Thanks for the info. He said the combustion chambers are 58cc. I don't know enough about heads to know what's better. I don't have any emission stuff now so I figured pre emission heads would work nicely. At the same time I don't want to create a situation that makes me run premium all the time.
I'm planning a build sometime next year and I'm collecting pieces as I find good deals. I was going to go with some aftermarket cast iron's like dart makes. I don't know enough about heads to know what to look for.
Since this is a build that you will be doing in the future, you could use pistons that would keep the CR down, but that's a fair chunk of change unless you find some cheap.
Everything needs to work together, so it really depends on what kind of motor you are wanting to build.
I guess one big deciding factor would be what the price of these heads is. At this point, I would say they need to be priced so you can get most if not all of your money back to buy them. I'm not saying that you wouldn't wind up using them, but without a clear plan at this point, most likely you will wind up with a plan that doesn't include them, especially if you find a good deal on some aftermarket heads.
What exactly are you looking at paying for these heads and why haven't you mentioned aluminum?
For $300 I got the heads and a 1 month old performer intake. Not too bad in my opinion. I go back on Friday to pick up the heads. That is one smooth port job. I can't wait to pull my stocks off and look at the difference. Speaking of differences, these should bolt right up with the performer intake, and my block right? I haven't yet paid him for the heads, I just went ahead and made a packaged deal.
Sounds like a good deal . The intake will work good. What cam are you going to use. I would use a good set of roller rockers on them , You can even step up to 1.72 rockers depending on what cam you run , You have the springs for the lift.... Lew
Haven't decided on the cam yet. Although there is a block around here thats already been honed and machined with a stage 2 RV cam installed for $250. If I went to roller rockers, would that greatley increase my budget? Currently the heads have no rocker arms at all on them.
Haven't decided on the cam yet. Although there is a block around here thats already been honed and machined with a stage 2 RV cam installed for $250. If I went to roller rockers, would that greatley increase my budget? Currently the heads have no rocker arms at all on them.
No, You didn't state the size of the studs (3/8" or 7/16") but I'm not sure what you would run other than roller rockers with studs, (especially 7/16"). They're already set up and you'd have to pay for non-roller ones. You can get some for just a touch over $100 or used for less.
So can I swap over my springs and rockers from my stock heads on to these and bolt them on and go?
I went back over this thread and realized I got Lew's and your heads mixed up. It depends on what has been done to the heads. If they have been milled for guide plates and tapped for studs, then that is what you need to run. It leads me to believe that they may have been because there are no rockers on them now. If the rockers were stock, I doubt anyone would pull them off.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but IIRC, the D0OE heads had press in studs. The rockers on an 80's model head would be pedestal or "bolt down" rockers. The bolt that bolts them down is 5/16" thread. So whether the heads have been re-worked or not, in stock form they are 2 different kinds of rockers, and they won't interchange. If they have studs sticking up out of the heads they may be stock. If they have threads tapped into them, then you need to find out whether they are 3/8" ot 7/16" and get the matching studs.
Can you post up some pics of them?
Yes, whatever the heads are setup for, that's what you will have to run. And each style of rocker system has it's own length of pushrods. You are in the middle of what makes hot rodding Fords frustrating, and why people like small block chevies. You can make it through, you will just need to be a little bit more careful, get all the knowledge you can about what you have and your options, and you might need to spend a little money to make it all work.
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For $300 I got the heads and a 1 month old performer intake. Not too bad in my opinion. I go back on Friday to pick up the heads. That is one smooth port job. I can't wait to pull my stocks off and look at the difference. Speaking of differences, these should bolt right up with the performer intake, and my block right? I haven't yet paid him for the heads, I just went ahead and made a packaged deal.
