Is it possible to used a take off turbo from another vehicle to adapt to the IDI? I see a lot of T3/T4 garretts for realtively cheap and the ATS filter housing isn't necessary when you can easily make your own cone filter intake. What would be the most difficult part to make up if one were to go about this?

 

What do you consider to be cheap $$ ??

 

prolly hardest part would be the hat that goes to the intake aand all the pipeing. by the time ya got done you could prolly buy a used kit.

 

Sooo, Lets say I knew a guy that had a truck that he doesnt drive and he want to part the truck out.

What kind of a deal could he offer a fellow FTE member where they would both be happy with the end result

 

I am also interested in this idea. The fabbing part is easy enough it is just the turbo that is killer on the wallet. I had a buddy that picked up a turbo for is mustang for about $75. Do most of them make about the same boost etc. ?

 

I'm absolutely not an expert in this field; however, I've recently discovered some things regarding the non-wastegated setups for these IDIs. It seems, from the information I got when I was rebuilding, that the center section of the ATS 088 is a T4, and then of course it has the proprietary exhaust/turbine housing. But the compressor side could most likely be played with using different compressor housings, backing plates, and compressor wheels. I've been wondering myself lately if a "Super 60" compressor side would be beneficial to my 088 setup...

 

Im planning on using two turbos off a couple vovo diesels (223cid) They make like 7 pounds im told and can be turned up a little since theyre wastegated. From what i understand taking one of something else supposedly doesnt work that well in the end but i know my old roomate took one off a dt466 and put on his stroker and made a ton more power. I also heard a guy took one off a 5.9 cummins and put it on a 300 I-6 and worked pretty decent.

 

Don't know if this would be of much help but I stumbled upon this site earlier today.

The Turbo Forums.com

 

Nothing is impossible.

Just start looking at the engine, and where everything is.

You just need to get the exhaust up to the turbo/turbo's then back down to the exhaust system.

Next you need an oil supply or two and a way to get the oil back into the engine.

After that you need to get the air out of the turbo/turbo's and into the intake and a way to get filtered air to the turbo intake.

The distance from the exhaust manifolds to the turbo should be as short as possible, you don't want to loose much heat before the turbo, the bends should flow well and the pipe needs to be 2.25" ID between them.

Distance for the compressor outlet to the intake manifold as short as possible.

Exhaust from the turbo out 3" is good.

And the last thing to keep in mind is you may have to work on glow plugs, injectors or injector return lines.

When you take all that into consideration, unless you can park your truck for a couple weeks, and are right good at metal fabrication (cutting, bending, welding, machining) 2000 for a brand new turbo system starts looking right good.

With the ATS 093 turbo, #7 glow plug is a pain to change.
Other than that one glow plug, the rest of the engine is rather easy to get to after you remove the air cleaner.

 

Thanks Dave! What about the average boost of different turbos? Are they pretty much the same?

 

There are all different sizes and trims of turbo's out there.

Where it takes research is figuring out how much boost you can run, how much exhaust speed and volume you have to spool the turbo up and how many CFM's of air you want at what pressure.

Off the top of my head, I think I have a .70 AR turbo on mine now.
24 or 25 PSI at 3300 RPM is pushing it hard, but I can be boosting 10 or 12 PSI by 1500 RPM which is where I like the boost better.
Hammering the engine wide open all day just burns to much fuel, so a bigger AR which would build more boost at wide open would kill me at the fuel pumps and my power at lower RPM's.

 

I am running a 60-1 compressor side on my 088 and while it did make some difference, it wasn't night and day. I got anywhere from 1-2 PSI across the range which IMO was not worth the cost. My injector pump is probably getting weak though, so that might be holding the boost back a little. The truck does have more ***** now, but its only going from a butt dyno so take it for what thats worth.

I think the ATS 093 is much closer to being a "standard" turbocharger so maybe that would be a better system to build up. If nothing else, you can cheat the setup by jambing the wastegate shut. The non gated setups just flow too well for real amounts of boost below 3000 RPM.

 

david what kind of boost are you making my hypermax kit made 15 max but normally 10-13 and i though that was pretty good. expecially when i put first put it on that was like night and day going NA to turbo

 

I think that's probably what I'm looking to gain, in at least a way. I'd like the boost to come in a little sooner, so maybe a 60 is the ticket to where I need to go. Thanks for that info!

 

I can manage 11 PSI right now in warmer weather. Last winter it was closer to 13.

Now a few years ago before I rebuilt the engine and I turned the fuel up all the way, I did see 14 PSI ONCE (before the turbo upgrade).

Immediately before the more recent 60-1 upgrade, I was hitting a ceiling of about 10 PSI, so it did make a difference. In theory the turbo is probably also flowing more (raw PSI isn't all that matters) so maybe the aging injector pump is holding me back more than I know.

It will make about 2.5 PSI at 1500 RPM right now, but it just seems to hold the hills better than before. Going all out, the truck maxes out at 75 MPH on a 10% grade. There is a dyno shop in town, but I never paid them a visit yet.

Just so you know, the larger compressor will do nothing to reduce turbo lag.

The upgrade did cut down on exhaust smoke too. Only a slight haze when going for broke on that 10% hill.