I have NO Idea how much a 390 crank would cost - If its efficient I'll do it. If this crank for some reason is OK to use still, I might have second thoughts - what does everyone else think?
__________________
1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
so from what i am seeing - turning it into a 390 is as cheap as redoing a 352 or 360 ?
The 352 cost more, the pistons are more and so are the rings. Minutely but more. If reliability and ease of rebuild is the goal. LEAVE IT, unless you need a new crank, "not likely" then and only then would I do a 390 as it will require new rods as well. Cant hurt to ask the machinist if they have a 390 crank/rods that are RTA and just swap out the parts for a little $. The 390 would be a plus but you may find it hard to keep your foot out of it!!
A 390 crank and rods will make more power with the same fuel milage, if you are going to the trouble of doing the engine (I assume that you will probably have a little machining) a 390 crank and rods can often be had pretty cheap. I was looking at a set here in Calgary (not a lot of good to you) for $150 - that included the heads and the crank was virgin.
You should also look at the info on this site about oiling mods. Not a lot of effort when it is apart. If you do both, at some point in the future a little porting and polishing, a cam, and a set of headers and you will be the envy of the Chevy crowd. I did a stock rebuild on my 360 and regretted it ever since. I solved the problem by buying a 410, but for a few $100 I could have had what I wanted in the first place. It can be the difference between wanting to pass and passing.
The motor is pretty much tore down - I just need to remove the crank / cam and it will be on its way to the machine shop this week.
What do you guys think about these piston bearings?
I'm pretty sure they are toast because I can see the copper on all of them.
Also, This is probably normal on engine tear downs, but I can smell burnt oil when taking out bolts. It's very strong. When I took the bolts out of the caps that was the worst.
Here are a few pictures. As usual, more on the photo bucket.
ALSO - That timing set is junk?
Thanks!
__________________
1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
Congratulations, on your progress, You might want to take your Crank to the shop also to have it checked, maybe reground and polished, then buy the correct bearings for it.
MARK THE MAIN CAPS BEFORE TAKING THEM OUT!!!!!!!!!!!! The #1,2 & 4 caps are easy to mix up once removed. I'd talk with the machinist first and mention swapping out a crank kit. They may have a set of 390 rods and a crank you can just swap out for some extra $
MARK THE MAIN CAPS BEFORE TAKING THEM OUT!!!!!!!!!!!! The #1,2 & 4 caps are easy to mix up once removed. I'd talk with the machinist first and mention swapping out a crank kit. They may have a set of 390 rods and a crank you can just swap out for some extra $
I did do that! I used a number punch set on them.
I just got off the phone with the machine shop and I got a few prices from them.
One guy told me around $800.00 and another said $1,500 (He wanted to put it back together)
I am taking the following items to the shop:
Heads
Block
Crank
Cam
Pistons / rods
Rockers
And pretty much everything else I can grab. I asked about CLEANING all the tin if they could throw that in, but he wanted $50.00 to clean it - I'll do that myself - save some scratch.
Also, when I asked him about cleaning the intake he said
"That's a whole nother ball game" Whatever that means - is there some kind of special way to clean it?
Thanks
-Josh
__________________
1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
Find a shop with a bake-blast & shake SunnenŽ or similar. The should charge about 50.00 a load and it will be worth it after you scrub for a little while. Block and intake in a bake & blast come out looking new. No way a hot tank can get it like that. have a look at John's equipment Costa Mesa R&D
If you want to help them with the intake just take a chisel to the rivets on the base and work them loose. Then the cover comes off and it's just caked on crap. Tap the holes for bolts for reassembly later and send it off to be cleaned.
I was going to drop all this off down at the machine shop today so I proceeded to pull out the crank. I can pull it out about 1/2 way and one of the lobes gets caught in a bearing. I'm going to have to leave it for the machine shop I think.
What causes it to do that?
__________________
1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
I was going to drop all this off down at the machine shop today so I proceeded to pull out the crank. I can pull it out about 1/2 way and one of the lobes gets caught in a bearing. I'm going to have to leave it for the machine shop I think.
What causes it to do that?
Crank or Cam ? I'm guessing Cam, the bearings will be removed anyhow so no worries on them. Trying not to damage the lobes the journals should move freely through the bearings unless you ding a bearing. Then it will bind, just use a wooden dowel and a rubber mallet to assist it while holding the cam with the other hand so it doesnt go baning through the tunnel. The cam should be tossed and a new one used, IMO ....however provided it checks out you could just go with a new set of lifters. At the cost of a cheapo RV cam $50.00 it's just a good idea to bite the bullet
I just took the parts to the machine shop - very nice shop - very clean.
The only thing I am locked onto right now is the $75.00 cleaning and inspection fee, I will know exactly what they want to charge on Friday - after they complete the cleaning.
I did prod around a bit about the cost. He said for the machine shop service they charge around $1,600.00 - That seems HIGH to me. He's probably thinking he will rebuild it too.
I'm sure there are extra charges to rebuild the heads and other misc parts. I explained to him that I am going to build the engine myself, and then he threw a really good deal at me. For $350.00 they rebuild the motor for you, and give you a 3 year 30,000 mile warranty on their work. (Clearances etc. I can do that though!)
I'll make another post on Friday about the exact costs - hell I'll scan it. Any help is a appreciated as usual.
Thanks!
-Josh
__________________
1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
Crank or Cam ? I'm guessing Cam, the bearings will be removed anyhow so no worries on them. Trying not to damage the lobes the journals should move freely through the bearings unless you ding a bearing. Then it will bind, just use a wooden dowel and a rubber mallet to assist it while holding the cam with the other hand so it doesnt go baning through the tunnel. The cam should be tossed and a new one used, IMO ....however provided it checks out you could just go with a new set of lifters. At the cost of a cheapo RV cam $50.00 it's just a good idea to bite the bullet
And yes, the cam - sorry!
__________________
1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
