as far as quiet goes just put the right exhaust on it.
as for a manifold, the stock manifold will work fine but it weighs nearly 100lbs and an edelbrock manifold would prly cost $200-250 plus its a 4bbl which will help with performance.
personally i would put a 390 crank and rods in it ,an aluminum manifold on it, an rv cam, headers, and a road demon carb.
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"theres two kinds of people in this world, those with loaded guns, and those who dig. You dig"
I am in the exact same boat as you. I have a wore out 360. I am getting the parts together to make a decent engine (already got the 4bbl intake, carb, 390 rods) but I just don't want to rebuild it myself and have a pile of crap when i'm done so I will probably take it to a rebuilder. Look forward to your progress. Good luck
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If it ain't red, leave it in the shed
So we spent about 5 hours getting everything disconnected and pulled the inspection plate off the tranny and I could not for the life of me figure out which bolts I needed to pull. I refereed to my book and it said the ones in the hole. My brother and I proceeded to to pull the first bolt, and when we did fluid came out - I believe it was the converter. So those were the WRONG bolts.
So a buddy stopped by and said it was the FOUR bolts on studs - I tried to pull one of them but it wants to strip bad.
All of that BS coupled with the drivers side exhaust sitting RIGHT THERE I decided to call it a day, and watch some college football before I lost it
Any pointers to getting that tranny off?
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1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
They are not bolts they're nuts (auto locking) and have a chamfered head to the. I have the best results with a 6 point angular box end wrench. Loosen from pass side to driver side and a breaker wrench (larger box end wrench coupled through the open end of the main wrench) I find it works best to have the nut you want to loosen about 4'oclock (viewed from front of engine) make sure the bite is good and give it a once'er they usually break loose in one pop. Heres to progress
I just went outside and took some pictures of the tranny/engine removal problem I've ran into. I havent worked on the truck since lastnight, I'll have it out Tuesday night for sure (That's when my brother and father are available for helping)
Here's what I'm looking at
As you can see in pic # 2 that bolt wants to strip bad.
I'm going to be picking up some angled open end wrenches to help me out here.
So Those are the correct bolts? Or should I find some in a hole (Damn book)
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1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
I took the pictures laying under the truck with very little room. The camera was in between the exhaust and the tranny. That's looking at the inspection plate.
Stephen, the nuts feel as they are going to round off, yes. Its hard to explain, but they feel soft.
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1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
you definitely need a 6 point box-end or you will round them off, then it is vise-grip time and buy new nuts
in fact you should replace the nuts if there is any damage to the hex
once the nuts are off, remove all the trans to engine bolts, the top 2 can usually be removed from the top reaching between the engine and the firewall or from underneath with about 2' of extension and a swivel
to do that you will need to remove the rear trans mount/crossmember and let the trans rear down..........support on the pan with a jack to do this
you may have to use a pry bar to seperate as there are 2 dowels in the engine block that locate the transmission
the dowels are steel and the trans housing is aluminum and usually they are stuck
be sure to put a rag where the drive shaft was and have a catch pan, when the rear of the trans is lowered, the fluid will pour out
Just a suggestion but if you haven't read my thread on what I went through, you might pick up some ideas from it... I just went through getting my 2bbl 360 running great... The FE was new to me so had a lot of questions and had to do a lot of troubleshooting and some guessing...
The motor FINALLY came out on Friday night around 7:30
It was a blast pulling it out. Here are a few pictures of the motor on the stand. Please dont ask about the wrenches currently acting as washers on the top two mounts. Those will be out tomorrow morning.
A word of wisdom that I DIDN'T listen too and I should have, was the advice about the six sided wrench instead of 12 on the nuts inside the inspection cover. The first 3 nuts went perfect with a 12, but as you know - the 4th rounded off.
Nothing a Craftsman bolt out set didn't fix, but still.
I have a question about the converter now - I've heard many people say to be careful cause it will fall out after the motor's gone - but it seems pretty solid in there. I'm going to wire it up anyways.
Tommorow morning I'll start the engine tear down process. Lots more pictures to come. (Lots more in the photo bucket link in my signature also)
Thanks to everyone that aided me in getting that pig out.
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1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
good job !- do you know your plans on the rebuild - or does it depend onwhat you find ?
Keep the pictures coming - enjoying this thread and it helps tremendously - ty
- Stephen
My plan is to keep it stock, and keep the cost low - I would like to make it as reliable as possible - I'm not looking for POWER in this build, just a daily driver.
I'll get a little car to turn into a hot rod later.
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1971 F250 360 Automatic (Currently rebuilding)
In the process of My FIRST engine rebuild.
My plan is to keep it stock, and keep the cost low - I would like to make it as reliable as possible - I'm not looking for POWER in this build, just a daily driver.
I'll get a little car to turn into a hot rod later.
so from what i am seeing - turning it into a 390 is as cheap as redoing a 352 or 360 ?
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