How long should our trucks be plugged in for? I know at work the big trucks stay plugged in whenever they're not running, but those are 13 liter motors. It was about 30 degrees here this morning so last night I had it set to a timer so it would kick on at about 3:45 a.m (I leave for work at about 6:45). Should it stay plugged in all night when it gets real cold? I thought about setting the timer to cycle on and off every half hour or hour when it gets parked for the day thinking it would keep the motor for the most part as warm as if it were idling the whole time (and wondered if that would hurt the heater element), but thats just one of my hairbrained theories. Any thoughts?
__________________ 2nd Amendment: protector of the rest!!! 2002 Dakota 4.7L-demoted-108k miles 1992 F-350 4X4 7.3L IDI E4OD 4:10LS -124k miles daily driver 1978 F-150 4X4 4spd 351 Holley 600/Edelbrock P-400 (work in progress)
I've heard that these trucks should only be plugged in for about 2-3 hours at a time. I don't really see how it would help all that much to leave it plugged in constantly as 2-3 hours of heat should be plenty to warm things up. I could be wrong here but i beleive it's really your preferance. (depending on how many watts your heater is) I've heard of trucks burning up...literally..due to people leaving them plugged in. Hopefully one of the Daves will comment on this. There was a forum last week on this so check that out too.
Just set the timer for a couple of hours before start time, That is all you need. You will save on the electricity bill also. When it gets real cold (under 10) I set it for 3 hours.
In the winter (for snow plowing) I keep my truck on a timer, I have it come on at 5:00am and turn off 9:00 am. It saves on electric and if I need it in the morning it starts easily and has heat quickly. I have friends that leave them plugged in 24/7
Mine is plugged when it gets down to freezing temps.
I adapted a 240V water heater timer to click on an hour before I need to head out and the interior heater works right away rather than taking 15 minutes.
Also, be aware that the stock wiring sucks and will wear out because it's being flexed and pulled every time you use it.
My block heater started buzzing real loud a week before it failed.
I though it was the heater in the block but it tested ok.
I replaced the stock cord with a piece of heavy extension cord.
I also made a recessed plug (crude as it it) mounted in the center of the grill where the blue oval used to be.
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
Until I get my new garage wired properly, I have a 15AMP timer plugged into an outlet and a drop cord to the truck from it. I have the timer set for 5am and off at 7. I usually leave for work around 6-6:30. My truck fires like a champ, with as little as 1hr of heating!
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93 F250 7.3 NA, Now sporting a ZF 5!, Super Cab, Long Bed 4.10's 255,000 miles
87 F250 6.9 NA, C6, Super Cab, Long Bed 3.55's ?19,000 miles.. Slower than a herd of turtles stampeding through peanut butter
How cold does it get in West Virginia? Also, if your gonna have the truck in a garage (or if you already do) it makes a HUGE difference. Parking out of the wind puts you at an advantage right off. One morning last winter my Dodge was parked out on the prairie with -20 temps and -40 wind chills, it BARELEY started; the next night was parked behind a shed out of the wind and fired just fine...
__________________ 2nd Amendment: protector of the rest!!! 2002 Dakota 4.7L-demoted-108k miles 1992 F-350 4X4 7.3L IDI E4OD 4:10LS -124k miles daily driver 1978 F-150 4X4 4spd 351 Holley 600/Edelbrock P-400 (work in progress)
Block heater run from 500 to 1500 watts for the IDI engine from what I have seen over the years.
If you have a 1500 watt heater, leaving it plugged in all night will have the electric meter spinning, and proably your head when you get the electric bill.
Also if you do have a 1500 watt heater, a 15 amp timer is not really big enough, should be a 20 amp timer.
And don't plug in using a 14 or 16 gauge extension cord 100 feet long.
12 AWG wires, 50 feet long is abot the max.
If you have to go longer, 10 AWG for 100 feet.
I use a timer when the forcast is clear, on all night when there is snow in the forcast so the truck is ready anytime I need to go plow.
By 5 AM I am usually almost 1/2 way done with my lots, I am usually out the door at 2 AM.
How cold in WV?
30 for a low tonight is the forcast locally.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
How cold does it get in West Virginia? Also, if your gonna have the truck in a garage (or if you already do) it makes a HUGE difference. Parking out of the wind puts you at an advantage right off. One morning last winter my Dodge was parked out on the prairie with -20 temps and -40 wind chills, it BARELEY started; the next night was parked behind a shed out of the wind and fired just fine...
