Ok oddshot, I'm gonna admit that I was wrong. I rechecked the firing order today and discovered that it was all mixed up. I can't believe I didn't check where the wires were going to from the plugs. I just ASSUMED they must have been right since the truck WAS running what I would call "fairly well" before the whole head gasket incedent. I feel dumb now. However I think I'm beginning to understand more of what the manual is talking about.
Today I set it to TDC, but if I'm not mistaken shouldn't the rotor be pointing at the #1 plug at the same time? If so it's way off timing.
Also I am having trouble understanding the diagram of the firing order. At closer inspection it doesn't match up to my dist. cap.
The manual shows #1 where #6 currently is. The cap has a 1 on the first plug so this I AM sure of.
I'll take some pictures tomarrow and put them in my album. I am hoping to get a membership this next weekend so I can put pics in the post.
Ohh and it tells me to set it to TDC and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 before adjusting the valves. If this IS necassary I'll have to wait a few days to do anymore until I get the new air pump check valve in, as well as new plug wires so I can then rent a timing light to adjust the timing. (sigh)
At least when I get this truck on the road again I'll love it that much more.
Okay, bring the #1 cylinder to TDC. To make it easier, if need be, take out the distributor and put it back in with the rotor facing #1. From there, run the wires accordingly. Make sure you have the cylinder numbering down - 1-4 on the pass side from front to back, and 5-8 on the driver side front to back. Also, make sure you have the correct rotation of the distributor down. I am a Chevy guy, so it took me a little while to get it down myself.
__________________
"A man does what he must - in spite of personal consequences, in spite of obstacles and dangers and pressures - and that is the basis of all human morality."
Second, will it not hurt anything by just taking out the distributor and putting back in facing #1? Will it not hurt the timing more than it already is?
Your timing is all messed up as it is, right? Unless I am misunderstanding, it is not running well, if at all. If that is the case why not fix it, and then set the valves.
__________________
"A man does what he must - in spite of personal consequences, in spite of obstacles and dangers and pressures - and that is the basis of all human morality."
OK I need someone to explain to me the process of adjusting the valves. I've read over the manual several times and I'm not completely clear on it. From what I understand, I have to..
set the piston in the #1 cylinder to TDC....check
put 2 marks on the crankshaft pulley 120 degrees from the zero timing mark.......I know where abouts 120 degrees would be but how do I mark it exactly?
make sure the lifters are compressed (not pumped with oil). It says there is a special tool is available for this procedure............guess I'll have to see if someone around here will have one to rent.
Is that the name of it? "lifter compressor"?
after the plunger is bottomed out, check the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler guage.............
I'm assuming I can get a feeler guage at any auto parts store?
then check the measurements to the value listed in the specs on my hany manual here...
even I can do that.
if the clearance is greater install a longer pushrod, if it's less than install a shorter pushrod..........how do I know how long of a pushrod to get? do they come in a set or something? where's the best place to get them?
then after doing the lifter bleed down and measuring procedures as stated previously.
rotate the crankshaft 1/3 revolution at a time and adjust both intake and exaust valves at each piston in the remaining firing order 5-3-6-2-4...........
so does it matter which vlave i do first (the intake or exaust)?
I understand adjusting them in the firing order.
It's possible to be at TDC with the piston either at the top of the compression stroke, or at the top of the exhaust stroke (one full crankshaft revolution later).
For normal timing & adjustments etc, TDC referred to is on the compression stroke.
If you happen to be at the top of the exhaust stroke, the distributor rotor will NOT be pointing at the correct plug wire.
To determine compression vs exhaust strokes, you can either put your finger over the spark plug hole to feel the compression, as you crank the engine FORWARD (clockwise viewed from the front) by hand & the piston rises; - or check that both ex. & in valves are closed (up) as the piston gets to TDC.
If you haven't taken the distributor out yet, I would just check that you were on the "correct" TDC first.
