I have a 91 f150 2wd. I pulled a code that shows the egr was working incorrectly. i went ahead and replaced the position sensor, no CEL now, but still hesitant when accelerating. I then replaced the valve itself and the gasket. again, no change in my lacking performance. Ive found that the truck is more responsive and runs a hell of a lot better with either the position sensor unplugged and/or the vac line unhooked. The CEL is on at this point. Anyone got any ideas? Im fresh out

 

Leave it unhooked unless you got smog laws to worry about. The EGR is unneccisary for obdII to run properly you may just have to learn to live with a blinking light.

 

first off, just plain hi, listen, i really want to jump this thread and heres why, but i gotta give you the readers digest version because i love this stuff, nd i get long winded. for the record, among our other stuff, i have an e-350 van with the mighty 300 6 that has been my right arm for over 15 years. been through many egrs. i cant go into legal smog test different state stuff, thats every mans personal descision. but i do know this. rjm injection technoliges. found this co on the 335 series forum sells an egr block off plate PLUS a trick little plug for the harness that tricks your computer into thinking your egr is installed and functioning, in todays world you have to keep the computer happy or you can get mired in sensor issues. i really think you should just check it out. you never know. good luck paul md.

 

where can i get the egr plate and plug

 

I've got a 94 E250 and btw all these 300s are obdI.
But common is the upper intake manifold to get caked up at the egr passage, so not performing as the computer expects.
When I had mine off, it was almost plugged, from previous owner 200k miles. So I took a little die grinder and half *** smoothed everything up in the plenum and egr passage.
Don't know if it would help, but might be worth a look.

 

start up the engine and put a vacume line from the engine into a can of seafoam and let it run for a minute or two then shut off the engine and let it soak over night it will take care of most of that carbon. the other cheaper way is to get the engine at a fast idle and trickle water down the intake it will steam clean the inside of the intake or just take it apart and clean the passage out with a die grinder and a screw driver be sure to vacume up all the carbon or it will get stuck in the engine.

 

I blocked off my egr 6 months ago in a pinch because I couldn't get a new egr in a timely manner anf mine had a major leak or was no longer holding pressure at idle. It smoothed idle immediately. 4 months ago I got a new valve for inspection. Yesterday after a week of frustrated diagnostics I yanked it off again, bypassed the solenoid and again immediately fixed the idle. 4 month old egr was completely caked. Leading me to believe that something else is wrong causing the waste gate to open at idle and at temps where the excess NOx doesn't get burned off. It works without it, I'm leaving it off.

 

If the passages are plugged get your self an old speedo cable. Take the end and beat it with a hammer. This will cause speedo cable strand to sticking out. Put the good side in a drill and feed it into the passages. As you are going stop and blow it out and continue.
Add some carb cleaner at times and soak the passage then use the speedo cable again. Have used this hundreds of times. Workers great it's like a plumbing snake for carbon