Following up on previous repair of coolant leak at crossover-intake manifold interface, I too now see that the plastic manifold housing has bulged out and cracked. I would like to try RTV fill and regular gasket rather than replacing entire manifold. Should I snap off the bulging, cracked plastic piece? Alternatively, should I fill within the entire encircling groove and behind the cracked portion. Any advice greatly appreciated.

 

I just took off my intake manifold on my 1999 5.4 f150. Two of my intake ports were not black and oily as the rest, they were clean and rusty. Does that indicate that indeed I need to replace my head gaskets? Thanks in advance.

 

So here it is, the coldest week we have had and I am going to have to do this same job OUTSIDE ? This terrific post explains the exact problem I am having and not looking forward to it. Other than this, my truck runs so well...You could not tell the difference in its run or start abilities from the day it was new...now 10 years ago ! I've just gotta fix it

Thanks for the great information

 

Is there any list of gaskets and o-rings I may need once I am into this project. It appears the weekends are the only option and of course the dealers are closed. It would be nice to have everything in advance....Thank you for the help....AL

 

i went to auto zone and bought the manifold gaskets. I think you only get two gaskets and they cost $40-50. for the pair. THE cross over needed two o-ring type gaskets, but my o-ring grooves were destroyed. I had to fill the groove with epoxy, file smooth and use RTV and paper type gasket like you did in the 70s. THe o-rings did not come with the manifold gskets. The two manifold gaskets is all i used.

 

Just a little hint that may save somebody some grief ......
As soon as you get the intake manifold off it's a good idea to stuff paper towel or rags into the intake ports so nothing can fall into them.
I also always check each port before putting the intake on to make sure nothing has fallen into it.
I've seen engines destroyed when this happened.

 

yes, Racer is right. I actually have two small plywood strips with a couple boltl holes in each to hold them in place where the gasket sets. covers all the ports. When you wire brush or clean the gasket face, do it one at a time and double check nothing goes into the holes !

 

Thanks for the information guys...The engine has 242,000 mi and has shown no signs of giving up other than an occasion #2 coil issue. Of course, this may be why. I 'd hate to see the truck go so aside from the replacement dollars I don't have, I am best to fix the problem. I was un aware that Auto zone has these parts...I am on my way. Just wish it would get above 32 degrees for a day or so

 

I just bought a new manifold kit for my '00 expedition 5.4 with gaskets,thermostat,and of course a new manifold from amazon.com.It was a Dorman brand and it was 160.00,shipped free-no tax.Came in 4 days ups.I am taking it apart and I need any tricks as to how to get the manifold bolts out without snapping them off in the heads.Any tricks?

 

intake manifold bolts are clean and should come right out no problme. THE exhaust manifold bolts take a beating and sometime come out tough or break.... I had no problems at all with intakes.

 

Thanks so much for this article, but especially for the idea to fill the o-ring groove and install a flat gasket. I'm not sure I would have thought of that myself. After seeing this wonderfully engineered failure point for myself, I shouldn't be surprised if many owners face this repair. Only other option would be manifold replacement $$$$

 

Steve... what did you use to fill in the o-ring groove? Is it still holding up?

 

I had considered using something like liquid steel or JB weld.. but finally decided on a two part expoxy glue. YOu mix parts A and B in equal amounts. I bought it at Menards lumber yard i think.. I was like two 4 oz bottles, not tubes. I thought the epoxy would be closer in material properties to the plastic manifold than the JB weld type stuff.. I used a small die grinder to roughen up the groove inside and clean out any broken parts. I took duct tape and made a "dam" around the ID and OD of that port and poured the expoxy in till it came up over the final level i wanted by 1/32 inch. LEt it set a day and dry, then filed it flat with a big file. Make sure you get it flat and dont roll off the edges. I made my own gaskets from "gasket material" i bought at Auto Zone, just like the old thermostat gasket material. Put a little permatex or RTV on the gasket as sealer just like you did 20 years ago before all these o-ring seals became standard.

 

yea its been 19-20 months since the repairs. Probably 25-30k miles and all is well.

 

Thanks for the detail, it looks like I will have to repair both the right side and the left side around the thermostat. The left side was not leaking but the o-ring slot is starting to crack just like the other side. I have heard of this old-timey make your own paper gasket myth but have not done it myself. We'll see how it works. lol.