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AC needs R&R: What parts to use???

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Old 09-16-2009, 11:45 AM
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Lightbulb AC needs R&R: What parts to use???

Hi folks
I've pretty well rebuilt my mid-2001 Ranger XLT Stretch 2.3L - new starter, new battery, new fan clutch, new valve cover gasket, new tranny seals, new TPS, new plugs & wires, new idler/pulley, new belts. Now its time for the A/C.

I see that Motorcraft is getting some criticism these days re Parts quality so I don't want to buy the wrong parts for this job, or pay too much for that matter.
Can you give me some advice???

thx
Z
 
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Old 09-16-2009, 03:39 PM
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Well first you need to find out what really needs to be replaced. If the system has been opened and left that way for a while then you will need a accumulator/ drier for sure. probably put in a new orfice tube (they are only $5.00) Replace all the Orings (the parts stores sell oring kits by make and model). Then decide if you need any major parts like compressor, evaporator, condenser, hoses. As for parts quality thats a crap shoot I have had good luck with O'reilly parts that doesn't mean you can't get a bad compressor from them but I haven't so far. But if you buy a compressor from them they will require the orfice tube and Acumulator/drier in order for the warranty to be any good. I am not to high on Autozone parts but that is my opinion. And believe it or not I have had good luck with bone yard compressors. I also believe that half the reason for short lived air conditoner repairs is poor installation. First get the manufactures recommended compressor oil (and there are several out there now) Lubricate all orings and seals when installing them, add the correct quanity of oil when replacing the major parts. And pull a deep vaccum for a minium of 60 mins longer if system has been open for awhile. The biggest enemy of the r134a systems is mositure the 134a and the oils they use to lubricate with are hydroscopic and the combination of water with refrigerant and oil will produce corrosion especially in the evaporators that will cause them to leak in as little as 6 mos if the system was not evacuated properly. I usually put a small amount of refrigerant in and then leak test before doing a complete fill so as not to have recapture a lot of refrigerant if some thing is not right. Then charge the correct amount of refrigerant. I have had pretty good luck with my Air conditioner work but not perfect. If they stay charged up more than three days they are usually good to go.
 
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Old 09-16-2009, 04:54 PM
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Thanks WT... !
The story is that my Fan Clutch went out but I never knew it... the 2.3 runs cool enough that the temp never really went up, at least visible via the gauge, so first clue I had was hearing the AC/Compressor cycling while sitting idle at lights etc. So I thought maybe it had slow leak [115K miles on the truck]... i had never had an issue with it before. So the guys that inspected it put the dye in and I took it back after few weeks and they gave me the story. Basically said what you said... replace the orifice, dryer, etc... the whole nine yards. They actually said they wanted to use O'Reilly or Azone for the parts. If it were GM I'd want the OEM compressor I think, but I was not so sure about Motorcraft parts. I know if we buy from NAPA they won't warranty the stuff unless its OEM new Compressor, and all the required extras, like you said.
 
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Old 09-16-2009, 09:03 PM
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If the system hasn't been apart and you have had no problems I would just charge it and see what it does. The dye shouldn't bother it. if it has some leaks usually orings replace them and pull a good vacuum for about 45-60 mins and recharge. Sounds like the guys are trying to get into your pocket.
 
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:34 AM
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no, its a longer story... just didn't want to be too windy.
Took it to a dealer, sorta by accident, as I drove it in to p/u my wife's malibu. left the truck. so I thought... as long as its sitting there I'd get them to put some refrigerant in. the service writer said 'well check it out for you". THEY tried to get in my pocket - called back with horror tale etc and the bill would be 1300 or more. I said no. They left me with ZERO pressure... bled down the system and handed me the key. so I took it to a small shop I trust and asked them to charge it and put dye in. ok. drove it for almost a month and it cools, but not well... air temp is probably high 60's at the vent. Took it back to same for a 'dye check'. said its leaking around the compressor seals and somewhere else... i forget which part, and said the head pressure in the compressor is erratic. Showed me a quote for about 750, total, using parts from O'Reilly if that's my pick.

apparently, as I had indicated, it started with having no fan at idle. nothing to cool the compressor etc, and I have no idea how long that fan clutch had been out.

Whatever that dealer did probably compromised the system. I still plan to write the boss over there and tell them why I will not be back to their shop. there was no good reason to bleed the system down
 
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:25 PM
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actually if you can bleed the system down with a set of gauges and a good vacuum pump you should be able to tell if there is a leak there if you stop the pump and lose no vacuum. I just rebuilt the A/C on my 88 Town Car after having a compressor seize up. I used an O'Reilley's reman compressor since nobody offers a new one anymore and they were $90 cheaper than autozone. Bought a new orifice tube, accumulator, flush, refrigerant, oil, o rings, and a/c disconnect tools and had the whole job done in about 6 hours give or take since the old orifice tube was rather troublesome to remove. I think I had about $400 wrapped up in it give or take a few $$$s since I had to replace the belt that drives the compressor and smog pump and convert the system to r134a. I was luck enough to have a friend with the gauges and vacuum pump.
 
