OK, here's my situation, my 2001 started to have a rough idle at start up, almost to the point of dying out. I had replace the IAC about 3 years ago, and problem solved. So when it started doing it again I first tried to clean it 3 different times, didn't help. So I decided to go ahead and replace it again thinking "well at least that will take care of it". Well that didn't work. It will idle like it's suppose to for about the first 10 seconds and then it drops down, and sometimes at a light it will just about die out if I don't put it in neutral. Once it's warmed up, everything is fine, and it runs perfect. I've looked at some of the old post, but didn't really fine my exact problem. Any ideas, or similarities? My first thought is to take my new IAC valve back to Autozone and try another one, other than that I'm stumped. Like I said once it's warmed up it runs like a champ! Thanks for any ideas!
I think that you have a MAF, try cleaning it. Clean your throttle body with some safe cleaner for it. Some TBs are coated and some cleaners with destroy it!
Hey Bill,
Thanks for the information. I went and got some MAF cleaner and sprayed it down well. Tried it after the car had cooled down, and still have the same problem. I did notice that after it warmed up that my Escape is running even better after cleaning the MAF, so it was well worth the $8 bucks for the cleaner. I don't have any TB cleaner, but I'll work on cleaning it today or tomorrow when I have time. I think I'm also going to go up to Autozone and just take off the IAC and exchange it. I don't really think that is the problem because it's exhibiting the exact same symptoms with my old IAC, but it could just be a bad part. I was also thinking I should change out my fuel filter, I don't think it's ever been changed, since I bought the car used.
tcesni, I certainly would appreciate any information you found out on your 02, thanks!
Hey Bill,
Thanks for the information. I went and got some MAF cleaner and sprayed it down well. Tried it after the car had cooled down, and still have the same problem. I did notice that after it warmed up that my Escape is running even better after cleaning the MAF, so it was well worth the $8 bucks for the cleaner. I don't have any TB cleaner, but I'll work on cleaning it today or tomorrow when I have time. I think I'm also going to go up to Autozone and just take off the IAC and exchange it. I don't really think that is the problem because it's exhibiting the exact same symptoms with my old IAC, but it could just be a bad part. I was also thinking I should change out my fuel filter, I don't think it's ever been changed, since I bought the car used.
tcesni, I certainly would appreciate any information you found out on your 02, thanks!
Scott
Could be a temperature sensor too. As far as O2 sensors go, at start up, O2 input is ignored. That's because their input is inaccurate till they warm up which takes a minute or two. That time before O2 input is accepted is called "Open Loop" and when the O2s warm up it goes into "Closed Loop". Most scanners will read "Loop Status".
You may also want to look into the plug coils. I had a similar problem recently with my 2001 Mazda Tribute. While I was changing the plugs I noticed the top of one of the coils was cracked. I did not immediately replace it to see if my tune-up would fix the issue. The problem was still there, replaced the coil and it has been fine ever since.
I'm thinking it's not the IAC, so I didn't go by AutoZone and exchange it, but I did get a fuel filter and I'm going to replace it this morning. I really don't think it's the problem, but I looked under the car and it is the original fuel filter, 127,000....... Oops! So it needs to replace anyway. When I start it, it goes up to about 1500 RPMs, settles down to about 1000 or little less,then idles sort of erratically, when I back out of the garage, kind of lurching. So I put it in drive drove about 30 feet, seems like mostly normal idle and stop in drive, idles OK for about 20 seconds and then starts falling likes it going to die. Again once it's warmed up, runs great, even better with the MAF cleaned. After reading some of the other replies, I better add this information. About a month ago I went to a self service car wash to clean the engine, I covered the computer and that area with foil, The car wash wand has that high, low pressure so I mainly just used the low pressure, but I accidentally hit the high pressure and hit the area right below the plastic engine cover were the 4,5 coils and are. Sure enough when I drove off I had a cylinder miss firing. Took a while to get a trouble code, but finally got P0305. Replaced the #5 coil, and everything was fine. So the problem I may have, may have been man made (by me). Tomorrow, I'm going to take the plastic engine cover off and take a good look at everything, see if there is anything out of place, Vacuum leaks, cracked coils, clean the throttle body, and the other things that were mentioned here . I know I'll figure this out, so I'm not going to get frustrated by it, and all the help is very greatly appreciated.
Well, replaced the fuel filter, went ahead and pulled off the plastic engine cover, didn't see anything a miss as far as vacuum lines, front bank of coils. I'll see when I get off of work this evening if the fuel filter was causing the start up problems. My guess is it's not, but it should have been replace a long time ago anyway. Thanks Again!
My problem was a bad vacuum hose - easy and cheap fix. The car runs better than it has in months so the hose probably had a small leak before totally letting go.
