6.4L Short Block
#1
6.4L Short Block
Would like some opinions on a used 2008 F250 Lariat FX4 6.4L diesel, automatic that I'm considering purchasing (need higher towing capacity than my F150 V8). Truck has 260k miles on it; however, the Ford dealer did a short block replacement of the 6.4 due to blow by last July at a cost of about $10k. Engine currently has 7500 miles on it. Cosmetically, truck looks like new, has brush guard, 20" Toyo's (new), nice wheels, crew cab, etc. Price is $22k. Obvious concern is the 260k miles on the rest of the drive train. Would you go for it or not touch it with a 10 ft pole?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
#5
m-chan,
You have the floor here and I'm sure that everyone is on board.
WHAT do you think is the most important things you can do to minimize failure.
It is a diesel. What are the weak points. If you had one, and your intimate with them, what exactly is worth the merit of doing to make it as stone cold as the legendary 7.3??
You have the inside to failures and the exact escape route to avoid the most common.
I'll show you my **** if you show me yours
Denny
You have the floor here and I'm sure that everyone is on board.
WHAT do you think is the most important things you can do to minimize failure.
It is a diesel. What are the weak points. If you had one, and your intimate with them, what exactly is worth the merit of doing to make it as stone cold as the legendary 7.3??
You have the inside to failures and the exact escape route to avoid the most common.
I'll show you my **** if you show me yours
Denny
#6
To start with, this engine was only offered in the Ford Super Duty F-250 to F-550 platform for the model years 2008, 2009 and 2010. Prior to that, was the very publicly denigrated 6.0L (a. k. a. VT365 in Navistar speak), which quite honestly is now the diesel I would prefer over a 6.4L (a. k. a. Maxxforce 7 in Navistar speak) for expense of repair if I had to choose between the two. Some time back in August of 2011, when I was truck shopping, I was offered the opportunity to purchase either a 2007 F-250 6.0L CCSB 4x4 or 2008 F-250 6.4L CCSB 4x4 from one of our sister dealers for very similar money. I chose the 6.0L and put another 110,000 kms. on it before I sold it back in July of 2015 to get into my current 2016 F-250 6.7L CCSB 4x4 which I am very happy with thus far.
To start with, these 6.4L engines are well known for "making oil" either by way of internal high pressure fuel system leaks (which by the way are extremely difficult and time consuming to pinpoint the source of on this particular engine) and/or frequent regens which are dependent on vehicle usage and fuel quality usage. Why Navistar chose to locate the crankcase vent so low on this engine block is beyond me. With the high propensity for crankcase overfilling due to fuel dilution, having the crankcase vent in said location makes for an excellent inlet for fuel/oil being sucked into the air inlet and causing an engine runaway (or in Ford speak "thermal event"). As far as how to prevent such event from occurring? Well, checking your oil level regularly seems to be a must, and adjust/repairing as necessary. Letting the truck regen uninterrupted SHOULD also reduce frequency of regens. Not letting the engine idle for too long will also help reduce plugging up the DPF with soot (and thereby requiring a regen). Repairing any source of internal high pressure fuel system leak also helps (injector(s) and high pressure fuel pumps etc.). But those are pricey repairs on this engine.
Now let's get into the engine and mechanicals of this engine. Forget about the fact that nearly everything under the hood requires cab removal to access. The cost factor of all the engine parts plays a huge role in the expense of repairs for this engine. The rocker arm tips are notorious for premature failure, for reasons I can't fathom. I've seen many of these engines with only 60,000 miles (100,000 kms.) or less with the rocker arm tips worn almost flush if not outright missing at all (while the 6.0L I have apart with either double or triple the mileage has all its rocker arm tips completely intact). Conjecture from educated sources seem content to blame the lack of sufficient lubrication to be the culprit. As far as how to prevent? Repair as necessary. There's also the much more labour intrusive cam/roller lifter failure that these engines are famous for. The ones I've seen, where a pushtube has bent, and/or rocker arm broken have almost always been the result of a failed lifter/cam. Removing the cam on this engine, mandates engine removal, complete disassembly right down to crankshaft removal in order to access, just like on a 6.0L, making engine replacement the more cost effective "repair". And then, for some God forsaken reason, these engines' "favourite" cylinders to fail are #2 and #8. I've seen my share of #8 rod bent caused by horizontal EGR cooler failure and subsequent hydrolock.
Now let's move onto Ford/Motorcraft replacement engine long block/short block assemblies. I have already replaced multiple "drop-in" engine assemblies from Ford, two of which I've had issues with shortly after the fact. One such engine I had a rocker arm fall off, after initial engine startup. Another, the vehicle came in on the hook after it ran away, after only about 1000 kms. since replacement which resulted in yet another replacement. I've now just recently come across yet another truck that already had the engine replaced by another dealer within two years, that's now making horrible engine noises before it sounds like it's about to grenade. I've forewarned the owner of this truck about the impending inevitable failure about to happen. He's decided to shop for a 6.2L gas truck as a replacement. I can't blame him one bit.
