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1967 - 1972 F-100 And Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck SPONSORED BY:






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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2009, 10:27 PM
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19704X4F250 19704X4F250 is offline
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Yep, that will do it. Rain messes things up real quick. Easy test for bad plug wires, get a squirt bottle of water, start your truck and mist your plug wires. It is best done at night for a fireworks show. If you don't have bad plug wires, I would do what MidMich67 suggested.
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Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.
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Old 10-10-2009, 10:30 PM
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Pull your cap off also and check for signs of moisture inside the cap. Had that happen to me once on a different truck.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2009, 10:30 PM
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so it may be just fine? we could take it out again when its dry and see if it has the same problem
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Old 10-10-2009, 10:33 PM
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Sure go ahead and drive it when its dry and see if it does it again. If it still does then do what 19704x4250 and I said. The water bottle is a good suggestion but I feel that if it was wires then it would be doing it constantly. But Ive been wrong before.
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Old 10-10-2009, 10:44 PM
FEman72 FEman72 is offline
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alright so i'll drive it when its dry, if im still having problems i'll replace the fuel filter. then after that i can replace the spark plugs and check out wires and ignition and all that if im still experiencing problems. after that... i guess the accel. pump and maybe a tuneup from a mechanic.
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1972 F250 camper special, 390 2bbl, 4 spd. granny gear, longbed.

1976 montgomery wards mower, 12 hp briggs and stratton, 7 speed transaxle runs about 30 mph.
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:37 PM
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Figure it out yet??
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:17 PM
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i seriously doubt you "burnt your valves" from not running an exhaust system.
like many are saying i would check ignition and any other electronics.

weather and the elements are the number one enemy of a vehicle and are the cause of most problems. you wouldnt leave a computer, hammer, lawnmower, motorcycle, book, pair of shoes, or anything else outside because why? it gets destroyed! yet people will park their vehicles outside and let them rot away. it destroys your tires, paintjob, weatherstripping, windows, brakes, suspension, driveshaft, battery, cables, belts, hoses, electronics, EVERYTHING. and if you live where they salt the roads and never wash underneath your vehicle then forget it youre screwed. it will rot ten times faster.
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Old 10-13-2009, 06:04 PM
FEman72 FEman72 is offline
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yea there is a weatherstrip my truck is missing. its the one that goes on the hood.
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1972 F250 camper special, 390 2bbl, 4 spd. granny gear, longbed.

1976 montgomery wards mower, 12 hp briggs and stratton, 7 speed transaxle runs about 30 mph.
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:22 PM
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UPDATE:

it hasn't rained all day so i went out and looked inside the distributor. I did not see any standing water. I made sure all the plugs were plugged in. I fired it up and it did the same thing it was doing the other day. Usually i pump the gas, turn the key, it fires right up. Now, it'll turn over then when i think its about to start i release the key, and it'll die right then. takes at least two times for it to start and keep running. Then it idled for about 3 minutes, and cut out.

I don't know really, but my guess is I need to replace the fuel pump or accelerater pump (are they the same thing?).

what do you think?

thanks
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1976 montgomery wards mower, 12 hp briggs and stratton, 7 speed transaxle runs about 30 mph.
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FEman72 View Post
UPDATE:
I don't know really, but my guess is I need to replace the fuel pump or accelerater pump (are they the same thing?).

what do you think?

thanks
Nope not the same. The accelerator pump is on the carb and the fuel pump is on the engine. When you are looking at the engine the fuel pump will be on the lower right by the water pump and the exhaust manifold. In another post it said how to test the fuel pump. To test the accelerator pump, pull off the air cleaner, look down the the throat of the carb and move the throttle open a couple of times. You should see fuel squirting into the engine. If not, the accelerator pump is faulty. Do this without the engine running of course.
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Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2009, 10:01 PM
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I still say its ignition.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2009, 08:39 AM
FEman72 FEman72 is offline
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ok thats what i'm thinking because i took the cap off the air cleaner and verified the accelerater pump is fine. I'll start by replacing spark plugs.
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1976 montgomery wards mower, 12 hp briggs and stratton, 7 speed transaxle runs about 30 mph.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2009, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19704X4F250 View Post
Go to this link....http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/89...ge-needed.html It has a picture of the front of a 2 bbl carb. Just to the right of the fuel filter is the accelerator pump. There is a lever on it and attached to it is a rod that goes to the throttle linkage. It is held in place by 4 screws. Remove the 4 screws and out will fall the diaphragm and a spring. Get the numbers off the carb and go to the parts store and get a replacement. I think it is less than $10.

Can't remember where the numbers are located on that carb.
All Ford carbs have a triangular shaped ID tag that bolts onto the airhorn.

By now...many of these ID tags are missing...doesn't really matter much, in this case, because...

ALL 1962/74 Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2V carbs use the same accelerator pump & check valve.

And...the same carburetor tune up kit which includes these two parts.

D4AZ9A586A .. 2V Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT499D).

D4AZ9A586A replaced C2AZ9A586B / CT499D replaced CT499C.
-------------------------------------------------------------
C4AZ9B559A .. Accelerator Pump (Motorcraft CM463)

C4AZ9576A .. Accelerator Pump Check Valve (Motorcraft CM825)

The check valve fits behind the acc pump, has a tit on it that fits into a hole in the carb body.

Most ppl ignore the check valve (or have no clue it's there) and just replace the acc pump. BIG mistake, cuz if one is bad, so's the other.

Common problem: Installing that check valve's tit into that tiny hole takes patience. If not done correctly, that will cause that tit to break off.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2009, 12:05 PM
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Pull the fuel filter can off the fuel pump and look to see if you have any water in the bottom. With rain, and a bad gas cap. you may have water in the fuel tank. Just one more thnig to look at.
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Old 10-15-2009, 02:35 PM
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so this is a bit late but driving w/o exhaust is not a bad idea, might not be a good one, but i wouldnt call it bad. i drive my truck for about 3 months with just headers and about 3 feet of streight pip, never had an issue with it. all a muffler really does is muffle the sound not much more.
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