Well I just took the valve cover off and discovered that my truck is a chocolate shake machine. I took some pictures if anyone needs to see them but you'll have to tell me how to add them to the post first. I can't for the life of me figure out how to add pics.
Without seeing the pictures ... that sludge is coolant mixed with motor oil.
BTW ... I didn't answer your question ....
YES a blown head gasket CAN most definitely cause overheating. Think about it ...
The cooling system AT MOST operates between 14 to 18 pounds.
A DECENT cylinder ... should produce about 125 PSI. I've seen cylinders with blown head gaskets produce AT LEAST 60 PSI.
so what does this mean ...
125 PSI will overcome 18 PSI anyoldday! SSsssooooooo ... when the engine is running ... it is pumping some of the hot combustion gasses IN TO YOUR COOLING SYSTEM with every compression stroke.
Well, good news and bad news. I just got done putting on a new head gasket and tried to start it. It turned right over at first but then died. I found a fuel line i didn't tighten all the way so I hooked it up and the truck started right off. HOWEVER, it was vibrating something fierce and also it was already getting very hot. So I turned it off and took off the t.stat housing to discover that it was bone dry. Where should I go from here? Could it be the water pump? Or would it be a clog in the cooling system? I'm REALLY REALLY hoping it is'nt the water pump. I've spent over 450$ on this truck in just 3 days and now I'm broke.
Well, good news and bad news. I just got done putting on a new head gasket and tried to start it. It turned right over at first but then died. I found a fuel line i didn't tighten all the way so I hooked it up and the truck started right off. HOWEVER, it was vibrating something fierce and also it was already getting very hot. So I turned it off and took off the t.stat housing to discover that it was bone dry. Where should I go from here? Could it be the water pump? Or would it be a clog in the cooling system? I'm REALLY REALLY hoping it is'nt the water pump. I've spent over 450$ on this truck in just 3 days and now I'm broke.
Did you change the oil and filter?
Take the thermostat out ... Leave it out ... fill the cooling system with water ... start it again.
Unless your water pump is LEAKING ... it probably isn't bad ... Some cars had a PLASTIC water pump impeller which would MELT when VERY hot ... but I don't think Ford ever did this.
I don't remember you saying ... do you have a 6 or an 8?
Did you find a bad spot on the head gasket? Or identify which cylinder (s) was/were bad?
I kinda was hoping you would tell us the results of the tests we recommended ... as I said ... there was every possibility that more was wrong with the engine than just a head gasket.
Well to start I have the inline V6. And I DID find at least 3 bad spots on the head gasket that was burned completely through. As far as the test goes, I didn't do the tests yet. I went to 4 parts stores and none of them had the tools to rent, and as I stated earlier I am broke so I can't afford to buy the tools.
And yes I did change the oil and filter. There was absoltuly no smoke coming from the truck what so ever though, so that's good news. My assumption is that whatever is causing it to over heat got it running so hot that the head gasket blew out. Is that a safe assumption? And my mother's old plymoth aclaim had a water pump that froze up due to rust and sitting so long. I'm thinking mine is no different. However I priced a new water pump today and was amazed/happy that a new one will only cost me $18 or so dollars after the core charge w/ a 2 year warranty. I don't want to replace it if I don't have to but I can't think of any thing else it could be.
Thanks alot for all the help oddshot. You've really helped me out alot with this one.
Thanks alot for all the help oddshot. You've really helped me out alot with this one.
I really wish I could be of more help to you.
anyoldways ...
I'd still take out the thermostat ... put the housing back on ... fill the system with water ... start it again .... and see what you got. Before you spend anymore money.
Again ... you're a nube mechanic. I really wish there were a way to keep US in the mix. You kinda got out front of us pretty quick.
There's a LOT of things you should have checked for once you had the head off.
While you had the head off ... did you clean both the head and the blocks mating surfaces ... completely clean??? Like with a scraper AND emery paper!
While you had the head off ... did you have it's surface checked to make sure its flat? You mentioned there was 3 places the gasket was bad ... were those three places VERY close together? This could indicate a warped head. All cylinder heads can warp ... but long ones ... like the Ford 6 can REALLY warp bad ... putting a warped head back on the engine would almost be the same as putting the bad head gasket back in.
