Quick scenario, 93 FSuperDuty/450 with versalift boom, 186k, so far absolutely runs like a clock. I've done everything to it that has been suggested here (thanks again) and am impressed with the amount of knowledge compressed into this forum.

It's a work horse and I'd like to increase its versatility. Has an awesome fiberglass utility bed with diamond plate floors and lots of operable compartments. I would like to install my Vanner 2600 watt inverter and pick up a 12 volt compressor. The Vanner upconverts to 120/240 so its 12v power demands are substantial. Being that the electrical wiring/system is 17 years old, what I would like to do is provide a new set of HO batteries and an additional high output alternator so as to keep these accessories segregated on newly installed wiring that charges independently of the factory harness.

So I guess my question is if anyone is aware of an aftermarket source for the alternator and related brackets etc?? I can piece together all of the cabling/fusing/wiring myself. The truck does not have A/C so my chances of having a place to mount it are better than if it did have air. I'd like to keep from having to reinvent the wheel with pulleys and drive belts too.

Am I asking for too much here? Or is there an easier alternative? Thanks in advance.

 

My 92/3 manual shows Ambulances came with a Leece-Neville 165 amp alternators an amazing amount of power to run all the equipment. If you can find one in a bone yard or find the settup info there would be a consideration. This was part of the ambulance prep package.....

 

You might want to check into battery isolators.
RV supply houses would be a good place to look for them.
Let's one alternator charge two sets of batteries, but keeps the vehicle start batteries isolated from the auxiliary batteries when the engine is not running.

Use a set of deep cycle batteries for the compressor/converter and not worry about the starter batteries being drained when they are running but the engine isn't.
Fire the engine up, both sets of batteries get a charge from the same alternator.

You could upgrade the alternator if required, so no new belts or pulley's required.
Don't forget, vented compartment to install the auxiliary batteries in, hydrogen gas from the batteries charging/discharging makes a big boom if it ignites.

 

I have a deep cycle gel set up like that as an auxiliary with inverter. Set in the bed behind the rear axle gets more bounce so the gel eliminates spitting acid from the vent caps.

 

My 6.9 has 3 batts that my stock Alternator is charging through a battery isolator.

2 for the engine and 1 for the camper.

They all get a charge when the engine is running, but only the aux. deep cycle batt for the camper gets drained when using lights or other 12V things in the camper.

Works great, never had a problem with that.

That may be a good thing for your application to.

 

I would check into a delco 1st choice or leece neville from a 80's or 90's truck they have built in regulators and a large charge terminal and You can pick up 145 amp leece neville new with no core for around 150 bucks. the delcos run a little highers but are tough.

 

here looks likes a good deal on a 200 amp alt if this helps:
HIGH OUTPUT 200AMP ALTERNATOR 93-01 FORD EXPLORER 4.0:eBay Motors (item 110471684127 end time Jan-17-10 15:07:07 PST)

if his application listing is correct.she fits:
FORD F-SERIES PICKUPS 93 7.3L(445) V8 (Diesel) wo/Ambulance Pkg

man,that would be a sweet upgrade.
i don't need it no more than nothing though lol.

 

LOL it would take half of that 4.0 to pull it.

 

Wow, go away for 24 hours and you guys solve all my problems AND save me a bunch of $$$ and hassles. Anyone need a job?<g>
The isolator and an additional pair of batteries are the way to go. From the little I've looked into thus far it would seem that I need to over amp the isolator to be on the safe side and replace the existing alternator, which is new but not high output. Should save a bunch of cabling too since I think I could then just hook up the demand sides of the accessories to a couple of fused relays at the utility bed instead of running everything back under the hood. Good oppurtunity to hook up a couple of strobes too since theyre required to pass safety here in IL.
Please feel free to correct me if I'm missing something here.
And thanks a lot Dave for keeping me from inadvertantly creating a hydrogen bomb.

 

or do a 3g alt conversion i think the 1 i have for mine is 175 amp

 

lms - you are deffinatly on the right track. your isolator needs to have a higher rating than you alternator, and either going 3g or a delco 1 wire will get you there easily. On one of mine that I am building for work I am putting a 4 battery deep cycle bank in the bed and am swapping to a delco 300 amp (early 90's cads with the with a windshield heater had them...$35 junk yard finds).

One thought, for rare occiasions, but is a "butt saver", look for an isolator from the RV industry that supports emergency start....give you a dash switch to bring the deep cycles (or house batteries) back into the starting loop. Effectivly you can jump start your self. You will rarely need it, but all it takes is one time leaving the strobes/warning lights running with the motor off and not have enough juice to crank it over....and in an IL winter, more amperage = easier starting anyway