best u-joints out there?
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The greasable joints are the weakest. If you want strong, get non-greasable, everyone will tell you that.
Also, as soon as you strengthen the weakest link, you'll find the next week link. Could be the part the joint goes in, could be the pinion, could be the driveshaft (I've twisted my oem shaft.)
I'd say you're getting poor quality joints. Just get Precision or Spicer and you should be fine, unless you drive the truck through deep water and or very dusty/dirty conditions all the time.
Also, as soon as you strengthen the weakest link, you'll find the next week link. Could be the part the joint goes in, could be the pinion, could be the driveshaft (I've twisted my oem shaft.)
I'd say you're getting poor quality joints. Just get Precision or Spicer and you should be fine, unless you drive the truck through deep water and or very dusty/dirty conditions all the time.
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'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
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The non-greasable joints do not have a hole drilled through the cross as a path for the grease to get to the needle bearings. The smaller the hole the stronger the joint. No hole = strongest
If you really want a bullet-proof u-joint get them from CTM.
These u-joints will require machining of the yoke ears of stock shafts to allow the snap-rings to fit....then the yoke becomes the weak point IMO.
Pictures stolen from pirate 4x4 website.
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If you really want a bullet-proof u-joint get them from CTM.
These u-joints will require machining of the yoke ears of stock shafts to allow the snap-rings to fit....then the yoke becomes the weak point IMO.
Pictures stolen from pirate 4x4 website.
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