I was having fuel delivery problems, and got that sorted out. But before I did, I blew a fusible link (that powered the pumps) and replaced it. Put on a new dual pump reservoir, and she started right up. Ran great for a few days, then it would not start from the key. I replaced the starter relay, and starter solenoid, but still no go. Wont start at the key but will start and run by jumping the terminals on the solenoid. Did this with the old and new starter solenoid and starter relay. When I turn the key to start, nothing happens, but all the dash lights dim a little like power is trying to go somewhere.

So Im wondering if maybe I connected the wires incorrectly when I re-installed the starter solenoid. I have all of the little connections going to the same side of the Solenoid. Is that right? Can someone please post a good pic of their starter solenoid and which wires are coming off of each connection on it?

Also I will re-examine my fusible link patch to my solenoid to make sure that it doesn't have a short anywhere, and I will also check all my other fusible links, and check my fuses under the dash. It was too late when I got home today.

Thanks

 

If you look at the top of the relay there is a light gauge wire with a push on connector. Pull the wire off and jump from that terminal to the terminal with the battery wire attached. If the starter runs then put a test light on between the little wire you have pulled off and ground and turn the key to "start", the test light should come on. If not you have a problem with the ignition switch or the linkage between it and the key switch.

 

Depending on Transmission type (Auto/Manual), you may have a bad Neutral Safety Switch or Clutch Interlock. If you have no power at the wire described above check these switches first.

 

I'll give that a try and see what I can find out. Its weird because it would not start at the key once, so I jumped the terminals on the starter solenoid and drove home. When I got home, I tried it at the key again and it fired right up. Ran for a few more days, now it wont start from the key again.

I'll give your suggestions a try and report back.

thanks

 

I've got an automatic, but I tried putting it in nuetral already and that didn't work. Thanks though.

 

Just because its in neutral doesnt mean it will work. As they said, start with the small gauge wire (ignition) on the starter solenoid because that seems easiest. Then, as they said I would suspect the neutral safety switch being bad, and if the switch is bad whether its in neutral or park, it may not start or also the ignition switch if its worn it can cause intermittent problems like this.

 

Your truck should have a 3 post relay, two large posts and one little post.

The red light blue wire is the neutral safety switch or in your case "gear select" switch.

Power from the ignition switch "Start" position, to and through the gear select switch to the relay on the fender energizing it to start the truck.

If you bought a 4 post relay it should have included a little jumper wire, goes from the relay's main battery post to the second post, the extra small post you otherwise would not need.

If you do have two small wires, sounds like you do? one goes on each of the small posts. The relay should be marked as to what goes on each post. If you get it backwards and it doesn't start just switch em.

 

Ok, I'm waiting on the Mrs. to get home so that she can watch my daughter while I fiddle with the truck. I always thought that a bad nuetral safety switch would not start in park, but would start in nuetral. Thats why I tried that right away when the truck wouldn't start. How do I test a NSS?

I will try the suggestions about the ign wire in the other post first.

 

My truck had a 3-post solenoid, but the replacement has 4 with the 4th being unused right now. It did not come with the jumper cable but I can make one. It goes from the main battery post on the solenoid to small unused one at the bottom of the solenoid correct. I only have one small wire which is why the 4th post is unused. I will check it out.

Thanks for the responses guys. Keep em coming so that I have several different things I can go through if the previous suggestions yeild no results.

lopitt85

 

I have all of the little connections going to the same side of the Solenoid. Is that right?

Oh I thought this meant you had more then one small wire, two like the newer trucks have.
The relays seam to all come with 4 posts now, probably because they work with both applications, but should have included a small jumper for use on the 3 post apps.

So yea, jump a scrap wire from the positive battery post to the small unused post on the relay then try the key, if it cranks over make your own little jumper and you'll be all set.

Make a short jumper to go from the large "battery" post on the relay to that little post.

 

Ok, I gave it a try and the starter did run when I jumped the "push on" terminal to the the "battery" terminal. But when I connected my test light to the push on connector and a ground, the light did not come on when the ignition was put in the "start" position.

I then did the jumper wire suggested by dan1r to see if that made a difference but I had the same results. I'm going to try replacing the ignition switch, and see if I notice anything odd about the linkage to the ign switch.

Will post results

 

I'd check the Neutral Safety Switch before I went out and spent any money on parts you may not need.

 

Can you tell me how I go about checking the NSS? I would have no problem checking it if I knew how. Also, the Ignition switch is only like $12 bucks so its not an expensive part.

 

Back probe the RED/LT. BLUE wires at the Neutral Safety Switches connector. There are 2 of them. In Park and Neutral, you are looking for a closed connection. If you can't get a good connection or if you would prefer, unplug the connector and run a temporary jumper (Paper clip works well here) between these 2 wires and see if the truck will crank.

 

What do you mean by back probe? I have a test light that I ground on one end, and I can test for power by peircing the insulation around the wire with the other end. Is that what you mean? Or am I going to be checking for power at a connecter that links the red wire to the light blue wire?