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Old 11-21-2014, 07:46 PM
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  #61  
Old 01-14-2013, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbsupercrew View Post
Temple, these engine really like the motorcraft plugs and the right gap, know the risk of cheap COPS as well, some last some don't. Just saying
It's my understanding that Autolite makes the plugs for Motorcraft so both brands should be fine.
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  #62  
Old 01-14-2013, 07:08 PM
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Autolite might make the plugs, but they are not IDENTICAL in spec. Motorcraft is the prefered brand.
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  #63  
Old 01-15-2013, 06:10 AM
christophertemple christophertemple is offline
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Regarding Plugs:

I am just putting the same plugs back in the truck that I pulled out with 132k miles. Are you saying that the AutoLite's I bought today are different and of less quality than the ones Ford put in the truck new?

Cheap COP: I am hoping these lifetime warranty COP's are inexpensive not cheap. I've had the top of the line at Autozone and oReillys fail me in the past and they are so damn easy to change out I am going to carry a few in the back of the truck in case I need to change them on a road trip.
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  #64  
Old 01-15-2013, 06:12 AM
christophertemple christophertemple is offline
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I have a 03 5.4 F150 SCrew

The intake was leaking on the passenger side (water outlet tube meets plastic).

Putting in the Dorman replacement and noticed that the front cylinder drivers side (#5) had a decent amount of coolant in it.. None of the others did. I've drained the coolant already and was wondering should I just put this back together and see?

The water outlet crossing has a hole right next to this cylinder and I can't see any cracks and not sure if the gaskets were leaking under it.

Seems like if the head gasket was blown I would see it in more cylinders? It never smoked or run bad before I got this leak... Drove it maybe 10 miles with it leaking out onto Cyl#1. Ran fine, never missed.

I just don't want to put this back together if the head gasket is blown but I don't know what to do.

Help!
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  #65  
Old 01-19-2013, 08:51 PM
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The head gasket was fine. However one thing I would like to remind anyone doing this repair is to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for a few hours.

I am retarded and did not do this and my computer has been freaking out throwing p1000 and p0171 plus other stuff.

I think after 9 years it had to much adaptation programmed in. Its all fresh now with new poc injectors plugs
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  #66  
Old 03-25-2013, 03:03 PM
dmhuff92127 dmhuff92127 is offline
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@christophertemple. Could you please post those pics of your procedure? I just got the doorman and some plugs and am debating on whether to tackle this one myself or not. Got a quote from a moderately trustworthy mechanic who will do the job (using my parts) for $600. This includes a long overdue radiator flush and pressure testing for head gasket just in case. hmm decisions decisions. Thanks.
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  #67  
Old 03-25-2013, 03:35 PM
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Procedure

I wish I had more detailed pictures pointing out everything exactly that needs to be done but I don't. After having to take this off multiple times because of issues I had, I could remove eveyrthing in less than 40 mins but that is from learning where everything is.

It's not that bad but the #1 saving grace is to label and mark every connector and more importantly, Vacuum hoses. I ended up replacing almost every vacuum hose because of the condition.

Couple of things I can share.

* Order all new Coil Packs off eBay - I got mine for like 50$ for all

* Make sure the rear plastic intake nozzle on your new Dorman has an O Ring installed on it before you place it inside the Intake.

* Buy new plugs

* Buy rebuilt injectors off eBay ($100)

1. Drain the radiator.
2. Remove the cold air intake and get all of that out of the way.
3. Start by removing vacuum hoses and labeling them. Replace them with NAPA hoses or something good and stout
4. Remove the throttle body cables (throttle) easy
5. Remove the EGR pipe on the drivers side going to the throttle body
6. Remove the throttle body (back screw requires the exact size socket and or extension.. lost a bunch of time on it) * Note, the throttle body does not need to be removed to remove the intake, but eventually you have to remove it to put it on the new unit. You could leave it installed and remove it once you get intake off.
7. Release tension on serpentine belt and remove it enough to take tension off alternator
8. At some point the Alternator has to come LOOSE so you can slide the intake out of the way, the intake will not come out unless you do this. You could do this at any point, even last step
9. Remove the coil packs (easy, one bolt, pull em out)
10. Remove the injectors (make sure you account for all of the O rings (one at the top, one on the bottom, you dont want these going into your engine)
11. Remove the screws for the intake, lift, remove intake.
12. I ended up dumping antifreeze into cylinder 1 bc of the intake holds coolant, so you might have to blow that out with air, fill up your engine holes with rags or paper towels so bolts dont fall inside, omg that happened to me and a magnet got it out, freaked me out
13. Install DORMAN and make sure you have a torque wrench capable of low torque specs (under 10ft)
14. Put everything back on, refill antifreeze.

I wouldn't pay anyone to do this... I would do it myself. Its not that bad. Its a back breaker because you have to almost lay on top of the motor. I put a huge blanket over the front of the truck and got a stool and got inside the truck.

Good luck
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  #68  
Old 03-28-2013, 01:05 PM
dmhuff92127 dmhuff92127 is offline
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@christophertemple- Thank you for taking the time to do this detailed write up. I bet you will get a lot more thanks from others as well. This is a tad bigger job than I would normally take on but going for it.