One additional thing to keep in mind is that the marks on the harmonic balancer may not be in the correct places. That threw me off when I got my engine back together. As it turns out when the harmonic balancer gets old the rubber separating the outer ring from the inner section can allow the marks to slip out of place making timing very difficult. I had to pull the #1 spark plug and manually confirm when the piston was at tdc to set the initial timing. Then I set it by ear after I got it close. One of these days I'll go get a new harmonic balancer.
I took some pictures if anyone needs to see them but you'll have to tell me how to add them to the post first. I can't for the life of me figure out how to add pics.
I can help you with posting pictures in a message. You don't need to have sponsor or premium account membership to do it.
Go to photobucket.com - It's free. Create an account. Once you have an account there, you can upload your pics. The site is pretty easy to use. I'm guessing you can navigate your files since you've uploaded some to the "gallery" so I won't say more about that unless you need it.
After your pics are on photobucket, you're almost there. Have 2 browsers running. Go to this site in one of the browsers. In the second browser, go to photobucket. Just click on the picture you want to show inside a message.
You'll see a bigger version of your picture on photobucket, and if you scroll down a bit, you will see a screen like this;
Click your cursor in the box of text next to where it says
"Direct Link." Photobucket will Copy the text for you.
Now, switch browsers to this site. Do your normal process to post a reply. Put your cursor inside the message on the line where you want the pic to show up.
Then click the icon of the postcard in the menu above where you're typing your message. If you hover your mouse over the icon, it tells what it does. The one you want is "insert image." When you click it, a dialog box will pop up, asking you "Please enter the URL of your image" and the box will already have the text ' http:// ' in it.
Put your cursor in the box, delete the ' http:// ' text, and press Ctrl-V. That will Paste the text into the dialog box. Another way is to right-click - (click the right mouse button) - and choose Paste. Then click the dialog box OK button.
This should result in your picture appearing inside the message. You can check out your results using the Preview Post button at the bottom of the message editing page.
If it does not behave properly, let me know.
Sorry for the long post. I know it's a Ford Truck forum, just wanted to help out so you can share info easier with the guys who are helping fix the truck. Good luck on your repairs.
I've been busy with my own Ford ... the engine and trans are installed ... so I'm back ...
lesseelesseelessee where wuz we ....
dcassidy in black and blue
Oddshot in red
OK I need someone to explain to me the process of adjusting the valves. I've read over the manual several times and I'm not completely clear on it. From what I understand, I have to..
set the piston in the #1 cylinder to TDC....check
As Ken explained in his post ... we have to be careful with the term "Top Dead Center" ... because EVERY CYLINDER HAS 2 of them ...TDC COMPRESSION STROKE ... and TDC EXHAUST STROKE.
What you are looking for is better expressed as "Number ONE cylinder, Top Dead Center, Compression Stroke".
What this means is WHEN IT IS RUNNING ... the engine HAS pulled mixture from the carb through the intake valve ... both the Intake and Exhaust valves are now closed (this means BOTH rocker arms are fully UP!!!) the piston is at the top of its stroke and the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap (plus or minus a couple of degrees) getting ready send spark to the plug and igniting the mixture.
Normally at this point you could remove the Distributor cap ... and just confirm that the rotor is pointing at number one. BUT ... you are NOT sure that you have the spark plugs in the right spot.
And YES ... if you had a little experience (and somebody to help) you could turn the engine with your thumb over the Number One Cylinder spark plug hole as you were turning the engine. You would feel the pushing (compressing) of air out opf the plug hole as the cylinder neared #1 TDC Compression Stroke. But this is tough leaning over a fender ... trying to turn the engine with your thumb in a spark plug hole.
Another way you might find easier ... is to watch the Number 1 cylinder intake and exhaust valves ... while keeping an eye on the timing marks on the crankshaft.
Here's how its done: Line up the crankshaft timing marks with the TDC indicator on the timing cover. Now ... with your wrench on the Crankshaft pully bolt ... turn the engine Back and forth ... just a couple of inches BEYOND TDC, and watch to see if the rocker arms move.
If the rocker arms move up and down ... you are on #1 TDC EXHAUST Stroke ... you MUST turn the engine a full 360 degrees (one full revolution) ... to get to the right spot.
