open. The passenger side stopped opening right after I purchased it a few months back (168K miles). I removed the door panels and reached my hand in feeling around. I know the latch releases are activated by cables but cannot figure out how they work. While feeling and pulling on the cables one became dislodged from its holder. The driverís side stopped opening yesterday . Do the cables stretch, break, or what? Or are the holders the issue? Is there an illustration that shows how the cables are run and connected? Has anyone else had this issue?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Chances are it is just seized at the latch/striker. They're located at the top and bottom at the door. Assuming there is nothing broken, try spraying a healthy dose of PB Blaster (penetrating fluid) at the latches and let it sit overnight.
Mine did this too. Turns out the cables that release the latch broke near the handle. There are two of them one each for upper and lower latch. The housing is plastic and they broke at the end of the housing where they snap into the release mechanism. I haven't replaced them yet but need to as the other door just broke and it's a pain to load the kids up in there without the doors opend.
Guys, there are a few videos about how to fix this problem on YouTube and tons of information on this forum and other forums. When I first bought my 2000 F250 a few months ago neither of my extended cab rear doors would open. I took the panels off and messed with the cables until they popped open.
Then, going off the videos I simply made a couple of small holes in the interior metal of the panels and zip tied the cables in a way that they would actuate the door locks/latches. I did not want to spend the money on new cables (around $100 I think) so I messed with it for about an hour on the first one and 10 minutes on the second one. The only difficulty I had was aligning the cable with the zip tie in a way that the handles still triggered the cable to slide correctly in the housing.
My driver side rear half door won't open at all. I've had the panel pulled off for about a year- I can't count how many times I've drenched it with PB blaster. Cable is still good. I've tried everything from every time this topic comes up and have yet to get that door open.
Eventually, I plan to replace all four doors, so I'm guessing a Sawzall is what will eventually open it...
Seems affordable & durable so we'll see. My driver-side rear-suicide door won't open so it is the test subject. I have removed the interior panel & have it apart at moment. I will admit that yanking on the broken cable & situating the open handle simultaneously took a while to get the door open. Finally got it, now to parts store for his $3 pipe pieces. I will update if this works as well as it did in his video. His comments section is full of folks who claim his idea was a success. thanks!
I used the youtube video as well but instead of using the pipe I used Air compressor quick connects, slotted them with a dremel cut off wheel so the cable could go through them and crimped them back on the cable. They fit perfectly in the slots the original broken ends come out of and on the cable. I will try to attach a couple of pics to demonstrate
latch side after removing broken part
Fits perfectly in slot
Slot with dremel, cut off to shorten the end a little and put cable through slot and it will crimp on sheath.
bend out end a little so it will fit in and lock in place
Once it is in tap the fork back in place, done with this end
Other end, same procedure
This one also fits in fork at handle. This was a quick procedure, just make sure you keep it the same length.. you can wrap black tape around the sheath to use more of the length of the quick connect to crimp it. this lets the threaded end which has a larger inner diameter crimp on the tape.
Hope this helps someone out there. I have done both doors upper latch, One has been working without trouble for more than a year...