I've looked and listened, and don't see anything a miss with vacuum lines. Fuel filter replacement, didn't help, but it needed to be done anyway. Went ahead and exchanged the IAC valve at AutoZone, it's a warm humid day in Texas, so after it cools down, see if there is any change in the start up. I'm planning on flushing my coolant system and replacing the thermostat, Radiator hoses and heater hoses (geez Ford sure knows how to use a lot of hoses) Anyway, I think I will replace the ECT sensor, as Bill suggested, it's pretty inexpensive. Other than looking at the rear bank of coils (that's a pain) I'm pretty much stumped as to what it could be. Once it's warmed up it runs great. Thanks for everyone's input.
I've looked and listened, and don't see anything a miss with vacuum lines. Fuel filter replacement, didn't help, but it needed to be done anyway. Went ahead and exchanged the IAC valve at AutoZone, it's a warm humid day in Texas, so after it cools down, see if there is any change in the start up. I'm planning on flushing my coolant system and replacing the thermostat, Radiator hoses and heater hoses (geez Ford sure knows how to use a lot of hoses) Anyway, I think I will replace the ECT sensor, as Bill suggested, it's pretty inexpensive. Other than looking at the rear bank of coils (that's a pain) I'm pretty much stumped as to what it could be. Once it's warmed up it runs great. Thanks for everyone's input.
Scott
The time to change the ECT is when you do the coolant flush. Newer Escapes don't have a ECT but use cylinder head temperature sensor instead. You should have a intake air temperature sensor also which should be much easier to replace and cheap too. Another easy to change sensor is your TPS.
Hey Bill,
Thanks for the info. I'm going to replace the ECT when I flush the system as you suggested, since it's it's on the thermostat housing, logical to replace it then for sure. Still had the problem this morning during the start up, but not as long, (exchanged the IAC). It's more a nuisance than a problem, but it is annoying. I haven't found anything on a air temperature sensor, but it may be called something else, and I'm out of town right now. I going to have the loop status checked when I get back in town. I like solving mysteries, but not when it's my car!
Thanks!
Well, I think I may have finally gotten to the bottom of this problem. Got back in town, at the airport started it up, expecting the usual rough idle for the first minute or two. It just seemed rougher than it's been, revved it up to about 1500 rpms, was really rough, missing. It didn't get any better when I was driving, finally the check engine light started flashing, so I just went up to AutoZone to get the trouble code. I was hoping (well that it would fix itself) it was the #4 coil from where I had zapped it at the car wash, and not the #1,2,3 coils which are a pain to do, or something worse. Sure enough code PO304. (# 4 cylinder misfiring). So bought a coil came home and did right then, about 2 minutes to replace once the plastic engine shield is off. Life back to normal, so I should know when I start it tomorrow morning (after it's cooled off) if this was the problem, a slow dying coil!
Well I was hoping I could finally kill this thread this morning, after replacing the #4 cylinder coil yesterday. So started it this morning, same old song and dance. Starts up fine, but then idle drops and starts to surge. In drive (with brake on) it will hold a normal idle for about 10-20 seconds and then drop of likes it's going to die. Once the normal operating temperature comes up everything is fine again. So I think what Bill stated in an earlier quote may be the problem.
"Could be a temperature sensor too. As far as O2 sensors go, at start up, O2 input is ignored. That's because their input is inaccurate till they warm up which takes a minute or two. That time before O2 input is accepted is called "Open Loop" and when the O2s warm up it goes into "Closed Loop". Most scanners will read "Loop Status".
I plan on flushing out the radiator this Sunday and at least replacing both radiator hoses, so I'm going to have the loop status checked, and probably just go ahead and replace the ECT sensor, when I flush the system and put in a new thermostat, since it's on the thermostat housing.
Well I was hoping I could finally kill this thread this morning, after replacing the #4 cylinder coil yesterday. So started it this morning, same old song and dance. Starts up fine, but then idle drops and starts to surge. In drive (with brake on) it will hold a normal idle for about 10-20 seconds and then drop of likes it's going to die. Once the normal operating temperature comes up everything is fine again. So I think what Bill stated in an earlier quote may be the problem.
"Could be a temperature sensor too. As far as O2 sensors go, at start up, O2 input is ignored. That's because their input is inaccurate till they warm up which takes a minute or two. That time before O2 input is accepted is called "Open Loop" and when the O2s warm up it goes into "Closed Loop". Most scanners will read "Loop Status".
I plan on flushing out the radiator this Sunday and at least replacing both radiator hoses, so I'm going to have the loop status checked, and probably just go ahead and replace the ECT sensor, when I flush the system and put in a new thermostat, since it's on the thermostat housing.
Scott
One thing that I heard in the past that has happened, is that the port between the IAC and throttle plate area gets plugged. The IAC ports intake air from in front ot the throttle plate to behind it.
If you had a scanner that reads PIDs, you can read the temperature of your sensors before you start it! Should have thought of that before.
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