when the Fast Etch attacks the plating and will give off some unpleasant fumes, so be sure you are in a ventilated area. Leave the Fast Etch on the surface for about 5 minutes then rinse it with warm water to neutralize the reaction).
In regards to your question about our various rust products, it is always best to remove rust (mechanical methods such as abrasive blasting, chemical removal, or cut-out and replace). Fast Etch and our Rust Dissolver are both chemicals that remove rust (the Fast Etch is acid-based, quicker, and leaves behind a phospate coating. Rust Dissolver is a gentler acid-free rust remover that generally won't harm rubber, plastic, copper or chrome). There are some situations where it is not possible to remove the rust, which is where our Rust Converter and Rust Encapsulator are best used.
Here is a good write up on our forum that one of our techs did about our different rust products and where/when to use them (the thread is a few years back and the links need to be updated to point to our new site, but the content is good).
Glad to hear about your postive experience on your Mustang trunk lid. You likely used OxiSolv, which we replaced with our Fast Etch a few years back. As a sidenote, we've found that Fast Etch also works well for etching galvanized plating, which allows painting (Keep in mind that a mild chemical reaction will occur when the Fast Etch attacks the plating and will give off some unpleasant fumes, so be sure you are in a ventilated area. Leave the Fast Etch on the surface for about 5 minutes then rinse it with warm water to neutralize the reaction).
I am in the early stages of de-rusting my 1979 F-350. The gutter over the doors has rust showing and I wonder if using your fast etch would be a way of seeing how bad the rust is without resorting to sanding off the paint? If you have a suggestion I will try which of your products you suggest and whichever method would be best. Thanks
Fast Etch will do a great job at removing the rust, but it needs to be applied to the rust. For heavy rust removal, you can apply the Fast Etch to a rag or paper towel and then cover it with plastic wrap to keep it from evaporating (this will keep the surface wet and allow the product to remove all of the rust).
Fast Etch will do a great job at removing the rust, but it needs to be applied to the rust. For heavy rust removal, you can apply the Fast Etch to a rag or paper towel and then cover it with plastic wrap to keep it from evaporating (this will keep the surface wet and allow the product to remove all of the rust).
Fast Etch will do a great job at removing the rust, but it needs to be applied to the rust. For heavy rust removal, you can apply the Fast Etch to a rag or paper towel and then cover it with plastic wrap to keep it from evaporating (this will keep the surface wet and allow the product to remove all of the rust).
Keep us posted on the progress with your '79!
Good tip on using plastic to keep it wet - thanks!!
Fast Etch will do a great job at removing the rust, but it needs to be applied to the rust. For heavy rust removal, you can apply the Fast Etch to a rag or paper towel and then cover it with plastic wrap to keep it from evaporating (this will keep the surface wet and allow the product to remove all of the rust).
Keep us posted on the progress with your '79!
I do a lot of restoration work - both privately and as a business. Deep rust is best removed completely with physical methods (cutting, grinding, wire wheel), but often some will remain or surface rust must be dealt with.
As for neutralizing rust, I use a product called Metal Ready, from the POR15 line. It's basically Phosporic Acid, as I'm guessing is Fast Etch. The key to any of these products is leaving it on (wet!) long enough to turn the rust black, then to nuetralize it (rinse with water), wipe it with a wax&grease remover, then dry and prime it - with or without a rust inhibitor/preventor product.
I placed an order with Eastwood today. Hopefully the fastetch will list the percentages of the contents. If it was a high phosphoric acid content I could use it to re-parkerize my 1911 pistols.
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) I was restoring a 69 Nova with the same issue. At that time my dad and I got a solvent that was sold in metal gallon jugs that you could put in a plastic spray bottle and spray on. The rust would basically melt off. After a few minutes you would hose it off with normal water and it would leave a sort of white residue on the metal that would protect it a little until you painted it.
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