Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks > 1961 - 1963 F100 Unibody
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1961 - 1963 F100 Unibody 1961, 1962 and 1963 Ford F100 Unibody trucks

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 09-08-2009, 04:32 PM
61 rust pile 61 rust pile is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Nowhere, Texas
Posts: 8
61 rust pile is starting off with a positive reputation.
61 unibody front end swap

Does anyonw have any info on 61 front end swap? Mustang 2 front end? To clip it vs just saddling it? Any info would help greatly.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-08-2009, 08:17 PM
dusty64f100 dusty64f100 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: valliant
Posts: 90
dusty64f100 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I'll take a shot at this. A mustang II is a unibody car with a crossmember based suspension. You definitely do not want to clip that on like welding the two frames together if that's what you meant. So yes it must be saddled. The stock crossmember and actually the stock wheel track is around 2" too narrow.

If you want a mustang II you almost have to purchase an aftermarket crossmember, a rack extension, and larger brakes. For this reason it really isn't preferred anymore. The aerostar, dakota, crown vic, etc.. are all basicly a weld in deal with only junkyard parts, being much cheaper. These are bigger v8 vehicles, sturdier parts and also quite common installs. Also don't rule out a frame swap. If you can weld, move a few body mounts and be a lot farther along. Use the search function.

The Mustang II crossmember would be $350+, Brake upgrade $250+, plus the used pinto based parts if you can find them would at least add on another $100. So you'd be out $700+ just getting the suspension installed, still need brake lines, master cylinder, power steering pump, steering linkage, and a new column. Lets not even consider tubular arms here.

After all that, just do some searches. No Limit engineering makes a decent video (although outdated) that is very informative and gives a lot more tricks than you'll pick up reading articles. It cost like $40 but since you'll be out quite a bit anyway, it would be helpful.

Anything I didn't mention?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-08-2009, 08:29 PM
unibodyslick unibodyslick is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 79
unibodyslick is starting off with a positive reputation.
Of course everyone has their opinions and there are many options. I personally like the Dakota option for the economics and it is sturdy enough to handle the weight of our trucks. After much research I went with the No Limit wide ride for my 63 Unibody. Very nice and straight forward install.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-08-2009, 09:52 PM
dusty64f100 dusty64f100 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: valliant
Posts: 90
dusty64f100 is starting off with a positive reputation.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z574qFQGoE
That should at least give you some idea. Same basic install. Also form what I've gathered, a dakota is almost the exact same setup although stronger components and if I'm not mistaken the only option that leaves you with a stock truck bolt pattern? Most of the others convert to ford car wheels.
http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0Swap/?start=0
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-08-2009, 11:10 PM
61 rust pile 61 rust pile is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Nowhere, Texas
Posts: 8
61 rust pile is starting off with a positive reputation.
61 front end swap

Ok, so I looked the No Limit packages, as I figured there way out of my price range. Right now im not looking to ground up restore my truck, not yet anyway. But the dakota option sounds good. Ok I looked a the pics on photobucket. How do I determine where to start my measurements, and is there a certain year dakota that is best, or will any one work?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-09-2009, 11:03 AM
dusty64f100 dusty64f100 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: valliant
Posts: 90
dusty64f100 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Wouldn't hurt to read this http://www.cyberranch.org/ifs.html dakota is slightly lower than middle of the page.

more pictures http://www.purpleflyingmonkey.com/19...framefile.html

Also http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/ is the preferred dakota kit manufacturer.

I do a lot of research. Just remember that some had 6-lug but they can be converted back to 5. Rotors off a 85-92 dodge ram fit properly using the same bearings as the Dakota rotors , rotors from pre 85 have a different outer bearing. The rotors from the ram are larger diameter and thicker. meaning that Calipers and brackets(know for sure that 85-88 brackets) will work from the same year model ram are needed and will bolt right to the Dakota spindles

I picked up this list somewhere and it lists part numbers. These would all be Dakota I assume.

Upper Controll arms
Right -52059040 Used from 1986-1996
Left -52059041 Used from 1986-1996

Lower Controll arms
Right -52057968 Used from 1981-1997
Left -52057969 Used from 1981-1997

Upper Balljoints
-2808394 Used from 1951-2003

Lower Balljoints
-03837088AC Used from 1951-2003

Steering Knuckle
Right -52058414 Used from 1986-1990
Left -52058415 Used from 1986-1990

Steering Knuckle to Tie rod Adapter
Right -4322352 Used from 1986-1990
Left -4322353 Used from 1986-1990

Upper Controll Arm Alignment Pivot Bolts
-3815473 Used from 1975-1996
Pivot Bolts Nuts
-06036048AA Used from 1977-2004

Upper Balljoint Grease Boot
-52006405 Used from 1967-2010
Lower Balljoint Grease Boot
-52006404 Used from 1967-2010

Lower Suspension Bump Stop
-4322579 Used from 1986-1992

Steering Rack
-R0400110 Used from 1986-1989
-R0400210 Used from 1986-2000
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-09-2009, 04:17 PM
61 rust pile 61 rust pile is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Nowhere, Texas
Posts: 8
61 rust pile is starting off with a positive reputation.
All the pics and info will help tremendously. Now all I have to do is the actual work. But hey, thats the easy part right. Thanks again, you guys have been a huge help.
Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2009, 04:17 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks > 1961 - 1963 F100 Unibody

Tags
1966, 61, 66, aerostar, crown, end, ford, front, lowering, mustang, pickup, pickups, suspension, swap, truck, unibody, victoria

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup