I have a 223 straight 6. Just recently it has been having issues with starting. Started sounds great, like it always has. There's gas going to the carbutor. I figuared it must be electrical. I checked for spark. No spark at the coil or at any of the plug wires.

I replaced the coil, cap, rotor, condenser, and points. Still no spark.

Power wire going to the coil was power and I have a good ground from the coil to the bottom of the distributor.

I have power coming from the coil wire when the igniton is in the ON position but when the ignition is cranked I don't get an ark or spark when holding next to a ground.

What am I missing?

 

What am I missing? Probably nothing.

I have found that about 30-40% of the new coils you will buy are bad right out of the box. I highly recommend the "Flamethrower" coils that are solid filled as opposed to oil filled coils.

Also, check your wires on your distributor - inside and out.

Good luck

 

Is there a way to check if the coil is bad or not?

 

According to your thread. Sounds like you have power in the "on" part of the ignition switch but not in the "crank" position of the ignition switch. Also, looking at your gallery pictures I would move the coil. Where you have it will eventually cook the coil. (Keep it as cool as possible) If it's oil filled and you mount it flat the wiring screws should be mounted at the bottom or lowest point to insure oil covers internal components. Julie has a good idea on type of coil. chuck

 

Whats weird is there is still power in the "crank" position but no jump or spike to cause the arch.

And as far as I know the mounting location is orignal.

 

Tried a different coil. Still no luck. I'm starting to get frustrated. Might just bite the bullet and take it to a shop.

 

Did you check the wires inside of distributor? The ones under the breaker plate. Seems like they can cause trouble. Look in your shop Manuel for locations. I think that the low tension that comes in through the side or the bottom can sometimes ground out on the body of the distributor.

 

If the wiring is good you should see a spark from the coil when you open the points contacts. If you don't see or hear a spark, look for a shorted condenser (capacitor), an intermittent distributor lead or a shorted distributor lead.
You can check for proper coil operation by disconnecting the distributor lead and with power "on", quickly brushing a wire from the electrical "ground" to the coil post that the distributor lead normally connects to.
Be careful, you can get a shock.

 

Remove power wire to the coil. As someone tries to start the truck run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil input.
Don't work,next. Remove output coil wire and wire to the points. Use ohm meter and check for continuity. Also check wire to ground, no continuity. You said you replaced condenser, it connects to the points at the same point as the coil exit/primary wire. I assume the cap and rotor are correct for you truck. chuck

 

There's also the ballast resistor, and the wire to the starter solenoid that bypasses it during starting. Leaving out that wire can make for unnecessarily hard starting.

Put a voltmeter across the points to make sure they're closing solidly. You should see 0 volts across the points with them closed, 12V with them open.

 

True on a 12 volt conversion....If the 53/223 is still 6 volt there won't be either.

 

It has been converted to a 12V. I also tried by passing the resister with the power wire going straight to the coil, still no luck. I'll try the jumper method, as mentioned above, to night. Going barttery straight to the coil and see what happens.

 

I got the same problem with my 223 in my '60. Power to the coil, good ground thru the distrib and no spark from the coil. It's driving me nuts.

 

12VDC negative ground. I know you must have a good ground for the starter but do you have a good grounds between the battery negative and the frame and the block and the cab and the bed. Sometimes you can be surprised where the wiring installer places grounds and how a poor ground will affect circuits. Also since it was updated from 6VDC to 12VDC this can happen. You can use battery jumper cables with alligator clips for quickie test cables. chuck

 

Two things:
First, points are made by welding a tungsten pad onto steel breaker arms and baseplates. The weld joints can become corroded and there will be no power conducted, even tho they look like they are working. If you find 12v (or 6v) on the terminal connected to the points with the points apparently closed, you don't have a good ground. Either the points aren't conducting, or they aren't really closing.

Second, if you really have power to the coil, and ground the other side intermittently with a jumper, with the wire to the points disconnected, you should get a spark out of the hi-tension wire. If you don't, the coil is bad. That's all there is to it.