$900 radiator, $1100 front end
#1
$900 radiator, $1100 front end
Looks like whoever had my 06 4x4 EB Expy for the first 30k miles rode it hard. Anything else you can think of I should be looking at while I am getting these repairs done. A buddy mine is going to take a look at it, just not sure if I should have him look at some other things while the front end is coming out. Looks like that family vacation to NC this weekend just got cancelled. I was going to go and try and turn wrenches with him - but I got to work to pay for the repairs. Should I put a separate tranny cooler in while it is apart (no tow package) and then I think just adding the 7-pin makes it have the tow package. I will rarely tow anything over 5000lbs and we are all flat here in FL, but don't want to do this again in 30k. Also should I put efans in while its apart. Lots of questions - but kick in on any of them. Hey at least I got my stereo in - guess I should have been rolling around underneath checking fluids instead of pulling the dash off. Thanks, Mike
#2
#4
My buddy got a chance to make a few calls and he the radiator is about $185 new so 475 installed. Ford dealership said all fo the fluid drained out of the front end (again no ground leaks anywhere in my driveway) so my buddy said he will put it on the lift tomorrow and look around. They told me radiator is shot because the tranny lines in the radiator can not be repaired and they are leaking everywhere (once again, not one spot on my driveway and nothing indicating this). What sux (besides the whole situation) I put it in the shop to have them see if they can figure out the memory seat problem (possessed, and can not be bypassed) and there was a knock every now and then in the front right. This is the same dealer I had look at the vehicle after I bought it also. Guess I'm glad they found the leak, certainly did not want to blow the tranny on the interstate with wife and daughter in the car in the middle of the night. We'll see what my buddy finds tomorrow. Even if its a couple grand, although unexpected, i paid almost nothing for this thing and it rides great. Oh and Ford said the front end ring and pinion had to be replaced, I did not see the formal estimate yet.
#5
I'd find another dealer for a second opinion. Also, here's a couple things to check. How did they determine that you have a leak? I'd ask for some sort of verification. And if it really only has 30K miles on it, why isn't Ford fixing it? Seems to me it's only 2009, which should fall in a 3year/36K warranty period.
- pop the radiator cap (after the system has cooled down!) and using a flashlight, take a look inside. If you see red stuff on top, yeah, you've got a leak. It might even be in the overflow bottle. If the lines inside the radiator are really shot, it will leak internally and bubble up to the top of the radiator (the whole oil/water thing) I find it very hard to believe that a radiator crapped out after 30K miles though.
- the last time I checked, there is nothing connecting the front diff to the radiator, so why in the hell do they think you need a new R&P? (BTW, that's an expensive job, about $200 in parts, and about 4 hours minumum for labor to set correctly.) Unless it's whining or clunking really badly, I'd check & change the fluid and be done with it.
- The knocking is probably a loose ball joint
have you had the trans fluid changed recently? Almost wondering if they did a flush & fill and didn't tighten the lines correctly, and it's leaking through the pressure fittings.
If worse comes to worse, I'd ask the dealer to do a pressure test WHILE you are there to verify that the radiator is leaking.
- pop the radiator cap (after the system has cooled down!) and using a flashlight, take a look inside. If you see red stuff on top, yeah, you've got a leak. It might even be in the overflow bottle. If the lines inside the radiator are really shot, it will leak internally and bubble up to the top of the radiator (the whole oil/water thing) I find it very hard to believe that a radiator crapped out after 30K miles though.
- the last time I checked, there is nothing connecting the front diff to the radiator, so why in the hell do they think you need a new R&P? (BTW, that's an expensive job, about $200 in parts, and about 4 hours minumum for labor to set correctly.) Unless it's whining or clunking really badly, I'd check & change the fluid and be done with it.
- The knocking is probably a loose ball joint
have you had the trans fluid changed recently? Almost wondering if they did a flush & fill and didn't tighten the lines correctly, and it's leaking through the pressure fittings.
If worse comes to worse, I'd ask the dealer to do a pressure test WHILE you are there to verify that the radiator is leaking.
