Have a rebuilt 400 from a 79 f250 with a RV cam, and stock carb and stock intake, headers with dual exhaust.
Which mod should I do next? Edelbrock 1407 or 1405/1406? I want decent street performance, but main focus on tow/haul.
Which intake should I install at the same time?
Next step is ignition, which aftermarket system for a daily driver?
sorry for the simple Q's.
thanks
I use the Edelbrock Performer 400 intake and a 1406 carb. The carb worked great right of the box. I kept the original Duraspark system, still works great after 30 yrs.
__________________ Sam
79 F100 Ranger
351M/408 by Performance Specialties Inc(PSI). B'ham, Al.
C6 by Performance Torque Converters(PTC)-Muscle Shoals
2wd "Trailer Special" ROLL TIDE ROLL http://www.supermotors.net/registry/20636
I to like the 670 street avenger, and have had a 1406. A 600 would work good for the 400. The duraspark cannot be beat for your motor, kinda wasting money. IF anything an msd box may help you in winter. The distibutor is the same design as fords, with better bearing support.
__________________
Matt
78 F100 390 2wd c6
79 F150 400 np435 4x4
79 f150 390 rip!
Avatar is Barry Rabotnick's emc motor!
I think I may try the Holley 670. Is it p/n: 81670, or should I get another p/n?
I got the 0-90670 Truck Avenger a few years ago, got it from Holley's eBay store/auction
house, it's where they resell (now refurbished) carbs that have been returned after initial
purchase.
Will I need an adaptor plate if I go with the Holley avenger mounted to an aftermarket intake manifold?
Based on what you've told us, I think the best answer is gonna be, "it depends."
I will explain my situation and my build (last summer), feel free to ask
questions.
Prior to rebuilding the 400 in my 1981 F350, I had a problem with the
carburetor heating up to the point that you could hear the gas in the bowl
boiling, and little, white puffs of "smoke" would emanate from the bowl's vent
tube, it kinda looked like a miniature smokestack.
I told an old-timer around here about my rebuild plans and the then-current
problems, he suggested I get a wooden spacer plate (Edelbrock EDL-8725, just
over $20 from Summit) when I rebuild it.
I needed to pass the Colorado Emissions tests, so I got the Performer 400 with
the EGR accommodations (I totally forget the part number for the EGR-
compatible variant). Cost something like $75 used on eBay .
Already told you I got the Truck Avenger 0-90670 from Holley's eBay site.
At assembly time, I found that I couldn't get any of the Ford EGR plates
(gotten from junkyards) to fit entirely correctly with the Performer. I learned
that Edelbrock sells an EGR adapter plate for this manifold and got one from
a local speed shop (around $75 IIRC).
But, I never installed it; in fact, I never even opened the package, it's in my
garage. Because the truck is now registered as an antique, I don't think I'll
have to deal with any more emissions tests until I sell it. (There's a chance I
might have to get it tested every 5 years when I get the plates renewed, I really
don't remember.)
From the same speed shop, I got a fairly thick (perhaps 1/8") block-off plate
& gasket, it goes directly onto the manifold and blocks off the exhaust gases.
Following that is the wooden riser (1/2" thick) followed by the 0-90670.
Also, IIRC, the intake manifold has a large vacuum connection on the back, it
is to where I hook up the power brake booster.
The carb also has such a connector in the front, it's hooked to the PCV valve in
the LH valve cover. I lucked out in that, prior to all this assembly, I had
collected various pre-bent tubes & fittings from various engines in the junk
yards and had one that worked pretty dang well. IIRC, the stock PCV tubing
connects to the back of the stock carb
I put a pipe plug in the hole in the top of the manifold where the AIR pump's
check valve is normally attached.
I'm not using a turkey pan; rather, the Mr. Gasket gaskets.
I'm also using one of those big, blue, air cleaner assemblies from a late-70's
sedan but that's just for sentimental reasons (it reminds me of the 1970
Mustang I had as a kid) and shouldn't affect anything.
So, I had originally planned on installing the EGR, ultimately got all the parts
to do it, but never did it.
If you don't have the EGR stuff to deal with, I have to wonder what kind of
adapter plate you're asking about - to adapt what?
I'll look in the garage and get the Edelbrock part number of the EGR plate if
you're interested, just ask.
You might have issues with the throttle cable; at a minimum, you'll need the
little ball that screws onto the linkage, the factory throttle cable attaches to it.
Can you remove that ball from the stock carb? If not, you'll need to get one;
Holley has it on their Web site somewhere, any decent auto parts store
should be able to get it, a speed shop would probably have it in stock.
You will probably also need to deal with ensuring the cable & linkage operates
freely and can fully open & close the carb, I somewhat modified the bracket
that holds the spring & cable assembly to the manifold.
If you have an automatic transmission, you will need some additional linkage
assemblies from Holley.
- I used an air cleaner spacer for everything in my installation to fit & work.
- As I already said, the initial plans were to have the EGR installed, and the
distributor was recurved based on that premise. But I never installed it so I'm
gonna get with my engine builder/machinist and we'll determine what to adjust to
eliminate engine pinging. The guy I chose as my machinist is a really good Ford-
oriented specialist and knows what he's doing, having people like that to help is a
GREAT thing!
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