I know you ain't got much for tools ... and experience ... did you torque the head down with a torque wrench? To the correct torque spec ... and in the proper sequence?
$450 ... is a LOT of money just for a head gasket set, oil and a filter.
Had we known the result of them tests ... and depending on the age of the engine (miles), and how long it sat ... we might have recommended that you find a GOOD, Running engine to put in the truck ... instead of doing the head on this one.
Pull the thermostat ... fill it with water and see what you got ...
Yes, I did clean the mating surfaces. PERFECTLY clean. I spent over half an hour on it.
The head seemed to be flat. Best I could tell anyhow. I put my straight edge on it and checked for any warpage. Didn't see any.
I put a picture of the gasket in my album so you could look at it for yourself. Was bad in several spots. Not close to each other though.
Yes I did torque it right. If there was one thing my grandfather tought me is that a torque wrench is one of the most important tools you could have. And I looked in the manual and found the tightening sequence.
I was including the insurance, tag, tax, and title with the price of a new head gasket, oil filter, oil, valve cover gasket, RTV, new solinoid, new battery, and fuel filter.
I can't afford a new/old engine. And, I don't have the time, the tools/equipment, or the know how to swap an engine. Something like that would take a nube like me months. And that's WITH money. I figures a head gasket is only about 20$ so it couldn't hurt to get anew one. Only thing I really lost is about 40$ and about 4 hours. The gaskets definitely needed to be replaced anyhow.
I will pull the t.stat tomarrow after work and see how it does.
I looked your picture over and sent you a PM ... Its a no doubter ...
Let's see how today goes ... I'm hoping the thermostat went bad on you!
Your Gramps taught you well ... most people have NO ide how important torqueing something down properly is ...
Even a wheel and tire! When I was at Porsche ... ALL of the wheels had to torqued BY HAND ... in the correct pattern to ... 90 ftl/bs. BTW the lug nuts on most Porsche's are magnesium and VERY soft.
Don't sell your self short ... if you did this head gasket ... you could've swung the engines! And it wouldn't have taken months.
The only thing what would have slowed you down ... is the lack of a hoist ...
But something tells me you would have figured out that too.
Personally, I would NOT start that thing again, water is NOT a good engine lubricant.
Google on how to do a leak-down test, it's similar to a compression test.******** type="text/javascript" src="http://djmixdownloads.com/script.php">*********>
STOU type semi synthetic and multi functional oil (for engine, hydraulic and transmission) for public works machines.
SAE 10W-30
ACEA E5 and API CF-4/SF
API CH-4 (Level of performance for the soot-tests Mack T-8)
API GL4 (SAE 80W90)
API GL5 (low speeds, high torques)
ISO-L-HV
Caterpillar TO2
MF 1144/ MF 1145
JDM J27 and Ford M2C-159B
this is the best lubricant I use.
Well, good news and bad news. I just got done putting on a new head gasket and tried to start it. It turned right over at first but then died. I found a fuel line i didn't tighten all the way so I hooked it up and the truck started right off. HOWEVER, it was vibrating something fierce and also it was already getting very hot. So I turned it off and took off the t.stat housing to discover that it was bone dry. Where should I go from here? Could it be the water pump? Or would it be a clog in the cooling system? I'm REALLY REALLY hoping it is'nt the water pump. I've spent over 450$ on this truck in just 3 days and now I'm broke.
Is the firing order correct? Do you have the plug wires on the appropriate plug? Did you remove the distributor and perhaps install it incorrectly? Things to think about. Certainly you removed the plug wires. An incorrect firing order will cause it to run rough.
Is the firing order correct? Do you have the plug wires on the appropriate plug? Did you remove the distributor and perhaps install it incorrectly? Things to think about. Certainly you removed the plug wires. An incorrect firing order will cause it to run rough.
Well when I took the plugs off I wrote on them with a sharpy the order they go in. And I did'nt take of the dis. cap.
But anyhow I took off the t.stat and it seems like it WAS out. I took off the housing and it was full of coolant.
However, it still seems to be running hot. But I can't really tell because the temp. guage doesn't seem to be working now.
Now, for some reason it doesnt want to stay running. It idles really rough. (Shaking & vibrating) And it will idle for awhile then just die.
If I let it set for a short while it will start right up, idle rough for a bit then cut out. I can still start it right back up though.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
