Shoot AX, considering that the truck is 58 years old now and everything on the danged thing that can be replaced is NEW with less than 6500 miles on it, I'm sure hoping I'll get 180K on it without having to change a whole lot other than belts, fluids, and brake parts.

You must be a very good driver. I've never gotten any more than 40K miles out of a set of drum brake shoes and the discs on my Ranger wear out at 25k! And I'm really (honest) not that hard on the brakes.

I used to have a Celica. It was indestructable. I loved the 22R engine and I have to say I am VERY impressed with the Toyota Product! I'd sell a kidney to be able to afford a new Toyota Truck instead of the Ranger. (unfortunately, the word has gotten out on those kidneys - liver too)

 

Yes there is a happy medium,………………………….for a least ten reasons that I can think of ,……………..now is time for you to upgrade to a DISC BRAKE CONVERSION!

 

Our Celi is a 2002, the last generation. We did go thru 2 trannys and two clutches in it tho. The MR2 Spyder was a piece of junk. The Celica GTS engine is still going stong in the Lotuses.
I have always gotten good brake life, and I must have set a good example for my wife as well since she drives (and races) all our vehicles as well. It's too early to tell on the Sierra how well it's brakes will do since most of it's miles is with a 24' enclosed car trailer in tow.

 

I thought very seriously about it before I started this. But I'm happy with the brake response I get using the stock brakes, and decided to stay with them, that is before I saw the cracking. Those shoes are going back to the guys who sold them to me and there's going to be a "Julie talk."

And at this point I'm not about to start over with new spindles and kingpin bushings. But your point is well taken, and I agree. "If Iknew then what I know now........"

I took the truck out on the freeway today and OMG it was HORRIBLE! It vibrated so hard at 45 I couldn't go any faster. But I wasn't really worried because I hadn't done anything with the alignment since replacing all the parts....I was hoping I'd just get lucky. Naaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh!

So I brought it home and called th ealignment shop to see how much the toe check would be...$100 bucks.....three days away from putting on new springs - forget it Mac!

So, I wnet out to th egarage and cut a 2x2 about 2 inches short of the distance between the tires and stapled a piece of pull chain (like from a light socket) long enough to reach the ground on both sides.

I slid the board between the fram and springs and up against the center of the tire. Then I cut th echain on both sides to garage floor length.

I took the metal rule out of my "Square" and "C" clamped it to the board with board snug up against one tire and th eedge of the ruler up against the other.

Then I moved it to the back half of the tire. Stupid thing was toed OUT about 1/4 inch!!!!!!

So I loosened the tie rod clamps gave it a vcoupel twists and got it to a point hwere I could roll it a couple feet and it stayed toe in where I wanted it. I set it at about 5/32 to 3/16 toe in, and tightened the clamps. Quick recheck and was off to the freeway.

Smooth as glass! Pulls to the right a little. I'm sure that new axel will need some bending....After the springs. (might be that bad spring on the right side is causing the pull too)

It took just one and a half rotations of the tie rod to makle the full adjustment from 1/4 out to 3/16 in. Very sensative. And it changed when I rolled it after adjusting so I had to finess it a couple of times.

So, now it's driveable to work over the weekend.

($100 bucks to check the toe..."But it's all computerized Miss"...!!!!! Idiot)

 

Here's the way we set toe on the race car:
I made two 1/4" aluminum plates slightly wider than the tire diameter, and slightly higher than the radius of the tire. With the car on a relatively level surface and the wheels straight we roll the car forwards and back ~ 2' finishing after going forwards. We put the car in gear with the emergency brake on. We then set a plate flat and centered against the wheel and tire on each side so that it is contacting the tire front, back, and bottom. We place a shot bag (a brick would do) against the plates to hold them in place. We pull a tape measurement across the plates ~ 2" off the pavement, outside of plate to outside of plate front and back at the same height. the difference in the two measurements is the total toe. I have made a modification to my plates where I made a 3/4" deep horizontal saw cuts 2" from the bottom edge at the front and rear of each plate. I slide the blade of two matching tape measures into the slots with the tab of the tapes tight against the outside of one of the plates and in the slots of the plate on the other side. the curve of the blade holds the tapes snug in the slots and I can read the tapes, see the difference in the measurements and make adjustments with just one person. Roll the car after adjusting like at the beginning and check the measurement one last time to verify. If anyone is interested I can explain our version of poor man's swivel plates as well so you don't have to roll the vehicle.

 

Oh yea, the dreaded "Death Wobble"....scary huh?

My truck drove great, then one day I noticed the tie rod shaft was bent down. I took my floor jack out and "jacked" the shaft back into its correct configuration and didn't think another thing about it. The next weekend I drove the truck and Whoa!! "Death Wobble" Dang! So I started looking for worn parts...
I replaced my worn tie rod ends - no change
I replaced worn spring bushings - no change
I rebuilt drag link - no change

I was pulling me hair out. I finally posted a thread on here and someone suggested checking the toe-in and adding a bit to it. I got home that night and pulled out a tape measure and did a quick and dirty toe-in measurment to find it was out of whack. I adjust the toe-in to about 1/4" of total toe (I think) and took the truck for a drive. No "Death Wobble", none, not a bit!!

Since then I've been harping on the importance of setting the toe-in, in fact if you go back to the beginning of this thread (post #8) I mentioned it there.

Aren't these old trucks fun?
Bobby

 

Yep I remember that Bobby "Don't be shy......" You just forgot to mention "Don't be lazy!"