That's a heuge wifes tale. It's a scientifically proven fact that metal does NOT feel wind chill. Google it. Your engine will only get as cold as the ambient temp. NOT the wind chill temp.
I get a kick outta peeps, and what they consider cold. It's been 20 degree's here for the last week. I haven't even thought about plugging in My trucks yet. When it gets to 0 or below, then I set them on a timer for 3 hrs. They start just fine. I just fire them up an place a special board I cut. I wedge that on the accelerator pedal, and let it idle 1200 RPM's. I get heat in 5 minutes.
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93 F One Fiddy- 5.0/AOD/3.55 230K OEM
93 F Two Fiddy Scab- 7.3/ZF5/3.55/Sidewinder II,94 Turbo pump,G Inj's, Velvet Ride, Ride Rite Rear, Turbo Bumper, Alcoa's
85 F Two Fiddy-6.9/C6/3.54/ Holley Red, Racor, Soup Bowl,AutoJet 3",Ride Rite Rear
That's a heuge wifes tale. It's a scientifically proven fact that metal does NOT feel wind chill. Google it. Your engine will only get as cold as the ambient temp. NOT the wind chill temp.
I get a kick outta peeps, and what they consider cold. It's been 20 degree's here for the last week. I haven't even thought about plugging in My trucks yet. When it gets to 0 or below, then I set them on a timer for 3 hrs. They start just fine. I just fire them up an place a special board I cut. I wedge that on the accelerator pedal, and let it idle 1200 RPM's. I get heat in 5 minutes.
You are correct unless the metal is wet. Wind increases evaporation, which cools whatever the liquid is touching. Same reason we feel wind chill, b/c the moisture in our skin is evaporating quicker.
I live in the Yukon Territory, Canada. It can get cold here. I find a maximum of 4 hours is lots. I'm a volunteer fireman and I simply don't use the diesel to respond when it's cold because I insist on warming the engine before the truck moves. I don't leave it plugged in all of the time, just set the timer for an appropriate length of time before I plan to use the truck.
On the topic of wind chill, heat can not be removed from something that doesn't have any heat, like cold metal. Your engine does have heat if it has been running, so parking it in a shelter can preserve some of the heat for longer. Wind chill effect of minus 40 for instance, means that exposed skin will freeze as fast as in minus 40 when calm, because your body has heat to lose.
In extreme cold I use some canvas tarp to cover my grill so that the wind effect is just dampened, so to speak. I have a winter front that I can't use as the fan will not pull any air through it. Opening the vents doesn't cut it.
I have mine on a timer, I have to be at work at 9 am, I usually leave about 8:35-8:45, so I set the timer to come on at 6 and go off at 9. That way the truck gets heated up, and then I can leave the end of the extension cord laying outside the garage door without any big worries.
__________________ 1994 F250 XLT-Reg cab, 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo, manual hubs. 4" intake tube, ATS upgrade, 4" exhaust w/ Walker 21172, boost & pyro on pillar, Autodim mirror, 16x8 MB Razor wheels w/285/75R16 "MT-R's" 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe-Lots of fun stuff to make it go fast & take corners 2008 V-Star 1100 Midnight Custom-Just Cobra slip-on drag pipes for now
Has anyone used dual coil (or self regulating) GP for cold start? Seems like if you just turned these plugs on (manual control obviously), waited for them to get hot and left them on during cold start, you wouldn't need to plug it in. Modern deisels can start at -20F unassisted. Anyone know?
You can start on just GP's, I have plenty of times. But, the block heater warms up the coolant and the oil (to some extent) and I think it's better to start a warm engine on a cold day than a cold engine with thick cold oil. Plus you get the heat blowing a lot faster!
__________________ 1994 F250 XLT-Reg cab, 4x4, 5 speed, 7.3 IDI Turbo, manual hubs. 4" intake tube, ATS upgrade, 4" exhaust w/ Walker 21172, boost & pyro on pillar, Autodim mirror, 16x8 MB Razor wheels w/285/75R16 "MT-R's" 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe-Lots of fun stuff to make it go fast & take corners 2008 V-Star 1100 Midnight Custom-Just Cobra slip-on drag pipes for now
Do you have single coil gp's? I have an early 6.9 and I don't want to use the block heater for fear of cracking the block, but I also don't want to buy an inline coolant heater for the heater hoses.
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