so whatca think . . .vids of the rebuild . . .
#1
so whatca think . . .vids of the rebuild . . .
some vids of my truck and the 400 after the rebuild:
millk river mud bog first run - Car Videos on StreetFire
YouTube - Cardston mud bog run 1
YouTube - My last run in cardston
YouTube - missed shift run in pollockville
YouTube - Cardston mud bog run 2
YouTube - Pollockville mud bog in truck vid
millk river mud bog first run - Car Videos on StreetFire
YouTube - Cardston mud bog run 1
YouTube - My last run in cardston
YouTube - missed shift run in pollockville
YouTube - Cardston mud bog run 2
YouTube - Pollockville mud bog in truck vid
#4
Yeah the rebuild went a little wilder than orginally thought:
everything is studded, rebalanced the bottom end, flat top pistons and the block and heads were shaved to get compression up to a min. of 12:1 (static), solid roller .662/.685 lift cam, heads are ported as far as the 4v quench heads can be taken before port stuffers and such are needed, ported rosch b351 intake with price spacers and a demon 750 carb (which is way to small, upping to a predator this winter), full msd ignition, all in all it goes like a bat out of hell.
everything is studded, rebalanced the bottom end, flat top pistons and the block and heads were shaved to get compression up to a min. of 12:1 (static), solid roller .662/.685 lift cam, heads are ported as far as the 4v quench heads can be taken before port stuffers and such are needed, ported rosch b351 intake with price spacers and a demon 750 carb (which is way to small, upping to a predator this winter), full msd ignition, all in all it goes like a bat out of hell.
#7
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#8
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{this may be an issue that could be resolved with a roller cam, but the point is, this is a radical build, and i might advise going a little milder for engine longevity. if you want those numbers, you should consider power adders or a bigger block.}-my $.02
#9
Yes, that was what I was referring too, but I never saw the particulars. Initially I am just going to replace the timing chain[Ca smog retarded 6 degrees] and if needed the oil pump. If the result gives me good power and reasonable gas milage [11 to 14] after going to 35" tires and headers + a big exhaust, then I want to get serious and build or buy a short block and build up the top end for longevity and power/milage. That is why I was interested in the engine from this thread- it seems to have the power, but is it strictly for mud bogging with a rebuild in the near future?
#10
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Yes, that was what I was referring too, but I never saw the particulars. Initially I am just going to replace the timing chain[Ca smog retarded 6 degrees] and if needed the oil pump. If the result gives me good power and reasonable gas milage [11 to 14] after going to 35" tires and headers + a big exhaust, then I want to get serious and build or buy a short block and build up the top end for longevity and power/milage. That is why I was interested in the engine from this thread- it seems to have the power, but is it strictly for mud bogging with a rebuild in the near future?
#11
once you fix that timing issue (ford was retarded on that one....) it should put you in a very good power range. like the low 300s. you might be happy with the numbers you get off of that alone. put some exhaust on it like youre saying, and youll have a pretty formidable, almost stock motor. i know for a fact that my 460 is makin less than 300 ponies, and its still capable of being a handfull.
#12
After some back and forth with the builder we're estimating its tickling ~600hp, not near that in tq though, which is probably 500 ish, we tried to get it on the dyno before we put it in the truck but the dyno guy had family issues and we didn't havve the time to wait to get it done, but we're planning on doing it this winter though.
The one saving grace for this motor is that its for mud boggin and racing, its not daily driven nor does it see drag strip use, that right there will help ensure it'll live a couple season. The other things that will help it live is the fact everything is studded, and all the oiling precautions have been taken to help make it live (i've ran into this problem before on my first build, pan was to small and i sucked it dry), as in the pits reving at redline and up to temperature the oild pressure is between 60 and 70psi, and the motor doesn't run hotter than 170 deg's, no matter the situation.
The one saving grace for this motor is that its for mud boggin and racing, its not daily driven nor does it see drag strip use, that right there will help ensure it'll live a couple season. The other things that will help it live is the fact everything is studded, and all the oiling precautions have been taken to help make it live (i've ran into this problem before on my first build, pan was to small and i sucked it dry), as in the pits reving at redline and up to temperature the oild pressure is between 60 and 70psi, and the motor doesn't run hotter than 170 deg's, no matter the situation.
#13
Installing A 400M Short-Block Into A 351 Cleveland Stroker Engine - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine
a huge 460 based engine will make more power
but a lowly 400 can be made to scream
a huge 460 based engine will make more power
but a lowly 400 can be made to scream
#14
After some back and forth with the builder we're estimating its tickling ~600hp, not near that in tq though, which is probably 500 ish, we tried to get it on the dyno before we put it in the truck but the dyno guy had family issues and we didn't havve the time to wait to get it done, but we're planning on doing it this winter though.
The one saving grace for this motor is that its for mud boggin and racing, its not daily driven nor does it see drag strip use, that right there will help ensure it'll live a couple season. The other things that will help it live is the fact everything is studded, and all the oiling precautions have been taken to help make it live (i've ran into this problem before on my first build, pan was to small and i sucked it dry), as in the pits reving at redline and up to temperature the oild pressure is between 60 and 70psi, and the motor doesn't run hotter than 170 deg's, no matter the situation.
The one saving grace for this motor is that its for mud boggin and racing, its not daily driven nor does it see drag strip use, that right there will help ensure it'll live a couple season. The other things that will help it live is the fact everything is studded, and all the oiling precautions have been taken to help make it live (i've ran into this problem before on my first build, pan was to small and i sucked it dry), as in the pits reving at redline and up to temperature the oild pressure is between 60 and 70psi, and the motor doesn't run hotter than 170 deg's, no matter the situation.
#15
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Installing A 400M Short-Block Into A 351 Cleveland Stroker Engine - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine
a huge 460 based engine will make more power
but a lowly 400 can be made to scream
a huge 460 based engine will make more power
but a lowly 400 can be made to scream
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