Cab and box swap
#1
Cab and box swap
I know that this information is somewhere in this forum. I've searched and couldn't find detailed information. I have a 1976 F250 4x4 wo/AC (highboy). The front cab mounts are gone and the bed floor has holes in it. The gap between the fenders and cab makes it look like the frame is bent. I just purchased a 1979 F150 4x2 w/AC that is from Texas. No rust, just a few dents. The plan is to swap the cab and box and maybe the fenders. I know the cab will bolt up and the box will need holes drilled because of the frame width. The AC will be removed and I will use the standard heater plenum from the F250. The steering column might need some modification. Now my question is about the fuel tank behind the seat in the F250. It looks like I will have to weld some studs on the back wall of the cab on the F150 to bolt the fuel tank to. Also a hole would have to be drilled through the outside of the cab for the filler neck. Has anyone put a behind the seat fuel tank in a 1/2 ton? I believe only the 3/4 tons had this type of fuel tank. The lifting of the cab and box will not be a problem as it will be done in a shop with a hoist. Did I forget anything? To me everything seems straightforward except for the fuel tank. I know that the F150 rear tank will not fit between the F250 frame rails. Thank you for any help.
#2
If you're looking for another option the Bronco II fuel tank fits between the highboys narrower frame.
#3
The cab won't bolt up.You have to drill new rear cab mount holes too. There are two reinforced access holes in the upper sheet metal above the proper highboy holes.
The A/C cab has a HUGE hole in the firewall that you're going to have to deal with one way or another when converting to non A/C.
I just did what you're doing and I had to cut the non A/C firewall out of the old cab and rivet and seal it to the A/C cab. My reference point was the lower left corner, as you're looking at the firewall from the front. (I'm going to go back and weld it eventually. When I paint the truck.)
There are two almost right angle bracket that the gas tank bolts to inside the cab, but do yourself a favor and put it in the back like I'm doing. It's almost as easy as putting it in the cab, and you won't have to drill any more holes in your cab, smell noxious gas fumes, or risk the possibility of being incinerated. Super Camper Special and Ranger tanks fit between the rails, right behind the rear end. There is a thread on the Ranger tank install. It's nice work. I'll look it up for you later. Dinner Time!
The SCS is easier but it's harder to get the tank.
You probably will have to use a mix of parts between your two steeering columns, like I did. My two were down to their individual pieces to get it to work. But no fabbing needed.
The A/C cab has a HUGE hole in the firewall that you're going to have to deal with one way or another when converting to non A/C.
I just did what you're doing and I had to cut the non A/C firewall out of the old cab and rivet and seal it to the A/C cab. My reference point was the lower left corner, as you're looking at the firewall from the front. (I'm going to go back and weld it eventually. When I paint the truck.)
There are two almost right angle bracket that the gas tank bolts to inside the cab, but do yourself a favor and put it in the back like I'm doing. It's almost as easy as putting it in the cab, and you won't have to drill any more holes in your cab, smell noxious gas fumes, or risk the possibility of being incinerated. Super Camper Special and Ranger tanks fit between the rails, right behind the rear end. There is a thread on the Ranger tank install. It's nice work. I'll look it up for you later. Dinner Time!
The SCS is easier but it's harder to get the tank.
You probably will have to use a mix of parts between your two steeering columns, like I did. My two were down to their individual pieces to get it to work. But no fabbing needed.
#5
The Bronco II tank is easy, also if you want instead of drilling new holes in the cab for the mounts you can also use a knock out and put holes in the cross member of the frame and bolt it there. That is how I did mine because the mounts that are rivited to the outside of the frame were not that great. When I lifted my cab I lifted cab and clip in 1 piece. I added a few pic's in my gallery of the mounts in the cross member. Good Luck
#6
Thanks guys for all of the information. This looks to be more than a weekend project. I did plan to use part of the old firewall to replace the AC box. As for the fuel tank, I've had other trucks with the tank behind the seat and never any problems with gas fumes. Besides, my dual exhaust system runs over the rear axle and between the frame rails where the rear tank would fit. Well, the main thing is to first swap the cab and front clip. The fuel tank will be dealt with later. With the box off, It will be easier to reroute the exhaust system and fit in a fuel tank. That would more than likely be the safer choice. This is a great forum with people willing to help out with other options. Early research on a new project is better than jumping in and then scratching ones head for a solution. Thanks again.
#7
It's armstrongfordtrucks that has the how to on the Bronco II tank install. Check it out in his gallery.
And now that you mention it, my truck had a dual exhaust that exited under the rear bumper and after hooking a trailer up to it a couple of times, I understand why Ford exits theirs on the side. You get seriously gassed when you're there loading a trailer or the bed and you smell like exhaust fumes for hours.
So you'll want to move your exhaust anyway if it exits under the bumper. I put headers on mine so I had to scrap my exhaust for that reason, but I was going to modify it to exit in front of the rear tires regardless, for those other two reasons, getting gassed and to put a SCS tank in.
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