You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Haven't forgotten about you guys or this place. Just been playing with some of my old toys that I pulled out of storage this summer.......
1946 Simplicity "D". Was a wreck when I bought it in 1997.
1950 Sear David Bradley. Belonged to my grandfather. Restored it in 1996.
1935 International Harvester "LA" engine. 2hp. Finally got it running right after restoring/moving it arund the garage the past 9 yrs.....
Took a vacation from vehicles this summer and played with these. Went to a few shows and had some fun hanging out. Just needto get some other projects that I've had in crates for the past 8 yrs back on track.
Good part is I use my F-150 to haul all of the around.....
__________________
-Kevin- 2010 Ford F-150 XL.....Farm Truck 2.0....
I guess I'll have to take some new pics of my old tractor. I don't have one on my puter. Torkum you would love the sound of it if you like the sound of a 2 cylinder motor. Its a old popping Johnnie.
__________________
Howard Never Politically Correct
Ranger Edge 3.0 Alpine9887 hu Yamaha 320 Phoenix Gold Ms275 JL Audio 500 Morel M12 tweets Exodus 6.5s & Skar VVX 10dvc sub 04 F250 Screw 6.0
NRA Benefactor Life member
I have a Maytag engine as well (Model 92 single cylinder). I need to get a new carb gasket and new plugs for mine instead of it being a workbench queen... Best place to find Maytag parts is Bob's Small engine repair up north. Also check smokstak.com and look in the small engine section. Lots of good info and some great tips. Since you live in Murfreesboro I can help ya out with it
Tim, the IH is actually a one cylinder engine. Hard to beleive that a single cylinder 2hp engine could weigh 260 lbs!!!!!!! Gotta love technology moving forward. I'd actually like to find the small power unit that used the same engine from the "H" John Deere tractor but all I can find is the "D" size power unit and it is HHHHEEEEEAAAAAAVVVVVYYYYY. Would need a dedicated trailer for it.
Gotta few other future projects that I need to photograph as well.....and get my butt in gear working on...
__________________
-Kevin- 2010 Ford F-150 XL.....Farm Truck 2.0....
Mine is in east TN, I could bring it here if I had help with it, ebay has a guy selling reconditioned carbs, will buy non working ones, so I'm thinking about selling him mine after buying one. The piston is stuck in it right now, I unbolted the head to find this out. It was from my great grandmothers house, my uncle used it to pump water from the creek, turning the engine into a pump, I think that's why it's frozen.
__________________
My wheelchair has yet to stop me from wrenching on my vans.
Mine is in east TN, I could bring it here if I had help with it, ebay has a guy selling reconditioned carbs, will buy non working ones, so I'm thinking about selling him mine after buying one. The piston is stuck in it right now, I unbolted the head to find this out. It was from my great grandmothers house, my uncle used it to pump water from the creek, turning the engine into a pump, I think that's why it's frozen.
A guy in the Maytag section of Smokstak named Mark Shulaw will rebuild your carb for you; all you have to do is ship it. The carbs are very simple and there isn't much to go wrong in them; only the check ball for the fuel feed tube and the air valve are the only two areas of any issue. The best way to unstick the piston from the "jug" is to let them soak in diesel fuel for a few weeks. Just be careful cause the piston is aluminum and the rod is silicon bronze or brass; both are soft.
When you get it up here gimme a shout and I'll help ya get it back in running shape..
__________________
-Kevin- 2010 Ford F-150 XL.....Farm Truck 2.0....
Pistons are cast iron, that's what mine looks like and a replacement I've seen.
The carb has corroded like aluminum will with age, I'm sure it's a mess, the guy sells it for $50, not sure what I can get from mine, it's worth not having to deal with it. I read an air filter is needed to cause enough restriction to cause it to suck fuel up into it, plug is easy, it's the same one used in the Model T, but plug wire may be a problem.
__________________
My wheelchair has yet to stop me from wrenching on my vans.
Pistons are cast iron, that's what mine looks like and a replacement I've seen.
The carb has corroded like aluminum will with age, I'm sure it's a mess, the guy sells it for $50, not sure what I can get from mine, it's worth not having to deal with it. I read an air filter is needed to cause enough restriction to cause it to suck fuel up into it, plug is easy, it's the same one used in the Model T, but plug wire may be a problem.
Went out and double checked mine and it was aluminum (magnet didn't stick). Thinking there was an engineering change or someone put in a replacement back down the road. How bad is the corrosion? Has it pitted the metal bad? I've run mine w/o an air filter succesfully before I shelved it but have seen them run both ways at shows with no ill effects. Spark Plug wire is easy to come by. Just get a foot of generic plug wire (sold in the tractor section @ TSC or by leepedresen.com for the designer wire) and make to length. I put a fork connector on the plug end that way I can just pull it off to change plugs along with allowing the ground strap to touch the plug to stop it running.
__________________
-Kevin- 2010 Ford F-150 XL.....Farm Truck 2.0....
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.