BTW- I did my coils and plugs 50k miles ago and the coil packs I got on ebay were GARBAGE. One by one they have been going out (2 because of the intake leak up front spraying coolant on them so they get a pass). I have slowly been replacing them with Accel brand which have been holding up well (even the ones near the ongoing intake leak). I am 1 away from replacing all of the ebay ones (shipped from china) with accel. Good luck with yours, I probably just got a bad batch.

Thanks again!
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  #69  
Old 04-02-2013, 11:28 AM
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Coil Packs

I've heard horror stories about eBay COPs but this seller is great so far... I thought I had issues with 2 COPs and he sent me two new ones without question... In 2 days.... I haven't had any issues with any of them and they are lifetime warranty

IGNITION COIL, CABIN AIR FILTER items in FreeShippingAutoParts store on eBay!
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  #70  
Old 07-11-2013, 02:20 AM
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Great write ups guys! I am in the middle of my own replacement using the Dorman parts. I have a few questions about the re-installation.

1) Are you supposed to use the (2) one piece factory gaskets that sit on top of the lower manifold or does the Dorman replacement just bolt directly up?

2) Does anyone recommend coating the surface with RTV or something along those lines?

3) Which fitting at the back needs to have the O-ring installed? Just want to make sure I don't miss this step.

4) I am also replacing my plugs and coils while doing this, in addition to cleaning my injectors; is any other work/preventative maintenance recommended?

Thanks guys!
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  #71  
Old 07-11-2013, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcdev View Post
Great write ups guys! I am in the middle of my own replacement using the Dorman parts. I have a few questions about the re-installation.

1) Are you supposed to use the (2) one piece factory gaskets that sit on top of the lower manifold or does the Dorman replacement just bolt directly up?

2) Does anyone recommend coating the surface with RTV or something along those lines?

3) Which fitting at the back needs to have the O-ring installed? Just want to make sure I don't miss this step.

4) I am also replacing my plugs and coils while doing this, in addition to cleaning my injectors; is any other work/preventative maintenance recommended?

Thanks guys!

1. Don't use any other gaskets than the Dorman.. The gaskets are built in
2. Don't use any sealant or anything else... Just clean the surface really good and use the Dorman.. They designed it that way.
3. There is a snap in piece of plastic on the Dorman that the main rubber air hose goes to that connects back to the passenger side.. It "T"s off to the PVC valve and the throttle body. That plastic snap in piece that comes in the box should have a small O Ring on it.. Mine was just laying in the box and I didn't realize it and caused me all kinds of hell to figure out my air leak.
4. I bought rebuilt injectors off eBay for like $100 and I have the eBay COP's and I've put about 10k miles on it since all of this and it runs great. I went ahead and replaced EVERY rubber and plastic hose on it while I was at it.. I just went to Napa and bought the right size hoses and adapters and just did it. I also wished I would have replaced the alternator because it went out on my not too long after I had it off. I also replaced the MAF sensor that's on the intake tube and the EGR valve, PVC valve... Hell, that is about everything!
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  #72  
Old 07-11-2013, 01:42 PM
christophertemple christophertemple is offline
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One more thing... by purchasing the Dorman on amazon.com and the injectors and COP's from eBay.. I saved over $500 compared to local parts stores...
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  #73  
Old 07-11-2013, 10:04 PM
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christophertemple, thanks for the reply and great advice. I am doing a lot of the same work that you did and the savings are huge. I don't even want to think what it would cost to have someone else do it... When I first bought this truck ten years ago, I asked one of the mechanics at Ford what it would cost to change the spark plugs. He told me, with a straight face, that they charge $100 per cylinder because the job was so labor intensive. I went home and changed them myself a few years later in about three hours taking my sweet time, for the price of some dielectric grease and new plugs.
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  #74  
Old 07-27-2013, 07:11 PM
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So I changed out the upper intake manifold, replaced the COPs. cleaned the injectors and was hoping to be in the process of flushing my radiator, but I have a vacuum leak now. I think its at the Dorman PCV connector, but I am not sure. The truck is not running well at all now. In fact, I can barely pull it out of the driveway; I have to gun it so it won't stall. Tried using intake cleaner to find the leak, but I am not having any luck... It sounds like it is coming from the back of the intake, and the only thing I can think of is the PCV connector. Any ideas?
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  #75  
Old 07-27-2013, 10:07 PM
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per CHristopher-------

3. There is a snap in piece of plastic on the Dorman that the main rubber air hose goes to that connects back to the passenger side.. It "T"s off to the PVC valve and the throttle body. That plastic snap in piece that comes in the box should have a small O Ring on it.. Mine was just laying in the box and I didn't realize it and caused me all kinds of hell to figure out my air leak.
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2002 SuperCrew 4 x 4 5.4 XLT -115K miles -NEW
2010 EDGE FWD - V6 ----------40,000 miles
2002 Explorer 4 x 4 4.0 XLT --- 162,000 miles
2001 SuperCrew 4 x 4 5.4 XLT -235K miles -GONE
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:07 PM
 
 
 
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