my 2001 f350 is going to cost me close to $3000 for front and rear end repair and i have the option to trade it for a 2006 f250 4X4 with a 6.0 with the trade difference of about $11,500. my 01 7.3 only has 143K miles on it and the 06 6.0 has 41K on it. Thanks Sam

 

dont listen to anyone else. i sold my blazer that had 16 in lift for 2000 bucks. the lifted truck only cost 10k to build thanks to the wife. listen to your gut and you are the only one that can decide on your financial situation and how you think how bad you want your truck

 

Describe said repairs to front and rear end? $3K for parts? $3K for upgrades? whats got to be done?

 

What the big man said...

 

well, an 2006 was one of the better years for the 6.0. why does the other guy want your truck if it needs 10k dumped in it? seems to me there would be something really wrong with that truck if he is willing to trade?

 

the repair estimate was including labor and parts by the way this truck has been maintained to the extreme. it needs ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link or trak link bushings (cant remember what it was called) steering gear case is cracked, wheel bearings ETC. rear end they said they could replace the seals and bearings and that it might fix the popping and shuddering it has when you take off. needs 2 u-joints. and i just had the tranny upgraded and rebuilt, more or less the whole driveline components. and the guy that looked at has been a family mechanic for god knows how long and i have to trust him if he says it needs it, he hasnt screwed me yet. i really dont want another 6.0 i survived that 03 for 210K until it got totaled (company truck) it was a POS. my 96 7.3 has 452K on it and has been dead reliable.

 

the later 6.0s i actually liked. i drove my girlfriends truck till we broke up. it was a really nice truck. but 10k seems a lot for what u described. maybe that cuz i fix my own stuff so i dont know what they charge.

 

the repair bill was 3K the trade was 11,500

 

sounds kinda like you know the answer - other thing to consider is that with the 6.0 you will at some point need to pull the head and replace the torque-flex bolts - it ain't cheap.

 

my bad man. i read the next post down and my mind didnt register the right numbers. ( its 2 am here).

 

Although I COULD have afforded a newer truck, I chose the one in my signature because it had the 7.3, all the other features I wanted, AND cost a whole bunch less than most alternatives. So MY logic would definitely vote for the '01. You already know exactly what you'll have once the repairs are done, whereas you're probably taking some chance on the quality of the '06.
Good luck!

 

i know the 7.3 is a dead reliable diesel and i guess i should keep it. i got it new with 2 miles on it when i was 17 thaught i was cool(its a lariat with a flatbed) and it has always been a good truck until the last 2 months. heck maybe ill get the problems worked out of it and it will run forever.

 

Dude, what did you hit?
anyhoo, all this can be done in the driveway and you can save the labor. Ball joints , end links, and draglink are all fairly easy replacements. The shudder in the rear could definatly be casued by the bad u joints, or it might be as simple as your slip joint needs greasing.

I say keep the 7.3

 

Kbb ZIP code 75650
F350 Fair 13,225
F250 Good 21,105
Diff=7880
<o></o>
Now I assumed 4WD for the F350 too. I would bargain for a better deal if you wanted the 06.

 

I'm with Brandon on DIY. I did my balljoints, tie-rods, & drag link in my driveway. $700-ish in parts, and because I was slow, no air tools, and working 100% solo, 2 days down. I don't know the cost of u-joints, but that's probably a 2hr job (or so) depending on condition, etc.

As for the shuddering, etc. from the rear end, have you noticed any leaks around the cover? At 143k you're due for a fluid change, which is SUPER easy. Plus, it's a perfect time to throw on the '08 diff cover. 4 quarts of Royal Purple 75W140 synthetic diff oil will set you back $70-ish, but it has the additive for limited slip already, so just fill-n-go!

Here's my (basic) math:

Ball joints (with needed seals, etc.) $350 shipped

Tie rods, etc. - $400 (ROCKAUTO.COM is where I got mine)

U-Joints - $100 (local parts store)

'08 Diff cover w/bolts - $100

RP diff fluid - $100 (change procedure HERE)

You're out $1100-ish and 2 days worth of work. This still may not fix your rear end issue, but for the $2000 savings.... you make the call.