Super Duty & Heavy Duty1999 to current Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 Super Duty with diesel V8 and gas V8 and V10 engines
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open. The passenger side stopped opening right after I purchased it a few months back (168K miles). I removed the door panels and reached my hand in feeling around. I know the latch releases are activated by cables but cannot figure out how they work. While feeling and pulling on the cables one became dislodged from its holder. The driver’s side stopped opening yesterday . Do the cables stretch, break, or what? Or are the holders the issue? Is there an illustration that shows how the cables are run and connected? Has anyone else had this issue?fficeffice" />>> >>
i am having a similar problem with my '02. Try pushing then pulling. Mine pops open every time.
'02 F350 Lariat 142"WB 7.3 DP-Tunes, 4" strait piped Monster Exhaust, 6637, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, JW Trans, Casserly Stage 1's, RiffRaff 2nd Gen Wheel plus a lot of new OEM stuff
Chances are it is just seized at the latch/striker. They're located at the top and bottom at the door. Assuming there is nothing broken, try spraying a healthy dose of PB Blaster (penetrating fluid) at the latches and let it sit overnight.
Mine did this too. Turns out the cables that release the latch broke near the handle. There are two of them one each for upper and lower latch. The housing is plastic and they broke at the end of the housing where they snap into the release mechanism. I haven't replaced them yet but need to as the other door just broke and it's a pain to load the kids up in there without the doors opend.
Guys, there are a few videos about how to fix this problem on YouTube and tons of information on this forum and other forums. When I first bought my 2000 F250 a few months ago neither of my extended cab rear doors would open. I took the panels off and messed with the cables until they popped open.
Then, going off the videos I simply made a couple of small holes in the interior metal of the panels and zip tied the cables in a way that they would actuate the door locks/latches. I did not want to spend the money on new cables (around $100 I think) so I messed with it for about an hour on the first one and 10 minutes on the second one. The only difficulty I had was aligning the cable with the zip tie in a way that the handles still triggered the cable to slide correctly in the housing.
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