Usually about $175-$200. Having lighter than stock components is usually less expensive because they drill the counterweights to acheive the balance. Adding metal gets expensive in a hurry.
It's not about gaining HP, without the proper balance the motor would shake so bad it would jump out of the vehicle. An imbalance reaction that severe can be from an imbalance of weight equal to a quarter.
A stock crank has only one hole per rod journal for oiling. Crossdrilling is adding another hole at a 90* angle to the exsisting one. It helps insure oil flow and constant oil pressure to the rod bearings.
The internet bill wasn't paid so i could not get on but its back on now so its all good. I have been looking at pistons rings but they all look about the same to me. does it just depend on brands you prefer.
I didn't see anything special about the rings for those pistons. They are standard 5/64, 5/64 3/16 rings. Personally I like the E251K Moly rings like I sent you a link for a while back. I don't know anything about Keith Black rings, you might want to check with Summit and verify that they will interchange just to be sure. You could run any ring you want from stock cast on up because you're not running that high of CR and no boost or juice.
Better compression, more vac, less blowby, it's more of a question of why not than why in the first place.
That's easy- $105 vs. $20. $40 for Moly's. Last time I checked, there was a budget on this engine- but it seems to be growing.
Compression and blowby shouldn't be a problem if the machine shop work is done correctly. Usually parts that cost 2 1/2 to 5 times more are better. I have found that when the money runs out before the engine is finished, they usually don't run at all. The parts wind up at swap meets and Ebay.
I'm not saying it's going to happen here, but there are a lot of costs involved in a build and the kid has a long way to go.
With some of the choices he's making he could have went with a stroker.
OK. Let's back up a second. I told you I didn't know anything about KB piston rings and frankly I don't know all that much about KB pistons.
I remember someone talking about hypers being brittle and breaking the top ring land. This may be due to using KB pistons and the wrong rings.
If you remember, I said you should get some Tech advice to make sure there wasn't a hidden difference in the rings.
I've been doing some research and info on the KB rings is hard to find. The main concern I have come up with is the top ring clearance. I found this info on KB's site:United Engine and Machine Co..
Unless you can cross reference by individual ring gaps, you might be asking for trouble going outside of KB rings. I suppose it's possible to file the top ring of a different set, but it's not something I've tried or heard of with non file to fit rings.
So in this case, the safest course of action may be to just get these: Keith Black/KB Pistons 4000AM8-030 - Keith Black/KB Pistons Pistons & Piston Rings - Overview - SummitRacing.com. No telling what they are, probably overpriced cast rings. Sorry, not a fan of KB stuff and this isn't helping me become one.
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