1961 - 1963 F100 Unibody1961, 1962 and 1963 Ford F100 Unibody trucks
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I'll take a shot at this. A mustang II is a unibody car with a crossmember based suspension. You definitely do not want to clip that on like welding the two frames together if that's what you meant. So yes it must be saddled. The stock crossmember and actually the stock wheel track is around 2" too narrow.
If you want a mustang II you almost have to purchase an aftermarket crossmember, a rack extension, and larger brakes. For this reason it really isn't preferred anymore. The aerostar, dakota, crown vic, etc.. are all basicly a weld in deal with only junkyard parts, being much cheaper. These are bigger v8 vehicles, sturdier parts and also quite common installs. Also don't rule out a frame swap. If you can weld, move a few body mounts and be a lot farther along. Use the search function.
The Mustang II crossmember would be $350+, Brake upgrade $250+, plus the used pinto based parts if you can find them would at least add on another $100. So you'd be out $700+ just getting the suspension installed, still need brake lines, master cylinder, power steering pump, steering linkage, and a new column. Lets not even consider tubular arms here.
After all that, just do some searches. No Limit engineering makes a decent video (although outdated) that is very informative and gives a lot more tricks than you'll pick up reading articles. It cost like $40 but since you'll be out quite a bit anyway, it would be helpful.
Of course everyone has their opinions and there are many options. I personally like the Dakota option for the economics and it is sturdy enough to handle the weight of our trucks. After much research I went with the No Limit wide ride for my 63 Unibody. Very nice and straight forward install.
Ok, so I looked the No Limit packages, as I figured there way out of my price range. Right now im not looking to ground up restore my truck, not yet anyway. But the dakota option sounds good. Ok I looked a the pics on photobucket. How do I determine where to start my measurements, and is there a certain year dakota that is best, or will any one work?
I do a lot of research. Just remember that some had 6-lug but they can be converted back to 5. Rotors off a 85-92 dodge ram fit properly using the same bearings as the Dakota rotors , rotors from pre 85 have a different outer bearing. The rotors from the ram are larger diameter and thicker. meaning that Calipers and brackets(know for sure that 85-88 brackets) will work from the same year model ram are needed and will bolt right to the Dakota spindles
I picked up this list somewhere and it lists part numbers. These would all be Dakota I assume.
Upper Controll arms
Right -52059040 Used from 1986-1996
Left -52059041 Used from 1986-1996
Lower Controll arms
Right -52057968 Used from 1981-1997
Left -52057969 Used from 1981-1997
-2808394 Used from 1951-2003
-03837088AC Used from 1951-2003
Right -52058414 Used from 1986-1990
Left -52058415 Used from 1986-1990
Steering Knuckle to Tie rod Adapter
Right -4322352 Used from 1986-1990
Left -4322353 Used from 1986-1990
Upper Controll Arm Alignment Pivot Bolts
-3815473 Used from 1975-1996
Pivot Bolts Nuts
-06036048AA Used from 1977-2004
Upper Balljoint Grease Boot
-52006405 Used from 1967-2010
Lower Balljoint Grease Boot
-52006404 Used from 1967-2010
Lower Suspension Bump Stop
-4322579 Used from 1986-1992
-R0400110 Used from 1986-1989
-R0400210 Used from 1986-2000
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