Hello everyone! My name is Josh Grizzle and I am VERY new to the concept of rebuilding engines. I have done hours of research and purchased several books to aid me in this lengthy excursion. I also have at my disposal a few friends that could come to my rescue when needed, so I'm not %100 in the dark.


I purchased a white/blue 1971 Ford F250 with a FE 360 Automatic in June, 2009 - Since then I have done every imaginable "Tune up" that a guy like me knows how to. Oil change / Valve cover gaskets / sending units / plugs / wires / cap / and even a new distributor (That was fun) I knew at some point I would need to do rebuild this motor. It wasn't until I started itching to fix this exhaust leak on the passenger side manifold /exhaust area. The bolt near the #4 cylinder was broken some time ago, and therefore the truck is VERY LOUD. It wasn't to bad at first, but I've since then grown tired of the rumble.

My Father and I have wanted to rebuild and engine for a long time, so here's our chance! I have been known to take on projects that are out of my league and overcame the odds to complete them.

Here's what I am looking for in this rebuild:

1) Near stock rebuild.
2) Low budget (I know, FE = Freaking expensive)
3) No time limit really - so I can take my time and do things right.
4) Quite operation. I'm not looking to hotrod this truck by any means - that will be the next project.


I started tearing the truck down on September, 19, 2009 and I plan on actually pulling the motor this coming weekend. The reason I have allowed a WEEK to get the truck ready is for a few reasons. I need some help - and I am methodically tagging / bagging everything I take off this motor. I have sandwich bags with nuts/bolts on them labeled so I don't forget where they went. My wife has taken several pictures so far as well. I am somewhat unclear on engine removal in ONE area - Transmission. The books I have don't get into DETAIL on how to disconnect the transmission so I gather it cant be THAT tough, but then again I've never done it. I just take out the bolts and support the transmission with a 2X4 on the cross member? Do I need to do anything with the drive line before hand?

I will keep this one thread going with my working updates - pictures - questions etc. I would greatly appreciate any tips / tricks when it comes to rebuilding this engine.

Thanks in advance to everyone - Sorry for the long opening post on this topic!!

Also: Here is the link for my photo bucket which has before / during pictures currenlty

http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii315/Spacehog33/

 

Engine from trans:

First, it's important to be able to pull the engine straight off the trans--no angle or tip up or down, lest you break the case by putting strain on the input shaft.

-Support the trans.

-Pull linkages, especially the carb kickdown.

-Pull hoses, especially modulator, possibly trans cooler if connected to the engine or interfering with the engine.

-Pull the starter.

-unbolt trans from engine, pull away.

Since you've done all this research, certainly you know what a pooch a stock 360 can be. 390 crank and rods, 360 pistons in the proper oversize is the way to 9.5 or so compression.

Got this book?

http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-BI.../dp/0895860708

 

Yes I do, I've read it twice cover to cover - I'm currently following it - Great book

 

Is it feasible to make this truck pretty quite?

 

Full aircleaner for intake silencing. You can add another snorkel if you are good with sheetmetal work. Use ducting to get the intake air from outside the engine compartment. Many stock setups already do this.

Headers? Buy good ones so you don't have leaks.

Exhaust: It is possible to run dual exhaust with a crossover through large steel mufflers, then out behind the rear wheels and have it be very quiet.

You can't even hear our Lexus run at idle or cruise, but nail it and when it hits 4500 rpm it's got nice music going. Big steel mufflers and smaller ones at the ends of the pipes, iirc, too dark to crawl under it at present.

You may have some issues with pipes due to the fuel tank location. You can join the pipes and go with a larger single pipe, but again, you need a big, higher capacity muffler to deal with it.

Of course, a cork-like stocker muffler that makes the exhaust system hiss due to back pressure when you nail it will be quiet too.....

 

The gas tank under the truck is not currently hooked up - I use the one behind the seat as my Primary. (The one underneath has a hole in it)

 

Should I even run the stock intake? I've seen pretty much everyone replace them. Id like to NOT replace it, due to cost but if it is %100 worth it - I will.

 

If you are going to keep it stock, leave the 2bbl intake. "100% worth it"? Only in conjunction with other improvements will you get "100%" of what an intake/4bbl set up will offer.

You can run a 4bbl with the same aircleaner on a Ford, as they use the same size for 2 and 4 bbl.

Are you going to replace the under-truck tank? If so, route the exhaust to the other side.

 

Mondays update:

Still slowly tearing down engine accessories. The one thing that is giving me a problem are the transmission cooler lines into the radiator. I've done everything I can think of to break these loose but its just wanting to strip.

I looked in my LMC truck magazine and its like $55.00 for a new set, which is looking pretty good. I had to walk away from the truck and watch the game.

 

Watching this with interest as I am deciding what do do with my 'first' rebuild. - Thanks for posting - Please continue. I too am taking a thousand pictures as I strip the whole truck. So perhaps if we still miss something - or it is not clear etc - we can compare notes !.

All the best - Stephen

 

That sounds good Stephen, I'm sure I will miss a few things

 

If you are keeping the 360 crank I don't think I'd replace the intake or go 4bbl. The 360 doesn't make very good use of the fuel or air you give it, so giving it more means you waste more. If you switch to a 390 crank, different story. You can make a very impressive engine out of a 390 for a moderate cost. You can spend a lot of money on a 360 and have a reliable but unimpressive engine.

Adding headers will help as the worst breathing problem on the FEs was on the exhaust side, but I put them on my 360 and honestly all it did was make it sound better.

 

I figured out tonight that I'm going to REALLY need air tools. I'll be picking some up for sure. Pulling the radiator is proving to be a little task in itself.

The two bottom bolts there isn't much room to swing any wrenches. I'll just get a air ratchet and I should have no problems - I hope.

 

..if you have a decent compressor

 

Yeah I do - A very nice one.