5.8 won't run right after new cap and rotor
#1
5.8 won't run right after new cap and rotor
Well i put a new cap and rotor on my 97 f350 sunday and took it around the block and everything seemed fine,but monday it rained all day and when i took it out i noticed that it was missing.It would take off fine and accelerate fine but cruising 55mph or above it began to miss badly,so i figured it just got wet but when I got home i pulled the cap and everything was dry,so I began to trouble shoot.I found that number 6 the plug was loose to i pulled that and the plug was white so i put it back it and put on my old cap and went around the block and same result so I put the new cap back on checked my wires etc and went around the block and noticed the engine was spark knocking badly and had no power or torque so i got home pulled the cap and it was covered in black soot or carbon or whatever.So I guess my question is did I get some bad gas and it just happens to be a coincidence that I happened to change my cap when this happened or could my distributor still be wet?I'm hoping it's just bad gas but i'm gonna pull the plugs tomorrow when she cools off.Thanks for any input as this is getting me frustrated
#2
I doubt bad gas is the cause of the problem.
The fact that you had black carbon build up under the cap so quickly is the result of a short- and it's either in the new cap or rotor. Take them both back to the parts store and exchange them- then install them and see what happens. It's rare but not unheard of for a new cap or rotor to be defective.
Make sure that the cap is sitting squarely on the mounting base. Sometimes they can be tricky and not be squarely mounted but look and feel like they are.
The fact that you had black carbon build up under the cap so quickly is the result of a short- and it's either in the new cap or rotor. Take them both back to the parts store and exchange them- then install them and see what happens. It's rare but not unheard of for a new cap or rotor to be defective.
Make sure that the cap is sitting squarely on the mounting base. Sometimes they can be tricky and not be squarely mounted but look and feel like they are.
#3
Check wiring around the cap and plugs as well - I have FHS (fat hand syndrome) and have been known to dislodge wires, vacuum hoses, and all kinds of other stuff when working on unrelated systems
Probably what DB says, you're the lucky guy who got the cap and rotor that slipped through Q/A at the factory.....
Probably what DB says, you're the lucky guy who got the cap and rotor that slipped through Q/A at the factory.....
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#8
85 He's from last year, 75 was big fish this year. Rod and reel, all catch and release - I'm just in it to see how big of one I can catch. I pretty much live on the river during the summer when I'm not working.
97FRD, check your timing. Any chance you knocked the dizzy around when you were working on it?
I'm not a big believer in coincidences - if the only thing that changed between it running well and now not running well was the tune up, then I'd bet it's either bad parts or something got bumped/broke/loosened during the tune up. Just a thought.
97FRD, check your timing. Any chance you knocked the dizzy around when you were working on it?
I'm not a big believer in coincidences - if the only thing that changed between it running well and now not running well was the tune up, then I'd bet it's either bad parts or something got bumped/broke/loosened during the tune up. Just a thought.
#11
I'd replace the cap and rotor first as others have said but I bet it's the wires. Go with the more expensive Ford type. I had two brand new NAPA Beldon wires sets not be able to handle the juice, missed in the rain, rough idle, glowed blue in the dark etc.- drove me nuts. Many in this forum said repeatedly to change the wires to Ford but I resisted (no pun intended). As soon as the wires were changed- presto. Ford wire composition is noticibly diffferent - and they just work - bottom line. It's been over a year with no ignition problem irregardless of the weather.
#12
#13
yeah mine are the 9mm wires too.I have had them roughly 2 to 3 years,visibly i can't see anything wrong and i popped the hood at night just to see if i could see anything arcing and nothing.I haven't touched the damn thing since thursday so i might mess with it tomorrow.Thanks everybody for your input though
#14
Did you route your wires correctly to prevent cross sparking in the harness? 351s and 302s are very picky on how you route the wires on both cylinder banks. In particular 7 and 8 can not be near one another, 5 and 6 should not be as well.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...e-routing.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...e-routing.html