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Old 11-12-2014, 01:35 PM
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Power Window, Door Lock, Mirriors Not working?

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Old 09-03-2009, 10:25 PM
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Question Power Window, Door Lock, Mirriors Not working?

I have a 1994 Ford F150. The problem just started today. I had to adjust my door hinge "driver side" and fix the prndl adjuster and now Windows, door lock, mirrors are not working. They are all getting power at the switches, fuses and relays are all good but nothing is working. I used a test light and touched one of the wires for the mirror and got it to move??? I'm stumped, please help
 
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:27 AM
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Check the ground wire
 
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:33 AM
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lost power to windows etc

it sounds like you unplugged a connector or pinched a wire when you adjusted the hinge. Have you checked your fuse panel to see it you blew a fuse. What did you remove to adjust the hinge? the main control for all the windows, locks, and mirrows is in the driver side door.
 
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Old 09-04-2009, 02:57 PM
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I had a buddy hold the door while I removed the two pins, and I adjusted the top hinge. Is there a main ground somewhere? The switch has power, I know I screwed something up but I don't know where. The fuses are all good
 
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:50 PM
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pwr drs windows not working

typically the ground wire or negative is black. but to me it sounds like something got unplugged or pulled loose while your buddy was holding the door. there should be a bundle of wires inside a corrugated rubber or plastic hose between the door edge and truck body. was this cut or pulled loose at one end when your buddy was holding the door? them doors are heavy. What kind of tester did you use to show you had voltage and where did you measure the voltage? your tester should show about 12.5 to 13.5 volts to ground. you would also need to measure voltage at the door switch. have you removed the switch from the door? there are about 3 to 5 tabsyou need to push to remove the switch assembly. you need some sort of thin blade about 1/2 inch wide and a very small screw driver like 1/8 inch wide at tip or eye glass size. use the thin blade to pry between the switch cover and door trim. the switch should lift a little. look along the gap and you sohld see a small notch or tab you push with the small screw driver. its kind of tricky and you will need to keep upward pressure on the switch as you release the tabs. releasing the others is the tricky part as they tend to snap back in while you are trying to release another. I usually use my finger nails to pull up as I work my way around the switch releasing the tabs. the swich should pull out just enough to get to the terminals to check for voltage.
 
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Old 09-07-2009, 01:01 AM
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The ground connection is behind the kick panel, below the dash. It is a common ground for everything you are having problems with. If you checked the power at the switch and ground on the door, you will get a reading, but the ground wire for the 3 systems appears to be disconnected from the body.
 
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Old 09-08-2009, 03:03 PM
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Thumbs up Fixed!!!

Thank you for all of your replies, I really appreciate it. I ended up running a new ground. The original ground behind the kick plate was fine? So I got sick of looking, so I just added a new ground. Thanks again guys
 
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Old 09-08-2009, 07:15 PM
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Just out of curiosity where did you run and connect the new ground and what kind of wire did you use? too stiff it may eventually work harden and break , too small may make your motor run slow or the wire get hot.
 
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:47 PM
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Ground

I believe it was about a 12 gauge maybe 14 "stranded. When I first put it on I tested it for about 2 min. didn''t seem to get hot. It seems to run the same a before.
 
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:58 PM
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did you run it inside the same loom or protective boot as the original? I have had problems crop back up sooner than necessary by not doing like the original. but then again i have changed the original and eliminated a problem. as my old buddy the failure analysis expert says "the correct answer is depends"
 
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