I had the same problem with my 86. It had been setting up for about 6 months. It turned out to be the schrader valve on the side of the fuel filter was bad, not leaking fuel just cracking open enough when dead to let in air. I replaced it, it starts like a gem every time now.
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86 F250 4x4 single cab 6.9 idi, C6 tranny
Thanks for the replies. Is the schrader valve the thing that looks like a valve stem?
I finally got some time to tear into the truck a bit today. After I got the truck running, I could turn the engine off and hear the distinct sound of air bubbles. It was really hard to pinpoint, so I started with what I thought was the culprit. The rubber line near the back of the engine that goes from the metal return line down to the hard plastic return line under the truck. I was able to turn the line by hand... so I guess the hose was hard and brittle and the clamp wasnt doing it's job. I put some new line in there with some proper clamps. After that, the bubble sound moved to a different location.
It started looking around with a flashlight and noticed a pool of diesel collection on the front passenger side of the engine, down in the intake manifold area. I blotted everything up with a towel, turn the engine on and watched all the lines with a flash light. Turns out the cloth line leading from the fuel fitler to the injector right below it was gushing fuel! I can't believe I missed that. Also, after running the engine and watching it for about 20 minutes, 2 other cloth lines were soaking wet with fuel. I swear I checked those before and the lines look clean... Meaning they havent attracted any dust, so that's a mystery to me. Anyway, I am going to replace those cloth lines and see if the bubble sound goes away. I think while I have the whole thing tore apart, I might as well replace everything so I am not guessing how old all the o rings and line are. Is there a kit available from somewhere that has all the o rings, cloth lines, hoses, clamps, etc? I'll search around the forum in the mean time.
Thanks!
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-16V Johnny
86' Ford F250 Diesel
10' Ford Escape
00' VW Jetta Turbo Diesel
94' VW Jetta Gasser
sorry. you could tell me those glow plugs were gold plated, and you were also going to give me $50 for each one i put in.
you know what??
it will still be a cold day in hell before i ever put anything but a MOTORCRAFT/ BERU glow plug in any of my trucks. the first set lasted 16 years.
that and the fact that ford and international ONLY use the beru, i think i will stick with them
I have to agree with tjc. Ive heard waaay to many horror storys about autolite plugs. Everyone on here says motorcraft/beru is the way to go, and im sure theirs a reason behind it.
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1993 F-250HD 7.3L IDI E4OD
I'm gonna sign my name in that diesel smoke and let the ones that come along behind me choke!
Fuel return line kit on ebay is about 30 bucks. That's where I bought mine. Comes with injector caps, orings, lines clamps etccc. Pretty easy to install also. Well worth the money. Good luck. Oh, and shrader valve is the valve on the side of the fuel filter mount that looks like a tire air valve. Change it and put a good metal sealing cap on it, it's worth the money also, couple of bucks.
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86 F250 4x4 single cab 6.9 idi, C6 tranny
and my gp's are bosch, haven't had any problems out of them. I do have them hooked up manual though. don't trust that controler thingamajigy! It bunt up my last ones!
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86 F250 4x4 single cab 6.9 idi, C6 tranny
The 83 thru 86 controller fails in the on position 70% of the time.
16Vjohn,
If you move the return tees, you need to replace the O rings under them.
The hot fuel going through the return line makes them just hard enough that they will not reseal when distrubed.
Air leaks in, breaks the vacuum holding the fuel up higher than the fuel tank.
Once the vacuum is broken, the fuel returns to the tank.
So when you start the engine, when the air reaches the IP the engine stops.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
I have to agree with tjc. Ive heard waaay to many horror storys about autolite plugs. Everyone on here says motorcraft/beru is the way to go, and im sure theirs a reason behind it.
the reason is a very,very,very good one.
the motorcraft plugs do not swell/expand when they heat up.
other brand plugs do.when the glow part-that sticks down in the pre-combustion chamber expand,they can brake off in the head causing VERY serious engine damage.if your lucky it seems,it doesn't clean out a piston,but you need to have it extracted or do it yourself.
this means the head needs to come off.for you guys with turbos this is an even more extremely extensive repair,so much so,that it appears its easier to just remove that 1k+ motor first!
yeah........im with you.im sticking with beru too!
ps,
now all we need,is for them to upgrade our 7.3l ZD-9's to some of these! type GE, type GN
i wounder if we could update our gp controllers to run these?
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1993 F250 Heavy Duty 4x4 XLT, regular cab, two tone with red interior, 444CID/IDI/NA International Diesel, E40D auto, 1356 BW manual shift TC, Dana 50 TTB front/Ford-Sterling 10.25 2nd-gen full floater rear with 3.55:1 gears.That's stock.See my garage for mods. 47k original miles. Carfax clean w/last OR 29,200 in '06. Not yet on the road. Brand-new to me.
♠ Real Trucks Don't Have Spark Plugs.♠
I'll get a kit off ebay right now, thanks for that. I'm sure the cloth line leading to the fuel filter is the culprit, but I might as well replace everything while I am at it. I'll report back in a few days.