Believe it or not I am listening VERY CLOSELY to what you guys are saying!

Hey AX, can you post a picture of your set up?

 

So, your saying if you had to do the brakes over you'd do the disc swap?

bob

 

Julie, why would you have to change anything you have done to convert to disk brakes?
The conversion kits are straight bolt on (AFAIK, they are for the 53-56, so I assume there are bolt on kits for the F-1s as well), you don't have to remove the kingpins or spindles. Unbolt the backing plates, bolt on the caliper brackets. Replace the hubs with the ones for the disks. Bolt on the calipers and hook up the flex hoses. Add new MC for disk drums and residual pressure valves, bleed the system, go out and drive.

 

what he said !!!!!!!!!

 

In other words what youare telling me is I can convert to discs when I fix my brakes without having to undu any of this latest work????!!!!

I was under the impression I had to change out the spindles when I converted - tell me more! Name names!

Where do I get the disc conversion kits for the 51!

I'll do it! (next paycheck of course)

 

Jules,
The important thing is that the truck drives straight and true and you can run it down the freeway...woohooo!

The disc brakes kits are pretty easy. I have done a couple of them. I did my truck and I recently helped my buddy who has a Bonus Built front axle under his 1925 GMC.

There are several vendors that carry the parts. You can either buy a complete kit that includes calipers, rotors, etc or you can just buy the basic kit which gives you the caliper bracket, hardware, and the all important spindle adapters.
The spindle adapters are small sleeves that slide over the inner portion of the spindle for the inner bearing. Most kits give you the option of choosing either late model Ford half ton calipers to retain the 5 on 5 1/2" bolt pattern or mid sized GM rotors for the smaller GM car pattern. Most kits use GM brake calipers and outer wheel bearings.

I've heard that in some instances the grease zert (spelling?) for the kingpin needs to be changed to an angled zert or moved but that wasn't the case in the two installs I have done.

I bought my parts from Engineered Components Inc (ECI). The last time I checked I think Speedway Motors had the best prices. Classic Performance Parts (CPP) and Master Power Brakes also carry the parts.

Just a note for if and when you do the install. Its helpful to place the spindle adapters in the oven at about 400+ degrees for about 10 minutes or so before trying to install them as they are thin little parts and might not take to kindly to any agressive hammering on them. Its easy enough to make a driver for them out of some 1 1/2" pipe from the local hardware store. All in all, if you have all the parts in front of you its and easy weekend job.

Just one other note....sometimes, depending on what wheels you are running you might have to grind some meat off the back of the calipers as they might rub the wheel slightly.

Bobby

 

I was going to suggest MP Brakes as well. Speedway motors is also a real good operation.
Aside: Speedway hosted our Ax National Championships welcome banquet this year in Lincoln NE. The banquet was held in one of their fab shops and we got to wander their Museum of American Speed, WHAT A FANTASTIC PLACE! I also got to meet Speedy Bill and talk hot rods with him for a little while.

 

You're right Bobby, I drove it to day and took it up to 75 (maybe 80) and it is really driving well with the fixes I have on it with the exception of the right pull), and I can't wait until I get the springs done and put the neoprene tabs in and do a final alignment. WONDERFUL!

But here are my thoughts on the brakes and why I am considering changing over after being such a staunch defender of the stock brakes. And, let me be clear about a couple of things.

After spending $80 on new drums, and only getting 6500 miles out of these shoes, I'm wondering if the switch wouldn't be prudent from a MAINTENANCE standpoint. I am completely satisfied with the stock drum brakes I have as far as braking and function. And I still feel that the general statement that "if you don't convert to discs you will die" is not true. My 55 was the same - stock front brakes performed very well. I drove loaded (the truck was loaded) down "The Grapevine" a number of times with stock drum brakes on that 55 a number of times and never had a bit of trouble.

Bobby hit another chord too. I currently have to run aluminum wheel adapters (you can see them in the pictures above) to support the same size front wheels as I have on the 9 3/8 rear end. I had one of those come unbolted once and lost a wheel at slow speed (thank God!) and they have given me the creeps ever since! Putting discs on the truck will enable me to get rid of those as well. Plus, OldF1 would think I'm perfect if I had discs - tee hee.

So nothing wrong with the brakes perse, just a number of "dirt" factors that would be cleaned up with the conversion - especially since I've got to change them out anyway. And I'm in the "clean-up" mode on that front end. If I fix everything and have to do anything to it again within 40K miles, I'm gonna be truly annoyed!

Hey Bobby does one of those support the Ford 5 x 4 1/2 bolt pattern? And can either one of you post a link to ECI or MP for me?

Hey thanks guys - there goes the Christmas bonus! Easy come, Easy go (easy stop I guess too). I LOVE MY TRUCK, and I really appreciate the great advice and guidance!

 

Deluxe Disc Brake Kits: 1948-1956 Ford Half Ton

48-56 FORD F1 F100 TRUCK DISC CONVERSION KIT 5-LUG SALE:eBay Motors (item 160364982114 end time Oct-01-09 16:34:07 PDT)

Let us know how it goes. I've had several drum setup vehicles and never a real issue. I do live in a hilly area and brake fade "could" be an issue but I never pushed my vehicles to find out. But the thought was alway's there. I need to drop $150-to $200 on my front brakes anyway so it wasn't much of a leap to say I'm getting discs...


bob