If they do NOT move, you are #1 TDC Compression Stroke and you are ready to start adjusting the valves.
PLEASE NOTE ... ONCE YOU HAVE THE ENGINE ON #1 TDC COMPRESSION STROKE ... your ignition rotor is now pointing at the firing point for the number one cylinder spark plug. Mark this on your distributor cap with a crayon or piece of chalk ... and insert the wire for your number one cylinder in that tower of the cap.
Put 2 marks on the crankshaft pulley 120 degrees from the zero timing mark.......I know where abouts 120 degrees would be but how do I mark it exactly?
Just to help ... if you made a mark every 120 degrees on the face of your crankshaft pulley ... you would roughly describing where the lines intersect the circle of a "Peace Sign".
You will make these marks with a yellow crayon ... or a white piece of chalk ... white or yellow paint ... any thing you can see these positions easily.
Once you've made the marks on the face ... extend them toward the engine ... so you can see them EXACTLY as you can see the factory made TDC mark on the pulley. This will help you more accurately line up the rest of the cylinders to adjust the valves.
make sure the lifters are compressed (not pumped with oil). It says there is a special tool is available for this procedure............guess I'll have to see if someone around here will have one to rent.
Is that the name of it? "lifter compressor"?
SKIP THIS PART ... you have already run this engine ... the lifters are already filled with oil!!! Honest.
after the plunger is bottomed out, check the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler guage.............
I'm assuming I can get a feeler guage at any auto parts store?
then check the measurements to the value listed in the specs on my hany manual here...
even I can do that.
if the clearance is greater install a longer pushrod, if it's less than install a shorter pushrod..........how do I know how long of a pushrod to get? do they come in a set or something? where's the best place to get them?
then after doing the lifter bleed down and measuring procedures as stated previously.
DON'T DO ANYTHING IN THE BLUE UNLESS YOU HAVE AN ENGINE WWwwwaaaaayyyy OLDER THAN 1980 ... and all your pushrods are the same size.
On your engine we aren't really adjusting valve "CLEARANCE" ... we're adjusting valve "LASH". There IS a difference.
Once you have your engine on #1 cylinder TDC Compression stroke ... Back off the rocker arm adjusting nut until there is a little "free play" in the push rod (you can rock the rocker arm and feel the loosness of it kinda taping on the pushrod ... you will be able to spin the push rod it VERY easily with your fingers ...
Then GENTLY tighten the adjusting nut until you JUST BARELY eliminate the "free play" ...
Once you have eliminated all the "free play" ... TIGHTEN the adjusting nut ONE COMPLETE TURN.
It does NOT matter if you adjust the intake or exhaust first ... just remember to do both of them!
Mark the #1 cylinder vlaves with some chalk or a crayon ... so you remember these are DONE!
Then rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE 1/3 revolution and line up the mark you made on the crank pulley with the TDC indicator on the timing cover.
Adjust #5 Cylinder intake and exhaust valves. Mark them so you remember these are Done.
Then rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE 1/3 revolution and line up the mark you made on the crank pulley with the TDC indicator on the timing cover.
Adjust #3 Cylinder intake and exhaust valves. Mark them so you remember these are Done.
And repeat.
Next would be #6 cyl.
Then #2 cyl.
Then #4.
I understand adjusting them in the firing order.
Yes, you are ... this means when you are lined up for number 5 ... you can put THAT wire in the distributor cap.
BTW ... about firing orders ... I've had long time mechanics work for me ... who screwed firing orders ...ALL THE TIME!!!
AS you are adjusting the valves for the various cylinders ... the ignition rotor will "point" to the appropriate cylinder ... When You are set to adjust #1 ... put the #1 wire in the correct spot on the cap ...THEN take a piece of masking tape or duct tape ... wrap it around the wire near the spark plug ... and mark "1" on the flag you just made ...
Do this with all six ... and you'll never cross your wires again.
I guess we've all givin too much love to oddshot, cuz it won't let me give him any either. With all the help he's given me I definitely owe him more than rep. points.
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