I done several versions of both...I would go with the triangulated, it will give you the best ride and full range of motion when you want to lay ALL the way down..with no side to side problems..I'm doing a cantilever 4 on my 55...
I done several versions of both...I would go with the triangulated, it will give you the best ride and full range of motion when you want to lay ALL the way down..with no side to side problems..I'm doing a cantilever 4 on my 55...
I already have the 4 bar in so im kinda stuck with that, still have time to change the panhard though. Thats my reason for looking into this. It seems the panhard is not what im looking for since i would have the range of motion in the rear. I guess the panhard would be good if i was going with coilover shockes.
Is there a reason you are going cantilever? What stage are you at now, any pics? Thanks!!!
rt..Have you put any pics of your bars up yet??..I'm just doing a canti.for the looks,my beds gonna be open so why not..plus you can get insane lift..I know you said you had yours in but try an look at movin the top bars..maybe cut some tabs to weld on the rearend..I jss think panhards suck..let me know if i can help..post some pics
so the watts kit would work with the 4 bar and airbags? I do not plan on side to side action just up and down front and back.
Axracer, What is a track bar and how does that work?
Trackbar is just what the NASCR guys call a panhard bar. By having the height of the mount on each end of the bar adjustable, they can adjust the handling of their racer. That's usually what they are doing when they stick a long wrench thru a hole in the rear window and give it a crank during pit stops. The panhard bar should be mounted to the far opposite end of the rear end and to the frame. You want it to be as long as possible and the pivots to be as level with each as possible across the chassis with it at ride height to get the least amount of side motion.
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Passionate about autocross racing!
2003 GSL, 2005 HSL National Champion
1956 F100 Panel support/tow vehicle
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
2002 Celica GT 2003 GSL National Champion retired to daily driving duties
Man thats lookn GOOD nice work..One thing you could do..keep the bars where they are and triangulate two smaller ones from each side of the diff to the frame /^\ mount them on the front side of the axle, that way they don't roll your pinion.
Cory, if i was to add the triangulated bars to the front of the axle it would not roll my pinion angle? It looks like i will have say 8" travel of my axle. so i want the new bars to be level at ride height? Where can i get such bars?
You already have them. Take the top bars you have now and build the brackets you would need to attach them to the frame and differential. You wouldn't be able to just add the triangulated bars because they would cause the suspension to bind. The only part not used on your existing setup would be the front top mount points.
I used the triangulated 4-bar kit from Ride Tech (formerly Air Ride Technologies) and had to fabricate the drivers side brackets on the differential (see pics in my gallery) because of my asymmetrical differential. I also had to shorten the passengers side brackets on the differential to make them work. If I had known then what I know now, (namely how easy it was to build the brackets out of 3/16 plate steel) I would have used DOM steel rods, bought the poly bushed ends to weld on and built my own brackets. I went with a kit because I had no template and no experience and I thought it would be more difficult to do.
From what I have seen of your 'C' notch, you have the fabricating skills. You can take the existing top rods and build the mount points for the frame and diff rather easily. You can even mount the airbags inside the frame on top of the axle tubes and use the existing mount point outside the frame above the axle tubes (after moving the outboard one in to match the shock eye width) to mount your shock absorbers.
I would also take the time to box in the rear of the frame in front an back of the 'C' notch.
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Central Oklahoma Chapter - No Child Deserves to Live in Fear.
1956 F-100 289, C-4.
1987 H-D FXST-C. Too many mods to list.
1999 M-B ML-430. Bone Stock.
2006 H-D FLHXI, 95" stage 2.
RT..You will have to make that decision...if two top bars are added along the same plane as the others, but trigulated I dont see a binding issue.."I didnt make that to clear last time".sorry..you can order bars and himes from jss about anywhere online.Or cut yours off and move'm
There is some fairly precise suspension geometry that needs to be followed in setting up a triangulated 3 or 4 bar setup so it doesn't bind or jack the rear in a turn. Hang on, I need to go back to my race car engineering texts and find out how to figure it out. I'll try to get to it tomorrow.
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!
2003 GSL, 2005 HSL National Champion
1956 F100 Panel support/tow vehicle
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
2002 Celica GT 2003 GSL National Champion retired to daily driving duties
Cory, if i was to add the triangulated bars to the front of the axle it would not roll my pinion angle? It looks like i will have say 8" travel of my axle. so i want the new bars to be level at ride height? Where can i get such bars?
my son and I just made our triangulated 4-bar link bars.. still have to mount them yet. we used .250 wall DOM tubing, and some stainless threaded rod & nuts. .250 cause it matched the rubber bushing from an S-10.
and yes, typically, level at normal position. ride height is usually normal..
pics, no special tools.. all cuts done by hand.
nuts & rod, pre-cut
getting square. we used the level to insure square cuts, and positions for welds.
cutting the rod, constraining the heat
the 4 adjustable ends after tig welding
one rod end before welding in the adjusting thread nut. we hand cut the bar end to wrap the bushing end.. then made a paper template to transfer that to the other three rods.. the paper template was wrap a piece of paper around the tube, tape so its tight.. mark the existing cut on the paper (now a little tube itself), remove, cut on the lines, then slide this paper tube on the next rod body.. mark, cut and grind.
rod end after welding in the nut and installing the bushings. we ground off the points of the nut to make it round to go inside the tube, see pic above
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