Yep, …………. But just a heads-up for if and when you put it back together, the torque converter has two notches on the input hub that have to engage into the front pump of the trans before it bolted to the flex plate or the trans will not work, and it is possible to assemble everything incorrectly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtcalabrojr
If we lossen the bellhouosing bolts, then it turns?
Hum,…….. I wonder, .......if the torque converter was not into the front pump dogs (notches) would the converter bind against the front pump enough so that you couldn’t turn the engine? I don’t think so, it would try and turn the pump, right
Hum,…….. I wonder, .......if the torque converter was not into the front pump dogs (notches) would the converter bind against the front pump enough so that you couldn’t turn the engine? I don’t think so, it would try and turn the pump, right
Thats the one thing i have not done in this whole process? Another friend installed the tC. We talked tonight and he states that he turned in and it clicked in place.
I was thinking about removeing the driveshaft and moving the trans back to take a look and turn it myself. Keep the info going!!!!
When you install the tourqe convertor you need to spin it in slowly while you support it by grabbing the pilot in the center of the convertor and gently push back into the transmission. You can tell if it is in far enough by trying to get your fingers behind the convertor between the convertor and the top of the bell housing, also it should be able to rotate freely once you have the trans bolted to the engine. If your fingers fit easily then it isn't in far enough. It is also possible that the new engine has a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft where the torque convertor pilot goes. If you try and force it together it will break the case or tear up the front pump in the transmission. If when you start the engine it sounds like a really loud sewing machine then that means that you have just torn up the front pump in the trans. I made that mistake once over 30 years ago and still think about it every time I install a trans.
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We talked tonight and he states that it clicked in place.
Actually it should be a “clunk”!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 57fomoco
If your fingers fit easily then it isn't in far enough. It is also possible that the new engine has a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft where the torque convertor pilot goes.
Yep, if you can get your finger in between the TC and the case it’s not into the pump.
Lesson #1 You should have taken our advice early on and pulled the tranny with the engine. Then the remating of the engine and tranny outside the truck would have been a piece of cake. If I were you, I would still pull them both out, mate them up and check everything then put them back in as a unit. It still will take less time to do it right now than continue fighting with it and damage something. I can't remember what was done on the engine, but some engines have a different crankshaft for automatics and manual trannys. Ran into that putting a Hemi from a manual tranny car into a car with an automatic. Had to change the crankshaft.
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If you installed a new small block there should not be anything to keep it from bolting to the trans. If you installed a used or rebuilt engine , as it has been pointed out there could be a bearing or bushing in the end of the crankshaft you need to remove .The problem is, I don't believe you have the tork converter indext right . As you may recall some of us advised you not to pull the tork converter of with the engine and leave the trans. inside , for the very reason that has happend . My advise now is to remove the transmission , place it on the floor and use guide pins to install it so you can keep things allighned . I know others may say to skip that part , but they may have the expertise to keep things straight . I don't believe you do ,sorry don't take that the wrong way . If you havent replaced the front transmission seal like I advised you to ,then do it now as you have most likely have damaged it . If you don't replace it you will be pulling the transmission of again as they are very easy to damage .
If you installed a new small block there should not be anything to keep it from bolting to the trans. If you installed a used or rebuilt engine , as it has been pointed out there could be a bearing or bushing in the end of the crankshaft you need to remove .The problem is, I don't believe you have the tork converter indext right . As you may recall some of us advised you not to pull the tork converter of with the engine and leave the trans. inside , for the very reason that has happend . My advise now is to remove the transmission , place it on the floor and use guide pins to install it so you can keep things allighned . I know others may say to skip that part , but they may have the expertise to keep things straight . I don't believe you do ,sorry don't take that the wrong way . If you havent replaced the front transmission seal like I advised you to ,then do it now as you have most likely have damaged it . If you don't replace it you will be pulling the transmission of again as they are very easy to damage .
Well its all set now! The Tc was in correct, i double checked my self. The reason why, there was a bearing support in the end of the crank shaft. This was in a manual truck when pulled.
Not taken the wrong way but i guess i do have the expertise to keep it lined up, with out pulling the trany!The bearing was the problem you pointed out to me. Thanks for the pointer! We also changed the tranny seal as the rear main. Now off to finish the rest up.
Well its all set now! The Tc was in correct, i double checked my self. The reason why, there was a bearing support in the end of the crank shaft. This was in a manual truck when pulled.
Not taken the wrong way but i guess i do have the expertise to keep it lined up, with out pulling the trany!The bearing was the problem you pointed out to me. Thanks for the pointer! We also changed the tranny seal as the rear main. Now off to finish the rest up.
Thanks for everyones help!!
When you said you were installing a different engine, I thought you meant a new one that had never been used . An engine like that should have came with out a bearing , but a rebuilt or used one can have them . Good to here you got it and was not offended by the guide pins sugested as they are a pain . It's hard to tell just how much experience somebody has just from reading there question . Everybody here was throwing a lot at you but were only trying to help in ther own way , good luck with the truck and have a good day .
Well its all set now! The Tc was in correct, i double checked my self. The reason why, there was a bearing support in the end of the crank shaft. This was in a manual truck when pulled.
Not taken the wrong way but i guess i do have the expertise to keep it lined up, with out pulling the trany!The bearing was the problem you pointed out to me. Thanks for the pointer! We also changed the tranny seal as the rear main. Now off to finish the rest up.
Thanks for everyones help!!
came too late, thought about the pilot bushing.. had the same trouble on a engine swap in a jeep a while back..
glad u got it.. lots of little detail to work thru..
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JIMBOS/JUNK
When you said you were installing a different engine, I thought you meant a new one that had never been used . An engine like that should have came with out a bearing , but a rebuilt or used one can have them . Good to here you got it and was not offended by the guide pins sugested as they are a pain . It's hard to tell just how much experience somebody has just from reading there question . Everybody here was throwing a lot at you but were only trying to help in ther own way , good luck with the truck and have a good day . 