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:16 AM
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Having a failed fan clutch should not affect the compressor. It has a HPCO switch that will cut out the clutch when the pressure gets too high, which is what would happen with a failed fan clutch. The compressor *should* not have to work too hard.
You need to get a knowledgable person to evacuate it, charge to the proper level and get some pressure readings. You should know the pressure the compressor can develop before condemning it. 'Erratic pressure' is not very descriptive. What is the high pressure and what is the low when filled with the proper charge. There is a table of values at specific ambient temperatures that would tell you if the pressure is correct.
If it hasn't been opened, and is only 8 years old, you can do a compressor swap if that is the leaking part, and not bother with the rest.
There are several shops that sell parts on the web if you are not averse to buying sight unseen. I would avoid 'rebuilds' by names you don't know. Lots are just steam cleaned and silver painted... Murray, everco, ... I don't now all the off brands. A bullet proof warrranty is your vote of confidence from the manufacturer. They don't have to do the labor, just give you another compressor, and it doesn't pay to have to do the job twice.
I vote + on AC/Delco, Motorcraft, NAPA, .. .. no other names come to mind. If the 'zone, Advance, pep boys, shucks, kragen, O'reilly, etc have units with a good warranty, they could be OK, too. A good warranty is NOT 90 days...

tom
 

Last edited by tomw; 09-18-2009 at 09:30 AM. Reason: added...
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:54 AM
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Tom or L2, if you have any links to 'good' parts, that perhaps hhave the fiche so I can look up the exact, i'd be so grateful.
thx for the advice
 
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:01 AM
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Old 09-18-2009, 03:44 PM
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tom
i'm not seeing any OEM parts at these. they'll Reference OEM parts, but the part they are selling is unidentified. I've seen that trick many, many times.

anyone know of a good seller that sells real OEM parts?

z

 
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Old 09-18-2009, 03:51 PM
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Old 09-18-2009, 04:44 PM
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zapp, I don't know what you mean. I have dealt with AAPAK, got a Ranger setup from Warren. I also got parts from the acsource place.
What is it that you want? If these guys, both in AZ, sell you something, it will be right.
If you want the original, go to one of the sponsor parts houses...
tom
 
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:20 PM
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Sorry, Tom, I think i misunderstood your first reply. I thought you were commenting against O'Reilly et al. in favor of OEM. I wouldn't know the diff... I been fortunate on the other vehicles to not buy many parts [including my three motorcycles ]. So I was looking for OEM delco or motorcraft and noticed that the sites reference the OEM part numbers, but what they are selling is an 'equivalent', ... i.e. O'Reilly, et al. part.
Going back to the beginning, there seem to be legitimate disagreements amongst good Ford owners as to whether Motorcraft NEW parts are always/only the best parts to use for such major surgery. I'm asking the question. I don't claim to know what is the answer.
 
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:43 AM
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If the price difference is not large, OEM is a good bet. However, some of the original compressors that Ford used had their weak points.
If the AZ guys sell a Seltec that bolts in, I'd go with that. The price will be about the best you can get, and the quality is there. These guys have been in the business for quite a while, and you don't do that by peddling junk.
The Everco, Murray, 4 seasons, and who knows whatever name they put on them re-mans are cheaper, can't argue that. But, but ... but I would check out any that I got before investing the time and material to install it. I honestly am just repeating the opinion of a lot of AC guys who used to post on aircondition.com forum. I used to read a lot of postings there, and no one ever said a good thing about the brands referenced. You mileage may vary...
tom
 
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:53 AM
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OK. got it.
I'll buzz them up and make sure its seltec

Originally Posted by tomw
If the price difference is not large, OEM is a good bet. However, some of the original compressors that Ford used had their weak points.
If the AZ guys sell a Seltec that bolts in, I'd go with that. The price will be about the best you can get, and the quality is there. These guys have been in the business for quite a while, and you don't do that by peddling junk.
The Everco, Murray, 4 seasons, and who knows whatever name they put on them re-mans are cheaper, can't argue that. But, but ... but I would check out any that I got before investing the time and material to install it. I honestly am just repeating the opinion of a lot of AC guys who used to post on aircondition.com forum. I used to read a lot of postings there, and no one ever said a good thing about the brands referenced. You mileage may vary...
tom
 
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