so i have sifted through the forms on many sites and i have come up with the final answer for people with the following 4x4 switch.
A4wd 4HI 4LOW
the solution is as follows:
1. Pull out Fuse 104 from under the hood.
2. check that your 4x4 is disengaged.
3. Check to see what side the power comes from in the fuse slot you just removed
4. Attach a "stake on" on a wire on the power side of the male part of the fuse panel in the slot where you removed the fuse.
5. Mid wire splice in a 30 amp inline fuse.
6. Continue that line to one side of a disruptor switch.
7. Attach a "stake on" to a wire
8. Attach that wire to the other side of the slote of the fuse that you removed.
9. Run the wire to the other side of the disruptor switch.
10. Reattach en removed paneling
That is it you r done
when the switch is in the off position there will be no power to the 4x4 so it would be as if you had no 4x4.
when in the on position it will return the power to the stock switch as if you did nothing
NOW I WOULD NOT FLIP THE SWITCH WELL IN DRIVE I WOULD ONLY FLIP THE SWITCH WHEN IN NEUTRAL OR PARK.
because in my case i have a heavy foot and if it is a little wet and i am on an on ramp to the hwy in the last bit of it i step on it and the boom goes the dynamite the rear end slips a little, a4wd kicks in and out till you get traction and that cant be good @ 100 or 80 km/h or @ ne speed for that matter, and ford must of relized that because look b4 1999 (i think) and after 2002 (i think) the trucks came with 2hi/A4wd/4Hi/4Lo or 2hi/4hi/4low. so that has to tell you something they know that they "f" ed up so i and many others r lookin for a solution
I went through the whole thread where you found the answer as well. I still do not see any reason to mess with it. There are a bunch of armchair mechanics saying "it just can't be good" but not a single person knows why. If there had been a rash of t-case failures, that would be a good reason, but there has not been.
I took a different route and read up on the t-case itself. There is some good literature out there from the manufacturer Borg Warner. What you are experiencing is NORMAL. That is what the case is designed to do. The case uses variable engagement on purpose, this is in no way harmful as some seem to have conjured up in their minds. Just because it is different, doesn't mean there was an error made. They most likely offered a new and better feature only to be met by protesting consumers who didn't know any better, so they went backwards to satisfy rather than take on the painful fruitless task of education.
Glad you found a solution. Too bad there wasn't really a problem.
__________________ 1999 Expedition XLT, big and green, 5.4, 4x4, 285/70-17 Dunlop MT's, factory skid plates, magnaflow muffler.
well that is good infromation to have thanks it is good that we can all help each other out, i am only looking to not hurt my truck and everyone is thanks man
well that is good infromation to have thanks it is good that we can all help each other out, i am only looking to not hurt my truck and everyone is thanks man
I agree. I don't need to be buying a t-case anytime soon either. Thing is, I haven't heard of a single one failing and our trucks are 10 years old. They must be pretty durable.
I would also prefer a different design. I do not like at all the idea that the front and rear are linked by clutches. I use mine off-road quite a bit and no matter how good they are, clutches slip. I can hear funny noises when in low going down steep hills. So my needs were the opposite, I want an actual full mechanical lock up not just a clutch pack in 100% duty mode.
I think the key is probably regular fluid changes with the correct fluid to keep the clutch pack in good shape.
__________________ 1999 Expedition XLT, big and green, 5.4, 4x4, 285/70-17 Dunlop MT's, factory skid plates, magnaflow muffler.
Doing what I do for a living I saw an immediate use for this. Granted it's not something that is going to be of any concern to most of you, but there is a definite use.
Have any of you read the warning about how if the vehicle is put on a dyno that the dyno has to be specifically designed for 4x4 applications? Well, this would solve that, correct? We don't have anyone anywhere near here who has a 4x4 dyno setup.
tehe nope no burn outs for me now cause i just put on 850$ in new rubber 32 trail diggers
n i stoped at a ford dealer today and he said the only thing that will happen to by pullin the fuse is you will eventually seize hub and gears and motors so if you did do this mod you would be smart to run it in stock just as much as 2wd because the computer cycles the 4x4 on and off for self maintinience
I don't see how it would hurt anything to run in 2wd. The dealer is wrong, typical of most of them.
As mentioned in your first post, this t-case originally came with a 2wd switch, and later went back to having a 2wd switch. The t-case hasn't changed, just the controls. I would also like that dealer to explain how the hubs are going to fail? The front driveshafts are directly splined through the hubs, they turn all the time regardless of the t-case setting, as does the front diff and front driveshaft. So everything is moving all the time regardless. The only change is the level of engagement on the clutch pack, and that isn't going to wear anything out.
It is a crying shame how much bad information dealers give out.
__________________ 1999 Expedition XLT, big and green, 5.4, 4x4, 285/70-17 Dunlop MT's, factory skid plates, magnaflow muffler.
I would also like to add one more item to the list of knowing which fuse controls the TC. If for some reason you have a flat, your tires that are on your truck are well worn or a different size than the spare and you must put on the spare to get home, pulling the fuse will keep a lot of ware or damage to your transfer case. I have read on here quite a while ago how one poster ruined his transfer case because he drove a long distance with a different size tire compared to the rest. The TC kept trying to cut in because the speed sensors kept reading a different speed front from the rear. Just my .02 worth.
big greenie your are absolutly right ..i too would like it explained how pulling a fuse is going to cause my hub bearings to go bad. if the trucks with the a4wd are set up with some kind of clutches for engagement then just because they act different does not mean its bad like greenie said just different. the clutches are there to engauge the system as well as to absorb some of the shock of coming on and off.
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Auto 4X4 TO 2wd final answer
1999 Expedition XLT, big and green, 5.4, 4x4, 285/70-17 Dunlop MT's, factory skid plates, magnaflow muffler.