As far as what to do, to "prevent" these known failures? Keep your eyes on your engine oil and coolant levels regularly. Change your engine oil and filter sooner than manufacturer recommendations. Change your fuel filters every other oil change. And use only Ford/Motorcraft filters. But I'm sure you've heard this from many other fellow members too so what I'm saying is nothing new. And even after doing all this proactively and religiously, there's still no guarantee that it won't fail, as much as I hate to admit. Another fellow technician who I am friends with is now in a bind as far as what to do with his 2008. He's now on his SIXTH radiator (two of which were Mishimoto units). If a fellow technician is having issues with his, that tells me this is not a good platform to get into.
To start with, these 6.4L engines are well known for "making oil" either by way of internal high pressure fuel system leaks (which by the way are extremely difficult and time consuming to pinpoint the source of on this particular engine) and/or frequent regens which are dependent on vehicle usage and fuel quality usage. Why Navistar chose to locate the crankcase vent so low on this engine block is beyond me. With the high propensity for crankcase overfilling due to fuel dilution, having the crankcase vent in said location makes for an excellent inlet for fuel/oil being sucked into the air inlet and causing an engine runaway (or in Ford speak "thermal event"). As far as how to prevent such event from occurring? Well, checking your oil level regularly seems to be a must, and adjust/repairing as necessary. Letting the truck regen uninterrupted SHOULD also reduce frequency of regens. Not letting the engine idle for too long will also help reduce plugging up the DPF with soot (and thereby requiring a regen). Repairing any source of internal high pressure fuel system leak also helps (injector(s) and high pressure fuel pumps etc.). But those are pricey repairs on this engine.
Now let's get into the engine and mechanicals of this engine. Forget about the fact that nearly everything under the hood requires cab removal to access. The cost factor of all the engine parts plays a huge role in the expense of repairs for this engine. The rocker arm tips are notorious for premature failure, for reasons I can't fathom. I've seen many of these engines with only 60,000 miles (100,000 kms.) or less with the rocker arm tips worn almost flush if not outright missing at all (while the 6.0L I have apart with either double or triple the mileage has all its rocker arm tips completely intact). Conjecture from educated sources seem content to blame the lack of sufficient lubrication to be the culprit. As far as how to prevent? Repair as necessary. There's also the much more labour intrusive cam/roller lifter failure that these engines are famous for. The ones I've seen, where a pushtube has bent, and/or rocker arm broken have almost always been the result of a failed lifter/cam. Removing the cam on this engine, mandates engine removal, complete disassembly right down to crankshaft removal in order to access, just like on a 6.0L, making engine replacement the more cost effective "repair". And then, for some God forsaken reason, these engines' "favourite" cylinders to fail are #2 and #8. I've seen my share of #8 rod bent caused by horizontal EGR cooler failure and subsequent hydrolock.
Now let's move onto Ford/Motorcraft replacement engine long block/short block assemblies. I have already replaced multiple "drop-in" engine assemblies from Ford, two of which I've had issues with shortly after the fact. One such engine I had a rocker arm fall off, after initial engine startup. Another, the vehicle came in on the hook after it ran away, after only about 1000 kms. since replacement which resulted in yet another replacement. I've now just recently come across yet another truck that already had the engine replaced by another dealer within two years, that's now making horrible engine noises before it sounds like it's about to grenade. I've forewarned the owner of this truck about the impending inevitable failure about to happen. He's decided to shop for a 6.2L gas truck as a replacement. I can't blame him one bit.
As far as what to do, to "prevent" these known failures? Keep your eyes on your engine oil and coolant levels regularly. Change your engine oil and filter sooner than manufacturer recommendations. Change your fuel filters every other oil change. And use only Ford/Motorcraft filters. But I'm sure you've heard this from many other fellow members too so what I'm saying is nothing new. And even after doing all this proactively and religiously, there's still no guarantee that it won't fail, as much as I hate to admit. Another fellow technician who I am friends with is now in a bind as far as what to do with his 2008. He's now on his SIXTH radiator (two of which were Mishimoto units). If a fellow technician is having issues with his, that tells me this is not a good platform to get into.
#7
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#8
absolllutely....too make welded blocks being used...I have yet to find a reman that replaces lifters all the time.....in most cases...parts are replaced if, maybe, could be, might not need to, well whos really looking anyway.
#10
I agree with bubbasz1 while this is a mostly american forum. DFC in Alberta Canada does an awesome rebuilt/ upgrade. Am very happy with my 08 with a delete and coolant filter after 224 km (about 180 miles). Have to agree the cab lift is a PIA but love my truck and would install a DFC rebuild in a minute versus a replacement 6.7 DEF dependent unit at $80,000 Canadian to fund a replacement truck comparable to my truck
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