#6
update-my buddy confirmed and replaced the radiator today. He will get it on a lift tomorrow to look underneath about the front end. bnovak - less than 36k (like 34k now) but built 5/18/2005 warranty start 6/2/2005 according to Oasis. Saw that it was a rental originally and small accident in 11/6/2005 then off to auction in Jacksonville. Still not unhappy with what I paid. I only tried the 4x4 when i got it in grass to make sure it worked. has not been engaged since. dealer ran it in 4x4 because I said there was a knock up in the front. They told me they were running in 4x4 and could not duplicate, I told them it was noticeable in 2wd. A couple hours later they called me back and said a seal was bad and all of the diff fluid had leaked out and r&p were bad now. (yes they ran it in 4wd, but to be honest I would have done it not knowing there was an issue anyway so i guess I can't fault them and certainly would never be able to hold them accountable). Hopefully my buddy will have more optimistic news for me tomorrow. All reports I have show the vehicle clean and I will still be ahead even if this cost a couple grand - just sux because such low mileage. Still not disappointed in Ford - very dissatisfied with the two ford service departments i have dealt with so far Walker Ford and now Autoway Ford - not bashing (not real sure of the rules) just not satisfied with dealer work or news they give me thus far. Walker was my 03 supercrew I bought new and never got some issues resolved - never been back. Autoway is this time, I will speak with the service dept manager when this is all fixed based on outcome - but expect no accountability or explanation from them.
#7
just realized how I rambled - radiator is almost replaced and front end hopefully getting looked at tomorrow. A mechanic friend of mine has it right now. It was an early 06 (6/2/05 warranty start date) so out of warranty. Not sure how much more work I will have the dealerships do - not real comfortable with two of the local ones i have dealt with.
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#8
Well, if this is really the case, I'd say you have the worst pinion seal that ford has ever installed. Before anyone does anything with it, I'd look around the pinion (where the driveshaft enters the diff) for signs of leakage. It also doesn't make sense that the pinion seal could leak enough fluid to ruin the R&P since it's halfway up the diff. This is really fishy to me. I've NEVER heard of a diff throwing a R&P without having noticeable signs of oil leaking, let alone throwing 2 quarts out of the pinion seal without the owner noticing. I'd go to the dealer, tell them to pull the plug, and stick your finger in there. I'd call bull***** on the dealer.....
you can also check the front diff by putting the rig on a chassis lift, disconnecting the front shaft, and spinning the pinion. If it binds, yeah, the gears are shot. Again though, there's no way that a pinion seal could possibly leak enough in a 24 to 48 hour period, or even driving, to blow gears apart. And....they'd howl like a dying dog, not clunk if they ran dry.
My guess is that the dealer ran it in 4 low on dry pavement and cracked the gear if it really is bad. Ask them if it's drive-able. Obviously it was when you drove in, and if it isn't now, it's on them to fix it.
'course, another option if you NEVER plan on using 4wd is to just pull the gears and the driveshaft. Heck, you might even get an MPG or two
you can also check the front diff by putting the rig on a chassis lift, disconnecting the front shaft, and spinning the pinion. If it binds, yeah, the gears are shot. Again though, there's no way that a pinion seal could possibly leak enough in a 24 to 48 hour period, or even driving, to blow gears apart. And....they'd howl like a dying dog, not clunk if they ran dry.
My guess is that the dealer ran it in 4 low on dry pavement and cracked the gear if it really is bad. Ask them if it's drive-able. Obviously it was when you drove in, and if it isn't now, it's on them to fix it.
'course, another option if you NEVER plan on using 4wd is to just pull the gears and the driveshaft. Heck, you might even get an MPG or two
#9
Oh, and if your mechanic buddy is up for the fix, I'd recommend looking for a junkyard IFS8.8 out of an F150 or another Expedition and have him help you swap it in rather than paying the dealer for new gears. Setting gears will probably cost you more in labor than just swapping the case. JUST MAKE SURE THE RATIOS MATCH!
