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Is F-150 Still King?
 
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2009, 09:48 PM
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therifleman556 therifleman556 is offline
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Originally Posted by fonefiddy View Post
Any diesel engine won't properly heat up @ 650 RPM's, if You idle the engine @ 1200 You'll get the engine warm in a few mins.
I've given that some thought and I was hoping I could come up with what the big rigs have where you can set the cruise control while parked and idle the engine at whatever speed you want. Anyone know how the cruise control module can be fooled into thinking the truck is moving so this could be done? I dont even know where the module is and it doesn't work anyway so I'd have some additional figuring to do...
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2009, 10:51 PM
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I just block the pedal with a piece of abs pipe to the seat. Any other number of devices will work, the pipe was just handy.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2009, 10:54 PM
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therifleman556 therifleman556 is offline
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I was hoping for something not so redneck.
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2002 Dakota 4.7L-demoted-108k miles
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1978 F-150 4X4 4spd 351 Holley 600/Edelbrock P-400 (work in progress)
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2009, 11:48 PM
archangel archangel is offline
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An old solenoid from a carb set at the right length would work.
I think they called it a fast idle solenoid.
You would just flip the switch on the dash and it would push or pull the throttle lever enough to do it.
Mount it near the FIPL.
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2009, 08:11 AM
fonefiddy fonefiddy is offline
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There's a way to wire the High Idle Solenoid to a switch. It's listed over at OB.net

I must be redneck, cause I just use the abs pipe to the seat method
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2009, 12:59 PM
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You could wire the fast idle solenoid for manual control, just supply 12 volts to the terminal on it with a manual switch.

Then adjust the solenoid to give the desired RPM.

Back in the 80's the semi's used manual throttle cables to keep the RPM higher or solenoids that were preset to a specific RPM.

With the modern computer controlled engines, if so equipped, you can dial in any RPM you want to maintain.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2009, 07:50 PM
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Tank-type Engine Heaters - JCWhitney

I bought the 1500 Watt unit for my '65 F350 with a gas burner. And yes, they are the Zerostart brand. Last two winter's i have left it plugged in overnight. The next morning is instant heat. Just turn the key to accessory and hit the fan motor and you get hit with heat. I liked the concept of having the water cycle rather than have the heat in a concentrated area. I'm going to be buying another one pretty quick for my 6.9...don't want to crack my early 6.9 block! Install was straight-forward and simple. 2 hours gave good results.

My neighbor has a few newer International roll-back tow trucks. He just leaves his rigs in neutral, sets the brake, cranks his accelerator enough for the hydraulics to run quick, and sets his cruise control.
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:24 PM
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didnt want to start another thread on the topic

but could anyone give me a website or store that sells these outdoor extension cords with the timers, i dont know if you have to buy a timer seperately or are they built in. im worried in the winter time when it gets real cold i dont want the electric bill going sky high leaving the truck plugged in all night. im a first time owner of a f-250 7.3L diesel 2000 and would love some answers. thanks
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:12 PM
archangel archangel is offline
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Just get a cheap water heater timer and add either the primary extension cord, or an outlet box to it.
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Gray 1991 F250 standard cab, 7.3, E4OD, 3.55:1, stock wheels and tires.
Verified 19 mpg city taking off slow as hell the shutting down at red lights, and with the radiator grill blocked flush, no bed cover, "drag shoot" mirrors on I get 24 mpg at 50 to 55 mph on the freeway empty!
However, with a bed cover, no mirrors and Hydroxy
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle View Post
You could wire the fast idle solenoid for manual control, just supply 12 volts to the terminal on it with a manual switch.
If you do go this route, you should put a diode in between the fast idle and timing solenoids. This way when you toggle a switch to idle up, your not also changing the timing. Not good with drawing pictures or schematics. Maybe someone that is can post what I mean.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 10:51 PM
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Until the engine temp reaches 112 degrees, the timing advance will be on anyway.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2009, 06:00 AM
fonefiddy fonefiddy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87crewdually View Post
If you do go this route, you should put a diode in between the fast idle and timing solenoids. This way when you toggle a switch to idle up, your not also changing the timing. Not good with drawing pictures or schematics. Maybe someone that is can post what I mean.
It's all layed out over at OBN
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85 F Two Fiddy-6.9/C6/3.54/ Holley Red, Racor, Soup Bowl,AutoJet 3",Ride Rite Rear

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