Did you save the "range box" for future uses? Doublers are a real nice way to gain some additional low range.
Yep, I kept the range box, but as you can see, the diff. is no more.
The driveline guy at the shop that extended my rear drive shaft said that it is not uncommon for 203s converted to part time to explode like this because the diff usually gets most of it's lubrication from the fact that the front shaft is turning all the time, and as soon as you install locking hubs - no lube. He said you should lock the hubs on these for a while every time you fill up with gas, just to ensure lubrication. Wish I had known that before I sprinkled it all over rhe hi-way. LOL. Actually, it worked out for the best. I went from a C6 and NP205 to a T-18 and NP 205. It's much happier now, and so am I.
__________________
Rick
"I'm not locked in here with you. You're locked in here with ME! " -Rorschach
Your driveline guy was correct with what he stated. Another contributing factor is the type of oil used. Far more 203's are failed because regular gear oil is used. This gear oil wont pass through the smaller oil holes and often do not feed the bearings. Often the same problem is common. The reservior cant be filled and the thing starves for oil.
Better of with the 205, and when you upgrade to a doubler, you will be twice as happy.
Get it, doubler,,,,,twice as happy? Errrr, tough room.........
Poor attempt at humor, lol.
Wow that thing blew up for sure! I just threw a coat of paint on the NP435, while I am waiting for it to dry I had some more questions. Forgive me if some of these seem a bit silly but I've never done this ind of a project before.
I was wondering what this thing is and how it goes together.
These next three pictures, I'm assuming that these are to shift the transfer case.
My concern is that the Np435 doesn't have a spot for this mechanism to mount up like the SROD does. Also, is it easier to put the whole thing in all at once, bellhousing, transmission, Tcase, or put those on individually one after the other?
The first pic is of a clutch "fork" and realease "throw-out" bearing. It hangs out the side of the bellhousing of a standard clutch set up and when you step on the clutch, you push the small end back and it pivots on the point where those rivets are, which pushes the t/o bearing against the " fingers" on the pressure plate, disengaging the clutch. The next is, as you surmised the transfercase shifter, although not the type I am familiar with. The next one looks to me like part of a window regulator. And the last is t-case shifter again. "Easier" depends on how you are going to lift them. If you have access to a tranny jack, it might be easier to do it in one piece. If you are going to do it by hand, or with a floor jack, you should probably do them separately.
__________________
Rick
"I'm not locked in here with you. You're locked in here with ME! " -Rorschach
The first pic is of a clutch "fork" and realease "throw-out" bearing. It hangs out the side of the bellhousing of a standard clutch set up and when you step on the clutch, you push the small end back and it pivots on the point where those rivets are, which pushes the t/o bearing against the " fingers" on the pressure plate, disengaging the clutch. The next is, as you surmised the transfercase shifter, although not the type I am familiar with. The next one looks to me like part of a window regulator. And the last is t-case shifter again. "Easier" depends on how you are going to lift them. If you have access to a tranny jack, it might be easier to do it in one piece. If you are going to do it by hand, or with a floor jack, you should probably do them separately.
I've only got a floor jack I've gotta figure out what to do with the Tcase shifter. That rod looked like it might fit onto the Tcase but 'm not sure & the driver side window did have an extreme amount of trouble rolling up and down (crank window). The tranny and Tcase were out of the truck when I bought it and I haven't found any other hardware or linkage hanging around in there.
You might be best to go to a wrecking yard to get the transfer case linkage and such so you can get all the parts you need at once along with seeing how it goes together. As for putting in the trans and transfer case, you may want to do them seperately since you only have the floor jack. It will be easier to maneuver the transmission to bolt it up.
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"A man does what he must - in spite of personal consequences, in spite of obstacles and dangers and pressures - and that is the basis of all human morality."
Your transfer case lever appears to be mounted on a bracket that bolts up to the back of the trans. You can use the same bracket on your new trans if this is the adapter you intend to use.
As I recall the aluminum adapters do not have a cast in boss for the pivot like the iron units do. Bolt it up the same way it comes off of the trans / adapter and bolt it up to the new set up. Should be easy.
That window regulator arm looking thing might just be the linkage that connects the shifter to the transfer case. Might also work for your pass window, lol.
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I've gotta figure out what to do with the Tcase shifter. That rod looked like it might fit onto the Tcase but 'm not sure & the driver side window did have an extreme amount of trouble rolling up and down (crank window). The tranny and Tcase were out of the truck when I bought it and I haven't found any other hardware or linkage hanging around in there.