There was an IFS on craigslist here for $150 a week or so ago. I don't think you can either buy an R&P set for that cheap, and you don't have to spend hours setting it up.
-BN
There was an IFS on craigslist here for $150 a week or so ago. I don't think you can either buy an R&P set for that cheap, and you don't have to spend hours setting it up.
-BN
#10
yeah - gonna see what he says tomorrow and that was my next move to look for a whole diff used. I blew a rearend in my ranger years back and ended up just swapping it out (one of the easiest things I've ever done, but had access to a lift and lots of time then). I am pretty familiar with how it should sound and it certainly did not make any of those sounds (again I never ran it in 4x4). I have not even been by to look at it myslef yet as I have been swamped but look forward to trying to swing by his shop tomorrow. unfortunately the dealer is out of the equation now since I had the truck taken to someone elses shop.
#11
Can't say I would ever consider buying an ex rental at an auction. Sounds like you knew you might be getting a torn up one though. Unfortunately, you did. I hope this is a sign of things to come with this truck. The damage you report though is severely excessive for the miles on the truck. I would fix it, sell it cheap, and buy one that had proper care from an owner that made payments on it.
#12
Can't say I would ever consider buying an ex rental at an auction. Sounds like you knew you might be getting a torn up one though. Unfortunately, you did. I hope this is a sign of things to come with this truck. The damage you report though is severely excessive for the miles on the truck. I would fix it, sell it cheap, and buy one that had proper care from an owner that made payments on it.
It's a gamble we all take when buying a used car. I can tell you that I worked at an Auto Parts store, and I FREQUENTLY reminded people (owners of their vehicles) that they NEED to change oil filter with an oil change. Some customers actually drove new vehicles 20k miles before an oil change. My brother-in-law is like that now. He adds oil to his engines, rarely changes them. These are new vehicles.
If you can find someone selling a "one-owner" vehicle with Maintenance Records from the Dealership, you have found gold!
#13
Thanks for the tutorial. None of that is news to me, I have bought and sold over 30 personal vehicles and my father was manager at several dealerships over a 20+ year time period. I have been to lots of auctions. Personally I wouldn't ever buy a car there, it is a dumping ground plain and simple.
It took some time, and some searching, and a road trip, but I found a 1 owner with service records, in excellent shape, and it was cheap. 99 Expy, 115k, $5200. They are out there, they are worth looking for. Bargains at auctions are rarely cheap in the end. The OP is finding that out. My gut feeling is, he is in for a tough ride with a vehicle that was clearly neglected.
You take a chance with any vehicle, new or used. I bought a new, $123k Mercedes and didn't even make it home without having to make a dealer stop for repairs. Buying from an auction though may be the highest form of vehicular russian roulette. It simply isn't a gamble I would take. Best of luck to those that choose to however.
It took some time, and some searching, and a road trip, but I found a 1 owner with service records, in excellent shape, and it was cheap. 99 Expy, 115k, $5200. They are out there, they are worth looking for. Bargains at auctions are rarely cheap in the end. The OP is finding that out. My gut feeling is, he is in for a tough ride with a vehicle that was clearly neglected.
You take a chance with any vehicle, new or used. I bought a new, $123k Mercedes and didn't even make it home without having to make a dealer stop for repairs. Buying from an auction though may be the highest form of vehicular russian roulette. It simply isn't a gamble I would take. Best of luck to those that choose to however.
#14
Understand what you guys are saying but it was originally a rental (avis).auctioned in nov 2006. Regardless it six, I'll pay to fix it, and hope for no more issues. Yes carfaxand oasis were both clean and am stil not unhappy with the expy.we'll see how unhappy I am when I hear back from my buddy
#15
I have run into several issues with my 2001 XLT with the 4.6 (2WD). Front brakes were bad, shocks are gone, several trim issues, and now the rear wiper motor and CD changer have quit. Like mtondreo said, I got it cheap enough that I am still money ahead by fixing it. AND I don't have any payments...