Suggest that when you get them to do the work that you look at the oiling mods in the FAQ section and have them done when you are having the machine work done. It should not be very expensive.
I'm just getting back from the machine shop. I went down there today and the owner took an hour out of his day to show me all the options and prices on my motor. VERY NICE GUY.
I had him give me two estimates. The fist being the economy version (low price)
And the second being the "done right" version.
ECONOMY:
Assemble prep block: Deburr lifter and cam bearing bores. Clean and inspect bolt holes, install cam bearings and fit camshaft. Install expansion plugs and oil galley plugs. Clean and bag engine block for final assembly.
Hone Block, Polish Crankshaft, valve job (Full) Install new guides/seats. Surface heads - Extract 3 broken bolts. Clean all parts for assembly (No charge)
Full engine kit MINUS Pistons and Wrist pins. No decking, boring etc. Like I said this is the ECONOMY Version.
Total $1,307.39
The "Do it right" version is listed below:
Assemble prep block: Deburr lifter and cam bearing bores. Clean and inspect bolt holes, install cam bearings and fit camshaft. Install expansion plugs and oil galley plugs. Clean and bag engine block for final assembly.
Bore, Hone Block
Recondition Rods
R&R and Align rods
Recondition SM. End of Rod
Line Bore Block
Surface cylinder block surface
Grind crankshaft
Full valve job
new guides/seats
surface all mating surfaces.
FULL ENGINE KIT
$2,000
I'm weighing both options at the moment. I really wanted to know what you guys thought of using the same pistons?
Thanks again!
-Josh
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1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
If the block needs an overbore you cannot use the same pistons. Think about it, the rings would have and extra .030 diameter and would flex as the piston moved effectively rounding the edges. They quickly get beat to hell by a loose piston to bore fit. Draw two circles with a compass 4.05 center and 4.08 aligned to the tangent of the 4.05 and you'll get the idea of what would happen to the piston/rings.
If the block needs an overbore you cannot use the same pistons. Think about it, the rings would have and extra .030 diameter and would flex as the piston moved effectively rounding the edges. They quickly get beat to hell by a loose piston to bore fit. Draw two circles with a compass 4.05 center and 4.08 aligned to the tangent of the 4.05 and you'll get the idea of what would happen to the piston/rings.
He says that all it NEEDS is a hone and cleaning. Does a hone take a lot away?
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1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
He says that all it NEEDS is a hone and cleaning. Does a hone take a lot away?
Don't bore it if you don't have to. The only reason to bore it is if it is tapered or has some other out of true condition (being off center doesn't count).
Be sure he is stating it doesn't require and overbore as taper will work the new rings in quick. If it doesn't need to be bored it's possible the pistons are ok. "But have them document it in writing" IMO
Be sure he is stating it doesn't require and overbore as taper will work the new rings in quick. If it doesn't need to be bored it's possible the pistons are ok. "But have them document it in writing" IMO
Mind if I jump in here?
Great job on getting it out and this far! It's even more FUN putting it together! I've never seen an engine so black and when you said you smell burnt oil, I can see why! That thing was run HOT and lean for a long time!
I'm with Redman - get everything in writing (they usually do). Ask them to measure everything and put it on the invoice so you can "have a record in case you sell it".
They measured it for round and it doesn't need overboring/truing. If it doesn't (and you are going to rebuild another engine someday), buy a hone and learn to do it yourself - it's VERY easy. I'm surprised you got the pistons out without reaming the cyclinders too... honing takes little if nothing off the wall, it just preps it for the rings to seat.
Wether it needs an overbore or not, they'll tell you and then you buy the appropriate rings. Same with the bushings - you'll buy stock, or .001 or 002, etc....
I'd also put the cam in myself, as well as the frost plugs. That book you bought will have instructions for all that. Getting the frost plugs out is one of the funnest parts too!
Normally, once it's back from the machine shop, you'd wash it again with a set of gun cleaning brushes and chase all the threads (run through them all with the appropriate sized taps), then blow it dry with compressed air, spray lube all over it and bag it - it's ready to assemble. If they're saying they'll do all that for the $1000 price...hmmmm.
Anyhow, I have a flathead engine rebuild thread going on here too. While I've done a few engines, it's my first flathead! Check it out here:
The part that shocked me the MOST was the cost of the heads to be done - its around $600.00
I wanted to assemble the heads myself, but he said its part of the package.
And by the way E-tec - I LOVED popping out the freeze plugs - I got to release some anger there haha.
I'll be gone all next week so he's going to just hold everything until I get back from my business trip.
What are your guys's thoughts on the engine KITS? It would help me out a lot if I could just pick the engine up from the shop without the kit, and purchase parts when I can and install them myself.
This guy is used to doing all this himself especially seeing a guy as "Green" as me walk through the door - he's blinded by the $$$$$$$$$ flashing in his eyes like a slot machine.
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1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
Both options will work and run just fine. However, the "do it right" version will run way smoother, and probably last about twice as long as the "economy" version.
On an FE build, I wouldn't skimp on machine work, or parts. The extra few bucks to do it right are well spent IMOP.
Also, those prices sound high to me.... Mine was completely rebuilt and assembled for 1800.00 total, all new parts, and it included balancing ( overkill)
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I painted the dang thing camoflage, now I cant find it!!
74 F100 4X4 Grump-a-saurass
Grizzle, Where do you live ? The prices seem kinda on the high side. And the 'do it right' price could be misleading.....are they going to do a line hone whether the block needs it or not ? Grinding the crank, same issue......more than 9 out of 10 FE cranks don't need to be reground. A polish and go is more than enough. Is the crank going to be reground because you need it, or because the guy wants to pay off his grinder ?
And on the 360 v 390 issue, the engine is not worth rebuilding as a 360. The 360 has too short of an assembled height, and this problem causes the engine to use more fuel than it has to. You will be way ahead to build it as a 390. The 390 cranks are very available an usually cheap. 390 rods are cheap too, and you might be able to use the 360 rods, depending on your piston choice. You do have to be careful with piston choice on a 390, because the piston 999 out of 1000 wharehouses will send you duplicates the assembled hieght problems the later model 390s all have. But done with a little foretought, and a 390 can be nothing short of amazing. DinosaurFan, at his Dad's house
Hey, i haven't been on here in awhille but i have a couple questions myslelf.
I have a 360 that i am rebuilding. I have put everything new in besides new rockers which i need to do. I wanna make it a 390 so do i Just need to change out the crank and the rods or do i need to worry about the pistons also. I have a 4 BBL carb on it and an rv cam. You talked about the oil mods were do i find those? Thanks for the help this is a great thread i remmeber my first rebuild pretty exciting lol.
Hello everyone, I thought I would revive this post (if it lets me) and let you know whats been going on.
I had the motor down at the machine shop for about 45 days, he wanted all the money up front and kept changing his mind about what the motor needs. After a few nasty messages on my machine, I just went down and paid for the inspection and took my stuff home. I'm in the process of finding a new machine shop.
I need help from someone on here to tell me what pistons I should buy? Im going to take the new pistons and block to a new machine shop and just get done what NEEDS to be done.
Any help is greatly appreciated. I just dont know where to start.
What I need is:
New Camshaft
Pistons
lifters
Im going to polish my crank.
Thanks again!
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1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
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make a 390 out of it.