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-16V Johnny
86' Ford F250 Diesel
10' Ford Escape
00' VW Jetta Turbo Diesel
94' VW Jetta Gasser
When you do anything to the return lines, do them all and be done with it.
If you change part of it, you disturb the rest enough that it will be leaking usually within a week or less.
So then you chase leaks around the engine forever.
If you change them all and make a consious effort to not disturb the return lines after that, you should be good for years.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
I'll get a kit off ebay right now, thanks for that. I'm sure the cloth line leading to the fuel filter is the culprit, but I might as well replace everything while I am at it. I'll report back in a few days.
1993 F250 Heavy Duty 4x4 XLT, regular cab, two tone with red interior, 444CID/IDI/NA International Diesel, E40D auto, 1356 BW manual shift TC, Dana 50 TTB front/Ford-Sterling 10.25 2nd-gen full floater rear with 3.55:1 gears.That's stock.See my garage for mods. 47k original miles. Carfax clean w/last OR 29,200 in '06. Not yet on the road. Brand-new to me.
♠ Real Trucks Don't Have Spark Plugs.♠
Check out this website: https://www.real4wd.com/B1WebTools/c...spx?PartNo=007 These are your revered BERU plugs that are self regulating and non swelling. $21.15 each. They are cataloged for a HUMMVEE. They fit the 6.9/7.3. Try it if you don't beleive me.
do not run an electric and mechanical pump together!!!! it could blow the diaphram in the mechanical and fill your motor with fuel.if you want to use an electrical delete the mechanical pump.
It’s obvivous that you don’t understand how your fuel works. If you were to put the electric fuel pump before the mech one, its diaphragm would see the pressure of the electric and remain extended. The lost motion link would simply idle along doing nothing because all of the necessary pressure would be supplied by the EP. If you wer to install the EP after the MP, the MP would push fuel through the EP. It is true that the EP would add its pressure to the MP, but the IP can handle it. Any excess pressure would simply blow through the IP. The beauty of an EP is it will pump when the engine is not spinning, saving wear and tear on the starter motor.
My ebay kit shipped today. I got it from a seller called "dieselcare" and they were great. Looks like it was $24.00 shipped... Not bad, considering I didn't have the leave the house to get it.
About the electric pump... I would just assume keeping the fuel system in working order so as not to need an electric pump, but that's good input Marianna.
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-16V Johnny
86' Ford F250 Diesel
10' Ford Escape
00' VW Jetta Turbo Diesel
94' VW Jetta Gasser
When a mechanical lift pump fails, what usually happens?
The answer is the diaphragm ruptures.
Now tell me what separates the fuel chamber from the crank case in a mechanical lift pump?
Answer the diaphragm.
So you are driving down the road in the stock truck and the fuel pump diaphragm ruptures, and the engine stops.
Now you are driving down the road in a truck with an electric fuel pump located before the stock lift pump and the diaphragm ruptures.
If the rupture is small, the electric pump will still get enough fuel to the injection pump for the engine to run.
But the whole time fuel is also spraying through the small rupture into the crank case.
Next thing you know, oil pressure drops to 0 and fuel is getting sucked into the intake through the CDR and the engine hydro locks.
So now you have trashed every bearing in the engine and bent several connecting rods and the crank.
I have tried to say this nice before, but if you run an electric pump and the stock lift pump you are crazy.
I had to bite my fingers.
It's obvious you don't understand the consequences of what you are advising, repeatedly.
If you want to take that chance with your engine, more power to you.
But knowing what I do, I can't sit here and watch someone tell someone else how to trash a very expensive to replace motor.
And if you know much about the Stanadyne injection pump than you obviously know that the fuel pressure inside the pump housing affects the timing.
So yes the IP can handle the pressure, but where your timing may be is anyones guess.
And yes, if you run enough pressure into the IP, it don't take long before the volume of fuel going in exceeds the amount the return line can handle without changing the housing pressure and changing the timing.
If you want to run and electric lift pump, fine, remove the stock pump and run the electric pump.
If you want to run the stock lift pump, also fine.
But running both together is asking for trouble, lots of trouble unless you have money to burn.
Most likely if you are driving a truck that is at least 15 or more years old, you don't have money to burn.
How many problems have I read here with non Motorcraft glow plugs?
Plenty of how do I get them out out the hole, plenty of they only worked once or twice before they burnt out.
Don't know about where you are, but here most parts places have a sign that says "No returns on electrical parts".
So even if I take the time to open, test heat and then install the ones that don't fail on the first heat cycle, what am I going to do with the ones that burn up on the first cycle?
I can't take them back and get money back or more that may or may not fail.
Why make things harder than they have to be?
Just get the Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs, install them and don't worry for several years.
Sorry, I know this post is not very nice, but the final version is a lot nicer than it started out being.
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86 F250 HD 6.9 IDI ATS turbo "not exactly" stock 4x4 T19 BW1345 3.55LS both ends D60 front, 10.25" Sterling rear, ram air, dual stacks.
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